Exciting new development over the weekend - found and purchased a complete set of Porsche Cayenne Carbon Ceramic Brakes (calipers, rotors, pads, sensors, etc) in just about brand new condition, that will be installed as part of the build.

Have these on my RUF 997 and absolutely love them. I have been looking for a set since I bought the Cayenne (was actually looking for a Cayenne that was equipped with them during my vehicle search, but couldn't find the right combination of options that included them so they fell off the list in-favor of other more important criteria, like color, full leather seats without the alcantara, mileage, region, etc).









Incidentally, this means in a couple months, the OEM Big Red Setup with 380mm fronts (rotors, calipers, pads, etc) will be listed for sale in The Marketplace. If anyone is interested, shoot me a message and I can let you know when they're up for sale. Have to do some research on the pricing to see what to list them for. Car (and brakes) have 28,000 miles on them and work perfectly.

 

150hp but probably doesn't weigh 2,000lbs does it?

 

Are those brakes direct bolt on with no issues? Don't see why they wouldn't be but just curious.

 

914 is about 2,200 lbs but only had 90 something HP when stock and new, so about a 50% increase. It's not going to win any drag races, but is a pretty well balanced platform all around and a lot of fun.

The carbon ceramics should be a direct bolt-on. They sometimes require longer caliper mounting bolts (like on my 997) due to the larger caliper size, but I'll check that out in PET, or I may install them with somei hardware from World Motorsports or Rennline.

 

Love the ceramic set! If you don't mind disclosing where you found them and for how much? I just recently did my rotors and pads and what a pain trying to find the right rotor size for my CTT. Apparently the Porsche changed the brakes twice in 2008 and I have the early pair on my CTT that are hard to find.


Those are going to look great on the car! Love the yellow! I had mine finished in lime green. enjoy!

 

Love the 914! Looks great and like a fun little car

 

Thanks. Found them on eBay in Germany from a 100% positive seller. All in, with shipping, insurance, PayPal fees, exchange rate, etc $10,000. The same setup from Suncoast is $22,000 and if I look at what a set of new front rotors costs, plus what I can sell my low-mileage setup for, it's still crazy expensive, but a little more palatable.

These could be a lifetime of the vehicle purchase, or maybe one set of pads years from now, but for as long as I'll be keeping this vehicle, to have the awesome braking and zero dust to clean off the wheels, decided it was worth it.

 

A whole lot of rationalizing there but I do that sort of thing all of the time. Just bought all new interior trim in Olive wood because I like the flat look better than the shiny walnut that came with my 2011 CTT. I told myself that I can sell the original mint trim to recoup some of the money....I did the same thing with a BMW 550i GT and the trim is still boxed up in the basement...

 

Progress continues. Muffler & exhaust tips are installed, as is the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft (still need to get pics of those from under the car).

While the body shop continues with the kit fitting and panel prep, I borrowed the Misha hood to make an underhood pad to clean up the look when the hood is opened and protect the paint from any engine heat.

• I cut a piece of Plexiglas the shape of the inner structure, then
• used short bolts through the bracing attached via T-nuts so the short bolts used about 1/2 the threads and left me a threaded nut into which to attach the primary mounting bolts that would go through the finished hood pad structure. This also makes the pad stand-off slightly from the underside of the hood so there is space to allow for wiring and windshield washer lines to pass between the hood and the pad
• I then used some aluminized, heat-reflective, insulating material and cut that a couple inches larger all around, following the secondary hood structure where there was spacing in the fiberglass molding to attach it with push-fasteners. I made two of these the exact same shape. I selected this material because I have the same under the hood of my 928 and it has held up very well even with the higher underhood temps.
  
• Using heat-resistant spray adhesive, I adhered the Plexiglas sheet to one of the aluminized panels, then repeated the process, so now the Plexiglas is sandwiched between two layers of the reflective shielding material. This gives the pad structure from the Plexiglass, protects the Plexiglas from the engine bay heat, and protects the hood paint and fiberglass from any damage.
• I then located some strategic points around the perimeter of the pad where the push fasteners would hold up the border of the pad well, and drilled holes into the fiberglass under structure at these positions
• Then to dress it up a little, I created a Porsche crest and some black "PORSCHE" letters on my wife's Silhouette Cameo computerized cutting machine which I adhered onto the pad. The reflective gold multi-color crest with the black and red and the black PORSCHE looks pretty cool.

Here are some photos of the process.


Hood with the open cavities that I wanted to cover up



Test fitting after the Plexiglas was bonded to the first layer of insulation pad material



Both layers sandwiching the Plexiglas and pad mounted with all fasteners



Finished Product with Graphics



Finished Close-up


Anyway, that's what I worked on this weekend and am quite pleased with the final product.

Pete

 

Just curious - is the fiberglas(tm) hood lighter than the aluminum one?

 

Are the calipers for the ceramic setup any different from the stock red turbo calipers? They certainly look identical except for the color..

 

I don't know on the weights of the hoods but have to return the fiberglas one to the body shop this week now that the pad is done, so I can pick both of them up and get a feel, even if not a true number, or maybe I'll remember to take my scale.

The difference with the calipers is that the red ones mount with both from the side and the yellow ones from a 958 mount with bolts through the top - one is radially and the other axially. I'm going to have to have adapters made to mount the yellow ones to the carriers. It does look like I could take that piece off the red calipers, but then those wouldn't have much value on the secondary market, so I'll likely leave them as is and have some aluminum adapters made to mount the PCCB calipers.











The bad news is that DHL hasn't delivered my Ceramic setup yet. It was shipped from Germany on 12/9 and put into a container on 12/16 for transport to the US, but no tracking information is available on them since then. Monday, the seller will be refunding my money and filing the claim with DHL. If they show up, I'll just repay him, but having been almost 6 weeks I'm losing hope and might be staying with the OEM 380mm reds.

 

Right 'O on the calipers. I was thinking of the calipers on my '11 CTT - they look identical to the ceramic calipers you show above (and probably are - although the stock 958 CTT uses 390mm front rotors..)

I think you'll have to have a bracket manufacturered since the yellow rotors mount with two T50 bolts on one side of the caliper. It looks as if your original calipers mount with 1 T50 (or maybe T45) bolts at one end of the caliper and the other?? Anyway - it looks a lot different. I vaguely seem to recall reading about someone who used the steering knuckle off a 958CTT on their 957 to use ceramic brakes.. but it's been a long time and I don't remember the details or how complex that job was.

Sorry to hear that the ceramics apparently have gone missing. Hope they show up.

 

I decided to redo the Yakima Skybox mounting method so I'd be able to use my Pano roof with the Skybox installed. I've opened it with the roof crossbars installed before and the clearance is fine, but the way the Skybox clamps go around the bars, I wouldn't be able to use it and worried about someone accidentally turning the pano roof **** when it's installed by accident. This is what the previous mounting method looked like.




I did some research and the channels on-top of the crossbars that have the rubber strip pressed in are actually usable as a mounting method and most of the roof box companies sell T-nuts that slide into this channel for mounting it this way. Also, the Skybox wasn't water tight because the lid doesn't make a perfect seal with the bottom shell and the little plastic strips that the clamps slide with in the slots that allow for adjustability, actually flap a bit in the wind and allow for water to enter through the adjustment slots. I bought a 6' sheet of Plexiglas and ripped 2 strips on my band saw that are just narrower than the air-flow channels that the clamps slide in. I also used a roll of thin silicone weather stripping all around the perimeter of the top of the box where it meets with the bottom when closed. It's thin enough that the box closes well and easily, but should seal up any gaps that existed and let water enter. I cut angles on both ends to follow the design of the channels, and then used clear RTV to glue these Plexiglas strips into the channels - now there won't be any more flapping or water egress in through the adjustment slots. Since we only use the Skybox on our Cayenne, I'm also having the top painted to match the car at the same time they paint the car so they'll look like a matched set. I'm leaving the bottom black since the paint would just get scratched-up when attaching it to the crossbars.

Since I plan to use the same rotating quick clamps to tighten the box down to the bars, I created my own fasteners so everything will work the way I want it to.

• I did this using all stainless steel: 3" long 5/16" stainless bolts, fender washers, square nuts, & knurled *****.
• I ground down the sides of the washers to be just a little narrower than the width of the roofbar channel, to give me a nice secure mounting in the channel with more contact area than just the curved edges of the screw head, which was a little narrower than I felt comfortable with
• cut and ground down the square nuts to be just narrower than the top channel,
• and ground down the screw-heads just enough so that the screw with the washer on it slide into the channel and can be adjusted to the proper position.
• I then put the assembly together using red loctite and cranked them tight. The purpose of the square nut is to allow me to tighten the knurled **** on the handle assembly without the attachment bolt turning in the channel. It doesn't need to be too strong as what really creates the lock-down force to secure the Skybox to the crossbars is flipping the handle in the carrier over. The screw just allows for the tension adjustment of the handle.

Once I get the car back,

• I'll lay the roofbox on the bars,
• figure out the optimal position for the cross-bars on the roof, and the box on the bars so that the tailgate can still open fully and not contact the box,
• mark these positions in the Plexiglas strips I glued into the base of the Skybox,
• drill the holes in the Plexiglas,
• locate the bolts in the cross-bar channels, cutting the rubber strips to leave just enough space for the bolts to come through, which will keep the bolt positions from moving, and attach the box. We only use the crossbars when we use the Skybox so I don't have to worry about the bolts staying in the channels all the time.

This will then allow us to use the Skyox and open the Pano roof at the same time, and also eliminate the risk of damaging the roof, if opening it by accident when the Skybox is installed.


Maybe the pictures will help to explain it.

 

Hallelujah - out of the blue today, 2 of the 3 PCCB brake kit boxes delivered. I now have in-hand all 4 calipers, all 8 pads, pad sensors, and 2 PCCB rotors. Hoping the 3rd box with the other 2 rotors arrives tomorrow.

The condition was as great as they looked like in the photos - if I didnt' know better, you can't tell them apart from brand new - they're that clean. And they're ginormous - the front caliper is probably as long as my forearm.

Can't wait to get this car put back together, painted, and back on the road with all the updates.