Looking for Info on Compound, Claying, & Polishing
#1
Looking for Info on Compound, Claying, & Polishing
These are 3 things I dont know much about and would like to learn more about. Does anyone know of a website that talks about these things and explains methods, tips etc?
I'm not buying any DVDs or books. It simply doesn't make sense to buy any instructional video or book with all the free content on the web today.
Thanks guys!
I'm not buying any DVDs or books. It simply doesn't make sense to buy any instructional video or book with all the free content on the web today.
Thanks guys!
#2
Found this, figured I'd post it if someone else is looking for the same info. This about covers everything.
http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/
http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/
#4
Take a look at our video section, it has some PC demo videos and a quick overview of the basics.
You can pretty much substitute the adam's products with other similar items.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...on=Custom&ID=3
You can pretty much substitute the adam's products with other similar items.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/index...on=Custom&ID=3
#5
In a nutshell:
Compounding: Removes sand marks and deep imperfections. Very aggressive and should be followed by polishing.
Claying: Clay is simply quartz crystals embedded in a plasticizer. imagine a super-fine sand paper with the ability to deep clean the paint from embedded contaminants. Many different grit of clay based on your application. The more aggressive the clay, the more polishing needs to be doe to remove the marring made by the clay. A must have product. The mildest clay right now is the Sonus Extra Fine and the most aggressive would be a Red Clay Magic. I use zymöl Lehm Klay 2 because it's a happy medium between aggressive and mild. It does marr the paint slightly but the marring is polished off using any mild hand polish.
Polishing: Arguably the most effective step. This can dramatically improve the look and feel of a finish. Polishing is done through micro-fine abrasives and oils to remove swirls, halogramming, spider webbing, etc. There are many different polishes out there for different applications. My 2 favorite right now are Menzerna Super Intensive and Nano Polish (106FF) Both will correct a myriad of blemishes on most paints. The trick is knowing which pad to use and what machine. Using the 106FF with a DA will have different effect than using 106FF with a rotary.
Hope this helps.
Compounding: Removes sand marks and deep imperfections. Very aggressive and should be followed by polishing.
Claying: Clay is simply quartz crystals embedded in a plasticizer. imagine a super-fine sand paper with the ability to deep clean the paint from embedded contaminants. Many different grit of clay based on your application. The more aggressive the clay, the more polishing needs to be doe to remove the marring made by the clay. A must have product. The mildest clay right now is the Sonus Extra Fine and the most aggressive would be a Red Clay Magic. I use zymöl Lehm Klay 2 because it's a happy medium between aggressive and mild. It does marr the paint slightly but the marring is polished off using any mild hand polish.
Polishing: Arguably the most effective step. This can dramatically improve the look and feel of a finish. Polishing is done through micro-fine abrasives and oils to remove swirls, halogramming, spider webbing, etc. There are many different polishes out there for different applications. My 2 favorite right now are Menzerna Super Intensive and Nano Polish (106FF) Both will correct a myriad of blemishes on most paints. The trick is knowing which pad to use and what machine. Using the 106FF with a DA will have different effect than using 106FF with a rotary.
Hope this helps.
#7
To work with clay you will need a lubricant. Fortunately what you use is not critical and many products will work fine. Many clay kits ship with a "Quick Detailer" spray which works. I use a tablespoon of car wash detergent (dawn) in about 20 oz. of distilled water and dispensed using a spray bottle.
The "baggie test" is the way to go and is recommended as an easy way to demonstrate the power of claying. Put your hand in a ordinary sandwich baggie (the thin kind, not the thick rugged ones) and spray a test area of the paint with the above described clay lubricant. Then go over the paint surface as shown with just enough pressure to get a feel for the surface. You'll detect all sorts of bumps and defects, many more than are apparent with even a close visual inspection.
Claying is done after the car is washed, but before it is waxed or polished.
To use the clay, apply some of the clay lubricant to the area you are going to work on, which shouldn't be larger than about 2' x 2'. Then glide (in other words, use only minimal pressure) the clay over the surface. If the lubricant is working, the effort to move the clay over the surface will be next to nothing; you are really guiding its movement more than anything else. A lot depends on how much the clay has to pick up.
As you progress, you'll note that the clay bar gets thinner. You'll then have to rework the bar so that it is thick again by kneading it. I like to just fold it over, the reasoning is that it will have a cleaner surface. You'll get a feel for how it is working by the way it glides over the paint surface. This "feel" will also tell you when the clay bar is losing its effectiveness (it's resistance increases) and needs to be replaced. When you are finished with a section, dry it using the same towels you use after you wash the car. It's a good idea to re-wash or heavily rinse the entire car with a hose after you are finished with the claying task. When you are finished, do the "baggie test" again. The results will be easily felt.
A clay bar is good for about four to five treatments. This depends on factors such as the size of the vehicles and how dirty they are. One important note: if you ever drop a clay bar, you MUST throw it away. The potential for causing scratches from material it picks up is just too great. If you intend to reuse the clay bar, store it in a box or baggie to keep it clean.
The "baggie test" is the way to go and is recommended as an easy way to demonstrate the power of claying. Put your hand in a ordinary sandwich baggie (the thin kind, not the thick rugged ones) and spray a test area of the paint with the above described clay lubricant. Then go over the paint surface as shown with just enough pressure to get a feel for the surface. You'll detect all sorts of bumps and defects, many more than are apparent with even a close visual inspection.
Claying is done after the car is washed, but before it is waxed or polished.
To use the clay, apply some of the clay lubricant to the area you are going to work on, which shouldn't be larger than about 2' x 2'. Then glide (in other words, use only minimal pressure) the clay over the surface. If the lubricant is working, the effort to move the clay over the surface will be next to nothing; you are really guiding its movement more than anything else. A lot depends on how much the clay has to pick up.
As you progress, you'll note that the clay bar gets thinner. You'll then have to rework the bar so that it is thick again by kneading it. I like to just fold it over, the reasoning is that it will have a cleaner surface. You'll get a feel for how it is working by the way it glides over the paint surface. This "feel" will also tell you when the clay bar is losing its effectiveness (it's resistance increases) and needs to be replaced. When you are finished with a section, dry it using the same towels you use after you wash the car. It's a good idea to re-wash or heavily rinse the entire car with a hose after you are finished with the claying task. When you are finished, do the "baggie test" again. The results will be easily felt.
A clay bar is good for about four to five treatments. This depends on factors such as the size of the vehicles and how dirty they are. One important note: if you ever drop a clay bar, you MUST throw it away. The potential for causing scratches from material it picks up is just too great. If you intend to reuse the clay bar, store it in a box or baggie to keep it clean.
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#12
I use it alot, the clay sponge that is.
I also have a rule.
If you polish you clay, if you clay you polish.
There are tricks to using the clay sponge, there are times when standard clay is preferred. In all i have 5 kinds of clay at my disposal.
I also have a rule.
If you polish you clay, if you clay you polish.
There are tricks to using the clay sponge, there are times when standard clay is preferred. In all i have 5 kinds of clay at my disposal.
#14
do i have to use a machine to polish the car ?
my car is silver, and only has swirl marks..
can i polish by hand ?
if YES, what kind of polish should i use ( i dont need anything too abrasive) the car is silver, and the swirl marks arent that bad
my car is silver, and only has swirl marks..
can i polish by hand ?
if YES, what kind of polish should i use ( i dont need anything too abrasive) the car is silver, and the swirl marks arent that bad
#15
you don't have to use a machine but it might take you sometime.
if you go by hand you could try the Einszett Extra/Paint Polish/Metallic/and Einszett Glanz.
If you have time you can drop by and I can show you some of the products.
if you go by hand you could try the Einszett Extra/Paint Polish/Metallic/and Einszett Glanz.
If you have time you can drop by and I can show you some of the products.
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