I just sent it to you.

Thanks again for all of your informative posts. On a slightly unrelated note, I ended up getting a Bluespark tuning box/chip for my vehicle due in part to your posts and comments. It makes a huge difference (in power/torque) and I love it. I might put my vehicle on a dyno to get some real numbers for it at some point.

b-man

 

I really don't see porsche taking a torque wrench to your oil plug if the engine fails. Maybe they would because its higher dollar, but when I had to have an engine replaced in my old 350z under warranty, just showing them receipts for my oil and filters was enough to satisfy them.

 

Your VIN indeed shows 30nm for the drain plug. It also shows yours as having just been updated since I last pulled mine a few months ago.


Oh those bastards
I hate Porsche with a damn passion.
They have changed their system so you can't buy a block of documents by a monetary amount (e.g. $100 credit) to use as needed. Now they ONLY do time based access where $14/hour or $140/day are the "cheap" options :grr:

I guess they got wise to us DIYers

So I can see that my doc has been updated too, but I used the last of my credit for yours so I can't check it. I really #||%^^]*]+}%] hate Porsche right now.

 

Oooohhh not happy with Porsche. Called my Indy and yes for the 958.1 it is also 30nm now as well.

Thanks b-man.

 

I updated the first post too.

 

I attended my Cayenne's 15000 mile service today and learned a trick for filling the urea tank. The tech loosened and rotated the spare tire so the fill port was centered between the spokes. He then removed the trunk protective cap and the urea tank cap. He inserted a long funnel like we used to fill ATF into the urea tank and filled away. With a flash light you can see the fluid level in the tank. My car took its usual 2 1/2 gallons of urea after 5000 miles.


After filling and re-installing the urea tank cap he flushed the area with water as there were signs of dried urea around the tank cap.

 

gnat thanks for the great write-up. I used a cheap turkey baster from the supermarket to extract the fuel from the filter housing. Worked fine.

 

If you did it like the first pic (through the filter), then you didn't do it right

You have to remove the filter, insert your device to the bottom of the case, let it settle for awhile, then extract fuel/water.

The issue is that when it is in a non-agitated state the water settles to the bottom.

Your idea for the extraction device is perfect though. Even cheap enough you don't have to worry about cleaning it up and storing it. Just toss it and get a new one next time

 

Thanks for that tip. I have to admit I had zero concern of finding water in that housing.

 

Yeah me either, but Porsche says it has to be done so I'm not giving them any excuses. Especially now with the longer warranty

 

Thanks for the detail process on the oil change. I plan to do mine for the first time today. I don't care for oil extractors and plan to remove the plug.

one thing I noticed was your mention of the BMW filter change. I have a 2008 M3, and the first time I changed the oil filter, it spilled out all over the front of the engine. In putting it back together, I noticed a groove that ran down the threads that started about 1/4" from the top of the threads. The second time I changed the oil filter, I unscrewed the top of the filter about halfway out and the groove allowed air to enter the housing and allowed me to take the top off with no spill.

CaptainDave

 

Finally got tired of the high prices and time of bringing my Cayenne Diesel in the shop so why not do it myself like I used to years ago. I drive a lot and my 3 year Cayenne has 100K miles on. Turns out the fuel filter has never been replaced or the air filter for that matter just oil changes about every 7500 miles. Primarily highway miles at average speeds between 75-80 mph and getting 31mpg.

It took me 1 hour to do the oil, fuel filter and air filter change. I already had a micro and normal torque wrench so I was able to use the torque settings outlined in early posts (5ft-lb for the T-20 screws for the fuel filter and 26 ft-lbs for oil filter housing 32mm or 1.25" socket).

While other posts mentioned lots of fuel spill when opening the fuel filter cover I found it to be not to much but yes having a few clean rags around the fuel filter housing was helpful. I used a syphon that you can buy at Walmart for less than $10 and this did the trick to get the rest of the fuel out. Since the syphon just has a plastic house I taped a metal rod to it so it would be straight and it made this process much easier. This fuel filter had 100K miles on it and there was less than 1/2 oz of water. I think the 10K replacement is crazy. Thats about 350 gallons of fuel which from an engineering point of view is nothing. Obviously I'm referring to buying fuel in the US and in other countries the quality of fuel may
not be to such a high standard and this would require changing more frequent. I'm an avid cyclist so I have more water bottles than I know what to do with which gave me an idea. I filled up the Cayenne prior to this and while at the fuel station I put about 20 oz of Diesel into a marked "Diesel" clean water bottle. This was helpful since I could fill up the fuel housing and fuel filter w diesel prior to putting the top back on. The sip spout made it easy to pour in the housing/filer so no spill. After replacing the top and then starting the car there was maybe a 2 second delay in starting the car. I let the car idle for about 4 minutes and then took it for a test drive. I gave it two foot to the floor accelerations both times from a stop to 75 mph with zero fuel hesitations. Returned to the house to check for any leaks and found none. When torquing the T-20 screws on the fuel cover after initial hand tightening, torque in a manner like you would tighten the lug nuts on a tire.

Air filter replacement was just how described and very simple to do. Total time about 7 minutes

Replacement of oil and filter. I decided to use a Pela Pro 14 oil extractor instead of the traditional process. This made for a no mess and contained use oil extraction. I read many other posts on line about using this product and I think I have to agree that you basically remove just as much oil as the traditional method without all the hassle. The extractor removed 8L of oil with the electronic meter on the dash registering in the middle of high and low. Replacing the oil filter was just how described and since it is a top mount oil filter when you remove it it isn't totally full of used oil so no mess if you are carefull.
Also every once in a while I have to go to Walmart. They have 5 qt Mobil 1 5W-30 for less than $23. Its weird they have it on an end cap with a price of $25 and change but when it rings at the register it is slightly less then $23.- Maybe a fluke

I've enclosed some picture of products as well as the used fuel filter



Cayenne just turned 100Kmiles



used fuel filter w 100K miles



Oil extractor



Oil and Fuel filter



Bargain Mobil 1 at Walmart

 

I have a 2013 Cayenne Diesel with 60+k miles and no service has been done by the Porsche dealer. I changed the oil once from the bottom and had a huge mess, so on the advice of a Porsche Mechanic, I bought an extractor. I first filled the extractor with the amount of oil that is specified and marked a line. The extractor pulled the oil up to the line in 23 minutes. It takes about 30 minutes to change oil and filter. I change my fuel filter every 10K and I have a small extractor to pull all the fuel out. I get some debris out of the housing each time, but no water yet. Air and cabin filters are a snap. I also do my own inspections on a lift that a friend has. I tow my race M3 with the diesel, and also my my mini-lite 24.5' travel trailer. I love the diesel.

 

The replacement is 20k, not 10k. 10k is the water drain interval.

As far as the intervals, it really depends on the quality of fuel in your area. As detailed in my thread on the process, I did the 10k drain myself as well as the 20k replacement. Looking back at the pics it was clear that it got dirtier between the drain and the replacement and it was also significantly dirtier than a fresh filter.

Could I have gotten another 20 or 80k out of it? Probably, but it's simple and relatively cheap (if you go directly to Mann) so why risk a $20k motor?

Please tell me that is NOT the oil you put in your diesel. If so, it's the wrong stuff. You need the "ESP" version which is specifically for TDIs that use DEF injection.

You need to make sure the oil is spec'd for Porsche's C30 (double check the manual that I'm remembering correctly) or VW's 507.00 specs. To the best of my knowledge the "ESP" variant is the only M1 oil that meets those specs.

 

No, I don't use that oil. I order mine from BlauParts,LLC that sells the German oil and filter. They have a kit price on the oil and filter. Thanks for the tip on the fuel filter. I the manual says every 10k mile replacement, i thought. I only find trash in the bottom of the suction oil, no water, yet.