Thanks, this DIY post was helpful with my first oil change. A couple of things I noticed:

- I was surprised how quickly the oil started to leak out once I loosened the plug. It was almost instantaneous once I broke the seal. In my former vehicles, I would need to loosen the bolt significantly before oil would come streaming out. It made it difficult removing the plug with an allan wrench w/ a small stream of oil coming out.

- Based on the DIY, I used 7.25 Qts of oil. That resulted in a little less than one-half on the oil level gauge. I added another .25 and it fluctuates from .5 to .75 depending on level of acceleration.

- I lost one of the rubber grommets when I lifted the engine cover off. Three of them came off. Seems they pop off fairly easily. The cover comes off easily so pull it slowly and perhaps the grommets won't fly off. Not sure it's avoidable.

 

Glad it helped.

I haven't noticed my change under acceleration, but I have noticed that after a few days (maybe 100 miles) it fell to the 3rd segment which is where it ran for the first 5k. It's now dropped to the 2nd segment (half) with about 1500 miles before the next change.

Yeah Greg mentioned that previously in another thread either here or on RL, sorry I didn't think to mention it. After the first time I haven't had any pop out of the cover (and in that case it stayed on the post so was easy to retrieve). For me I've found pulling as straight up from the middle (on the sides) in a quick motion seems to have the best success.

 

Interesting. My gauge fluctuates from 2.8 to 3.7 depending on how hard I accelerate. I thought it was because the filter wasn't seated properly but I checked last night and it was locked in. I guess as long as it stays within the level limits it's ok.

 

Are you talking about the Oil Level or Oil Pressure? It is normal for the pressure to fluctuate some (mine (and the 996 too) runs high until it warms up, then it will drop and then fluctuate a bit based on driving). The level on the other hand should be pretty stable while you are driving unless there is a serious issue.

 

Yep, you are correct. I was confusing pressure with level. The oil level is at 2/3 with 7.5 quarts.

 

Just an FYI that I was poking around PIWIS looking at something else and found that it looks like they've done a wholesale "update" to the documents in January.

I've already pulled the OCI (5+10k), Intermediate (20k), and Maintenance (40k) docs and other than a bit of formatting I see no changes. I expect that there aren't any changes in the oil change procedure, but I have to boot up Windows to check (images aren't visible in Safari/Firefox ). I'll pull it in the next day or so though since I finally have it back and it's time for the 10k.

 

I am getting ready to do my 10K myself as my dealer is 2.5 hours away and I am having some issues trying to communicate with them. I am not going to worry about the fuel filter at this time since I buy quality diesel and use Power Service.

The first time that I changed the oil I just used my oil extractor. This time I plan to do an actual drain. In the beginning post on the DIY the Gnat does not mention turning off the PASM prior to lifting the car. Maybe a warning for people in the DIY post for those with PASM could save some misery. Thanks for all the information in this thread - very helpful.

 

Even though I think it's pointless (no water found in mine) I would not recommend skipping the filter draining (or replacement at 20k). When you are doing the work yourself (or going to an Indy) it's critical to be able to show that you followed the required maintenance in the event you have an issue.

Once I'm out of the MFG warranty I'll cut back to 7-10k OCIs and ignore the fuel filter for 20k or so. In the meantime, however, I have to play by their rules if I don't want to get burned.

The only obnoxious part about draining the water from the filter is their stupid design (no drain at the bottom of the enclosure) which means you have to deal with getting fuel on you.


I don't mention PASM because I don't have it so I wouldn't know

There was also no mention of it in the PIWIS docs at the time or when I pulled the "updated" version earlier this year (other than the date nothing had changed). I pulled the docs specific to my VIN though so I don't know if a PASM VIN would have resulted in slightly different directions.

Glad you found it helpful.

 

I tried under the car first, and was discouraged about having to remove two panels to gain full access to the drain plug. So next change I tried the extraction method. Disappointing experience, left too much dirty oil in the pan. Think I found the solution for my 3rd oil change. The Fumoto QuikValve with Cayenne thread adapter and extension tube will let me do it from below - without subsequently having to remove the forward panel. It still involves removing the drain plug, but only one last time. The QuikValve then replaces the plug. Permanently. From that point on all oil changes are performed by removing only the rear panel, and just opening the valve.

//greg//

 

You find the most interesting toys Greg!

I'd really like to do that as I hate getting the oil on me and my ratchet, but I'd be worried about:

• Forgetting that it's there when I have someone else changes the oil (hopefully they'd stop and ask, but you know its not their top guy doing oil changes...).
• Getting it torqued on properly as the pictures make it appear that you need to use a box wrench on the body.
• How well that valve holds up over time (e.g. I don't want to take the tray down and find it covered in old oil).
• I could see Porsche dealers not approving of this and trying to given you grief over warranty claims. Not that I think they'd have a leg to stand on in most cases, just that it could cause grief.

 

Nice on the quick valve. On the maintenance schedule it says to readout the soot filter. I suppose the PWIS does that, I have not seen that on the Durametric. Also how do you document the fuel filter drain (a picture)?, otherwise I guess it is like checking the box on the Porsche Maint. form.

 

Not that it's concrete evidence (just as saving the oil and filter receipts doesn't technically prove you actually changed your oil), but I took a pic of the fuel (there was no water) in the bleeder as documentation that A) I did it and B) there was no significant water accumulation.

 

Thanks Gnat I plan to photo as well, also thanks Greg for the Quick valve idea I ordered one for the Cayenne and my mini excavator - they had one that fits the Isuzu diesel engine in it. I also ordered the lock clips for both ($1) for a little more piece of mind. I run the Cayenne down a rough gravel road pretty much daily. I live in/on a county/tribal reservation that spares the road maintenance dollars .

 

The QuikValve alone cost $38, the Cayenne diesel thread adapter and drain hose extension were extra. Given the cost (and feel once it was in hand), it is quite a sturdy valve. Hopefully sturdy = reliable. That and the fact that Fumoto has been manufacturing these for a long time. One would assume they've worked any bugs out years ago


//greg//

 

I had a fumoto valve on my 6.0 Powerstroke for 7 years, 110K+ miles and 22+ DIY oil changes. Never one issue. I didn't like how it hung lower from the pan than the normal plug, but never had a issue. Made the changes quicker and cleaner.

I had a MB GL350 before the CD and the interval was every 10K and the dealer charged circa $300 for the oil change. I thought $300 was boarder line rape, but it was only every 8 to 10 months, so I dealt with it. At 5K intervals and nearly $600 for an oil change, Porsche dealers can get stuffed. It isn't that hard spending 30 minutes changing my oil oil and I know it will be done right. Quicker than going to the dealer and getting a loaner for the afternoon.