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Got a clean bill of health from the recent dealer visit, including a fuel drain and refresh due to the length of time that 10% ethanol blend had been in there, just to be safe. The body shop is finishing up the final touches and detail this week. Based on the recent test drive though, she might need a tune to make the most of the mods. I'm going to give tge DME some time to adjust the fuel trims and then see.
Got a clean bill of health from the recent dealer visit, including a fuel drain and refresh due to the length of time that 10% ethanol blend had been in there, just to be safe. The body shop is finishing up the final touches and detail this week. Based on the recent test drive though, she might need a tune to make the most of the mods. I'm going to give tge DME some time to adjust the fuel trims and then see.
It's home, now the rest of the work begins, starting with clay bar, polish and wax tomorrow, then clear bra in select areas on Monday and taking measurements for the PCCB adapters and fitting the new wheels is high on the list.
She looks sweet back home...when you putting the wheels on and getting a proper shoot
Thanks. I have to pull the current wheels and brakes sometime this upcoming week to take precise measurements to order the radial to axial caliper adapters needed to mount the PCCBs. As I put things back together with the stock brakes, I'll do the fitment of the wheel spacers and new wheels, so the car should be in its final form, less the brakes by the end of the week, and I can take some additional pictures.
Spent all of today with the clay bar, polish, and paint sealant getting ready for the clearbra guy that's coming over on Monday evening, as it will never be this clean again.
Snapped a couple more pics after yesterday's exterior detailing. Driver's door release mechanism is being temperamental so it's ajar in the pic and I'll have to pull it apart and see what's going on as neither the inside or outside handle will open the door but I can hear the lock moving when I lock and unlock with the key fob and inside buttons - maybe there's an adjustment for the cable.
I see you have the air suspension, how do you envision you'll be setting the ride height?
I'm going back through your thread later.
The way the fender flares come outward and down and with the larger and lower front bumper, I'll be leaving the air suspension settings normal for the time being. The wheels are also 2" wider than stock so might need that clearance for full lock turning. I'll get everything g put together and see how it looks. If it needs a little more drop I'll try the Durametric calibration method, but at the Sport ride height, I think it will look pretty good as is.
The way the fender flares come outward and down and with the larger and lower front bumper, I'll be leaving the air suspension settings normal for the time being. The wheels are also 2" wider than stock so might need that clearance for full lock turning. I'll get everything g put together and see how it looks. If it needs a little more drop I'll try the Durametric calibration method, but at the Sport ride height, I think it will look pretty good as is.
During the drive home from the body shop under boost, I heard a pop and then had no boost on the gauge (I hadn't l looked at it to know if it was working before the pop though) and the car didn't feel very strong either. Pulled the front wheelwell liners and found the problem, err, problems...
The pop was surely this one
but investigating further there were a number of issues with the way the body shop installed the HHR Intake, EVOMS Diverter Valves, and the FVD Intercoolers.
The o-rings at the junction between the intercoolers and the factory plumbing was in the wrong place and prevented the factory tube from going into the FVD collar far enough for the snap ring to lock into the groove.
The plastic elbow that has the rubber line to the diverter valve wasn't oriented correctly and was pinching that rubber line, so I readjusted all that and also added a loose coil spring inside the rubber hoses which is larger than the fittings on the elbow and the diverter valve, but gives the rubber lines structure.
The passenger side rubber line to the diverter was cut by the clamp so I bought a new hose to replace it and installed the clamps properly.
The blown off connection wasn't locked into the spring clip properly so I fixed that and put a wire toe around the ends of the spring clip to hold it together, but it will probably be fine without it and just want put together correctly initially. Checked the Driver's side too and did similar fixes to it as well. The FVD collar on that side didn't have an o-ring at all, so added that on the proper place and that clip locks in now too.
... guess they should stick to paint and body work and leave the mechanical stuff alone :-/
I cleared the DME and the car relearned the fuel trims, though I didn't drive it, but even with some light revving on the lift, the boost needle isn't even twitching, so I'm curious if in your Turbos the boost needle moves at all when not driving without any load on the motor. If so, they must have knocked the vacuum line that reports boost to the gauge off during the bodywork if anyone can point me to where those connections are under the hood.
03-27-2018 | 09:28 AM
