Brake fluid flush / bleed on a 958 - DIY
#1
Brake fluid flush / bleed on a 958 - DIY
I struggled to find a good DIY or procedure for a 958 brake fluid flush.
It took a few weeks to do my research and procure the right tools.
This is a relatively easy DIY and should save a few hundred dollars at the dealership.
From start to finish, it should take an hour.
The cost of brake fluid is pretty cheap and the process barely used one can (1 L).
ATE Super Blue costs a bit more and is harder to find. However, it's the exact same fluid as the ATE 200.
To me, alternating color makes it easier for a beginner.
Next time i perform the brake flush, i will go with the regular ATE 200 clear fluid.
I was extremely tempted to go with a better fluid like Castrol SRF or Motul.
Since i don't race my pig, i highly doubt better fluid is really necessary on a 958 Cayenne.
Tools used to perform the brake flush/bleed. I'll add additional detail to the tools below.
This is the method i chose to remove brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir prior to the flush. However, a simpler and easier method would be to use a turkey baster.
Once you remove as much fluid from the reservoir as you can, add fresh fluid to fill up the reservoir.
I used the Motive Brake Bleeder, black edition with European adapter. You have two options, add brake fluid to the Motive bleeder, hook up to reservoir and pressurize the entire system. The other option, which i chose, was to only use the Motive bleeder to pressurize the system. Note: I did not add brake fluid directly to the Motive bleeder. This means hook up the Motive to the full reservoir, pressurize, bleed at the calipers, disconnect the bleeder, add more fresh brake fluid to reservoir to fill up (don't add fluid to the motive unit), reconnect the Motive to pressurize and continue to bleed at the calipers. Repeat as often as needed until all old fluid is bleed/flushed out.
Using this process, just make sure you don't bleed too much out at the caliper and forget to refill the fluid reservoir. Otherwise, you'll likely introduce air bubbles into the lines/caliper
The fluid in use on my CTT was OEM Porsche brake fluid, clear in color. I opted for picking up both standard type 200 and Super Blue racing fluid. You only need one can (1 Liter) but its good to have a spare just in case.
Yes, the one with the yellow cap.
Important: Brake fluid is really bad for clear coat paint. It's very important to not allow even a drop on the paint. Secondly, pressurize the system to approximately 29 psi. I had to convert BAR to PSI, but 29 psi should be the correct number. I've heard that 15 psi will work, but may not provide enough pressure to 'adequately' move the fluid internally.
Procedure: Start with the right rear brake, then move to the left rear, then front right, then front left. Why? Start furthest away and work yourself to the closest brake caliper nearest the brake fluid reservoir.
There are two locations to bleed at each caliper/corner. Start at the inner valve, then move to the outer.
Wrench used to open and close the valves on the caliper (11mm).
This is how much old brake fluid i collected from the entire process start to finish. Notice it's not all clear since I allowed a small amount of the ATE Super Blue to bleed through. This was done to ensure i got as much old fluid as possible.
All better for another two years and i have a good, hard feeling brake peddle. Porsche recommends this service every two years.
____
If this DIY helped you and you learned something, please consider leaving Rep points (feedback) due to this thread.
Also, feel free to add your experiences/insights if it will improve this DIY.
Lastly, please feel free to post or contact me if you have any clarifying questions on the process.
It took a few weeks to do my research and procure the right tools.
This is a relatively easy DIY and should save a few hundred dollars at the dealership.
From start to finish, it should take an hour.
The cost of brake fluid is pretty cheap and the process barely used one can (1 L).
ATE Super Blue costs a bit more and is harder to find. However, it's the exact same fluid as the ATE 200.
To me, alternating color makes it easier for a beginner.
Next time i perform the brake flush, i will go with the regular ATE 200 clear fluid.
I was extremely tempted to go with a better fluid like Castrol SRF or Motul.
Since i don't race my pig, i highly doubt better fluid is really necessary on a 958 Cayenne.
Tools used to perform the brake flush/bleed. I'll add additional detail to the tools below.
This is the method i chose to remove brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir prior to the flush. However, a simpler and easier method would be to use a turkey baster.
Once you remove as much fluid from the reservoir as you can, add fresh fluid to fill up the reservoir.
I used the Motive Brake Bleeder, black edition with European adapter. You have two options, add brake fluid to the Motive bleeder, hook up to reservoir and pressurize the entire system. The other option, which i chose, was to only use the Motive bleeder to pressurize the system. Note: I did not add brake fluid directly to the Motive bleeder. This means hook up the Motive to the full reservoir, pressurize, bleed at the calipers, disconnect the bleeder, add more fresh brake fluid to reservoir to fill up (don't add fluid to the motive unit), reconnect the Motive to pressurize and continue to bleed at the calipers. Repeat as often as needed until all old fluid is bleed/flushed out.
Using this process, just make sure you don't bleed too much out at the caliper and forget to refill the fluid reservoir. Otherwise, you'll likely introduce air bubbles into the lines/caliper
The fluid in use on my CTT was OEM Porsche brake fluid, clear in color. I opted for picking up both standard type 200 and Super Blue racing fluid. You only need one can (1 Liter) but its good to have a spare just in case.
Yes, the one with the yellow cap.
Important: Brake fluid is really bad for clear coat paint. It's very important to not allow even a drop on the paint. Secondly, pressurize the system to approximately 29 psi. I had to convert BAR to PSI, but 29 psi should be the correct number. I've heard that 15 psi will work, but may not provide enough pressure to 'adequately' move the fluid internally.
Procedure: Start with the right rear brake, then move to the left rear, then front right, then front left. Why? Start furthest away and work yourself to the closest brake caliper nearest the brake fluid reservoir.
There are two locations to bleed at each caliper/corner. Start at the inner valve, then move to the outer.
Wrench used to open and close the valves on the caliper (11mm).
This is how much old brake fluid i collected from the entire process start to finish. Notice it's not all clear since I allowed a small amount of the ATE Super Blue to bleed through. This was done to ensure i got as much old fluid as possible.
All better for another two years and i have a good, hard feeling brake peddle. Porsche recommends this service every two years.
____
If this DIY helped you and you learned something, please consider leaving Rep points (feedback) due to this thread.
Also, feel free to add your experiences/insights if it will improve this DIY.
Lastly, please feel free to post or contact me if you have any clarifying questions on the process.
Last edited by BlazinPond; 05-12-2015 at 06:08 PM.
#5
#6
I've apparently rep-ed you too recently, but you deserve it again. Excellent DIY.
#7
For what its worth...I spent hours and hours taking pics and writing up my first DIY (Catbypass pipe install).
I never received a single rep point (ever) for that thread...which i thought was odd.
It certainly didn't stop me from creating new DIY's but again, it seemed strange.
Since then, i thought i had to simply ask or possibly remind people!
Strange how it works.
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#8
Somewhat counter intuitively the rep I got for my V1 thread didn't start coming in until over a year after I created the thread. To me that really says I met my goal of making the information available for the next guy.
For me personally I always try to rep DIYs because of the direct value to the community, but otherwise I'm pretty stingy as I think rep points should actually mean something. That's what leads me to a situation like this where I can't rep you since I don't "spread it around" enough.
Just know that even if rep isn't coming in, your efforts are appreciated and will likely still be referenced after you've moved on to something else
#9
I appreciate your post and effort. just didn't know about the "rep" thingy. you are now "repped"
this post didn't get enough attentions probably because:
1)if you are a diyer, you probably know how to pressure bleed a brake already-to be fair, this is a generic brake bleeding procedure and not a cayenne/Porsche specific.
2)if you are not already a diyer, you probably are not going to mess with your own brake after looking at a post.
this post didn't get enough attentions probably because:
1)if you are a diyer, you probably know how to pressure bleed a brake already-to be fair, this is a generic brake bleeding procedure and not a cayenne/Porsche specific.
2)if you are not already a diyer, you probably are not going to mess with your own brake after looking at a post.
#11
this post didn't get enough attentions probably because:
1)if you are a diyer, you probably know how to pressure bleed a brake already-to be fair, this is a generic brake bleeding procedure and not a cayenne/Porsche specific.
2)if you are not already a diyer, you probably are not going to mess with your own brake after looking at a post.
1)if you are a diyer, you probably know how to pressure bleed a brake already-to be fair, this is a generic brake bleeding procedure and not a cayenne/Porsche specific.
2)if you are not already a diyer, you probably are not going to mess with your own brake after looking at a post.
You also have to consider that with the 958 still being relatively new and even used 11s still carrying a hefty re-sale value, the DIY crowd is small. As they continue to age and drop in price that crowd will increase and these articles will come back from the dead and be helpful.
#12
whered you find more ATE SB? its been recalled about 2 years ago because of our dumb laws, saying brake fluid has to be amber or yellow. apparently it took them 15 years to realize it was blue. I always liked alternating between blue and regular, made it so easy to tell when everything came through.
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/bra...-distribution/
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/bra...-distribution/
Last edited by MikeL; 05-14-2015 at 04:54 PM.
#13
whered you find more ATE SB? its been recalled about 2 years ago because of our dumb laws, saying brake fluid has to be amber or yellow. apparently it took them 15 years to realize it was blue. I always liked alternating between blue and regular, made it so easy to tell when everything came through.
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/bra...-distribution/
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/bra...-distribution/
I found a few places that were selling for 'race use only'.
If you zoom in on my pic, you can see the label stating its not for use on the highway due to non-conforming color
Other than finding the shops that cater to racing, you can always look to eBay.
There are a few members selling for about 28.00 plus shipping from Belgium.
#14
I appreciate your post and effort. just didn't know about the "rep" thingy. you are now "repped"
this post didn't get enough attentions probably because:
1)if you are a diyer, you probably know how to pressure bleed a brake already-to be fair, this is a generic brake bleeding procedure and not a cayenne/Porsche specific.
2)if you are not already a diyer, you probably are not going to mess with your own brake after looking at a post.
this post didn't get enough attentions probably because:
1)if you are a diyer, you probably know how to pressure bleed a brake already-to be fair, this is a generic brake bleeding procedure and not a cayenne/Porsche specific.
2)if you are not already a diyer, you probably are not going to mess with your own brake after looking at a post.
#15
Great write up, BlazinPond! Your efforts on this DIY is much appreciated. As Gnat mentioned, I am also capable and willing but have never done one before, looking at this makes me feel much more comfortable at taking a shot at it.
Sounds like ATE Super Blue is the way to go since you would not have to bleed the old fluid completely and burp the system of bubbles/air.
two questions...
1. Seems like there are a lot of methods of bleeding the brake fluid, did you pick this method because of the ease without worrying about air in system?
2. Do you need both a bleeder and an extractor for this job?
Thanks!
Sounds like ATE Super Blue is the way to go since you would not have to bleed the old fluid completely and burp the system of bubbles/air.
two questions...
1. Seems like there are a lot of methods of bleeding the brake fluid, did you pick this method because of the ease without worrying about air in system?
2. Do you need both a bleeder and an extractor for this job?
Thanks!