Thanks my friend.

1) This seemed like the easier and safer option for a 'noob' like me.
I was certainly tempted to try the quicker method with my bleeder (fill the bleeder, pressurize and feed/bleed all 4 corners at one shot).
The option i chose was a bit slow, but i knew that i could prevent air in the lines by taking my time (fill the vehicle reservoir, pressurize with motive, bleed, depressurize, repeat x 4).

2) At this point, i feel like i wasted money on the extractor.
It is NOT needed for this DIY.
A turkey baster would have been a lot easier and resulted in less to clean.
I could have thrown the baster out and still been about $80 bucks ahead.

One day i'll find another use for my extractor and then create another DIY!

Hope that helps.

 

Do note: Depending on your location (out of the United States) ATE Super Blue is no longer sold due to a regulation law of the fluids color not meeting U.S. spec. ATE Typ 200 is the only one you can purchase now. We also have Power Bleeders here too if needed as they're a great resource for bleeding brakes.

 

Thanks for the explanation! That explains a lot. I guess I will invest in a set of power bleeder kit.

 

Nice write up, I am also going to do a brake fluid flush with my base cayenne next week or so. As for the bleed valve, hand tight could be sufficient or is there a specific torque spec to follow?
A friend's 911 went to the dealer for a service including brake fluid flush and couple days later he found large amount of brake fluid leaked out from the bleed valve and completely destroyed the paint on the caliper. I am just wondering if that's a case of over tightening the valve or not tight enough. Certainly don't want this to happen to me.

 

Thanks.

Great question on torque spec - I did not have torque spec for bleed valve.
I went to a spot that felt right and then gave it a tiny bit more without overpowering.

If anybody finds the spec, please post up here.

 

Thanks for posting this procedure.

The best I could find was the bleeder tightening spec for a 981 Boxster: tighten bleeder valves to 14 Nm (10.5 ftlb.).

 

This is a great DIY writeup!

There are a couple of things I found from the service manual for 958.

1. The sequence of the bleeding process

Front Left (Driver Side) --> Front Right (Passenger Side) --> Rear Right --> Rear Left

This is different from the most writeup associated with brake bleeding sequences but the above is the sequence for 958 based on the Porsche Service Manual.

2. The sequence of bleeding valve in each Caliper
Outer Bleeder Valve --> Inner Bleeder Valve


3. Tightening Torque for Each Brake Bleeder Valve
10.5 ft.lb (+-1.5 ft.lb)

I am not sure what the right pressure for the Motive Power Bleeder is but most people use 15 psi.

BTW, thanks again for a great writeup with photos.

I found that another user posted the service service manual in the following.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-bleeding.html

I don't think that the sequence doesn't really matter when we use the pressure method. But it's my personal opinion though.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Great to hear it was helpful. Appreciate your add of additional info quoting the actual service manual! That's helpful.

 

One thing to note.. most master cylinder reservoirs are held to the master cylinder by rubber grommets. I have heard of instances where too much pressure in the reservoir ended up popping it off, spraying brake fluid. That's a bad thing.. I usually use as little pressure as is needed to move the fluid through the system. If more pressure is needed I suggest using some tiewraps to secure the reservoir to the cylinder. They're easy to remove when you're done.

 

Have heard that in order to flush the brake fluid out of the ABS module a scanner/diagnostic tool is needed to open the module up to allow the brake fluid in/out. Can anyone verify?

If this isn't done, how much brake fluid is actually in the ABS module? Anyone know if the brake fluid in the ABS module actively circulates through brake lines?

Thanks!

 

this is an interesting question.
also, I was under the impression that these cars require DOT 4 LV (low viscosity) fluid. However, the super blue is normal DOT4.
Do you have any info on this? Thanks