Detailwerkz, my new favorite DFW area detailer
#1
Detailwerkz, my new favorite DFW area detailer
Copied from www.DFWLX.com, this is a write up my new detailer did on my car
As 300CSRT8 has stated, he dropped off the vehicle to me this afternoon. I was able to get the car washed/stripped/clayed and dried just before the sun set this afternoon.
I really had no idea what I was up against until I got out the 3M Sun Gun. As you can see there is quite a lot of paint damage to this vehicle. It does however look like its only superficial and this means that its just in the top layer of clear and not deeper. This should correct easily and not take to many hours of labor. However I will not know this until I can work on a panel and see just what is going on with the damage.
This damage is caused by a few things. Mainly improper use of an orbiter, wrong pad on the orbiter and bad towels to take off the compound and I assume when the paint shop washed the vehicle.
I am going to start on a panel using some of the Gloss-It Evolution Cut Paint Correction Polish. This is my mild aggressive polish and will remove car wash swirls, towel marks and medium to heavy swirls caused from hi-speed buffing.
I will use the Gloss-It Cyclo Double Sided Yellow/Green 4 inch polishing pads. I will start with the yellow side. This side is for removing heavier damaged paints and swirls. I will use my Cyclo polisher for this Paint Correction job.
Once I have had the time to work on a panel to see how the paint is going to react to the compound I will post more photos and explane what I am doing, in hopes to help others that might have similar problems.
As 300CSRT8 has stated, he dropped off the vehicle to me this afternoon. I was able to get the car washed/stripped/clayed and dried just before the sun set this afternoon.
I really had no idea what I was up against until I got out the 3M Sun Gun. As you can see there is quite a lot of paint damage to this vehicle. It does however look like its only superficial and this means that its just in the top layer of clear and not deeper. This should correct easily and not take to many hours of labor. However I will not know this until I can work on a panel and see just what is going on with the damage.
This damage is caused by a few things. Mainly improper use of an orbiter, wrong pad on the orbiter and bad towels to take off the compound and I assume when the paint shop washed the vehicle.
I am going to start on a panel using some of the Gloss-It Evolution Cut Paint Correction Polish. This is my mild aggressive polish and will remove car wash swirls, towel marks and medium to heavy swirls caused from hi-speed buffing.
I will use the Gloss-It Cyclo Double Sided Yellow/Green 4 inch polishing pads. I will start with the yellow side. This side is for removing heavier damaged paints and swirls. I will use my Cyclo polisher for this Paint Correction job.
Once I have had the time to work on a panel to see how the paint is going to react to the compound I will post more photos and explane what I am doing, in hopes to help others that might have similar problems.
#2
Ok, I have decided to do my test panel on the driver door as it seems to be one of the worst.
First thing I do is measure how thick the paint is in the areas that I will be doing the paint correction. This is very important to me as it lets me know exactly how much paint I have to play with before I burn into the paint. I measure in three areas. First I measured on the right side. This read 7.4 mills of paint.
Next I measured in the middle of the door. This read 8.6 mills of paint.
And finally I measured on the left side of the door and it read 7.6 mills of paint.
What does all this mean?
This tells me that either the body shop has taken a few mills of paint off during their compounding process or it tells me that they did not do a nice even job of painting the door. This does help me know that I have less paint to play with on the sides of the door.
more to come....
First thing I do is measure how thick the paint is in the areas that I will be doing the paint correction. This is very important to me as it lets me know exactly how much paint I have to play with before I burn into the paint. I measure in three areas. First I measured on the right side. This read 7.4 mills of paint.
Next I measured in the middle of the door. This read 8.6 mills of paint.
And finally I measured on the left side of the door and it read 7.6 mills of paint.
What does all this mean?
This tells me that either the body shop has taken a few mills of paint off during their compounding process or it tells me that they did not do a nice even job of painting the door. This does help me know that I have less paint to play with on the sides of the door.
more to come....
#3
I started the paint correction process using my Cyclo polisher and Gloss-It paint correction polish.
I work on a 12x12 area at a time.
What you see here is the compound prior to removal.
Here you see what the paint looks like once the compound has been removed and prior to the 30/70 alcohol cleaning.
This shot is the right side of the door where the correction has not taken place. You can see the difference already.
After I clean the area with the 30/70 solution of alcohol/water you can see what you should see...crystal clean paint!
The 30/70 solution is used to make sure I am not filling in the damage, but removing the damage. This also makes sure all compound residue is removed and any oils are removed prior to working on the next area.
Here is a shot of the area I just worked on using the flash of my camera.
Here is a shot of the same door, but the right side. This side has not been corrected.
Here is a shot of the door, right in the middle. You can see the way the flash reacts on the right side compared to the side I just corrected on the left.
I now have a better idea of about how long this paint correction should take me. I will take more photos as I continue to work on the vehicle tomorrow.
more to come...
I work on a 12x12 area at a time.
What you see here is the compound prior to removal.
Here you see what the paint looks like once the compound has been removed and prior to the 30/70 alcohol cleaning.
This shot is the right side of the door where the correction has not taken place. You can see the difference already.
After I clean the area with the 30/70 solution of alcohol/water you can see what you should see...crystal clean paint!
The 30/70 solution is used to make sure I am not filling in the damage, but removing the damage. This also makes sure all compound residue is removed and any oils are removed prior to working on the next area.
Here is a shot of the area I just worked on using the flash of my camera.
Here is a shot of the same door, but the right side. This side has not been corrected.
Here is a shot of the door, right in the middle. You can see the way the flash reacts on the right side compared to the side I just corrected on the left.
I now have a better idea of about how long this paint correction should take me. I will take more photos as I continue to work on the vehicle tomorrow.
more to come...
#4
The paint correction is going great. I got the driver side completed yesterday and started working on the hood last night.
I had to switch to a more aggressive compound to work out the medium scratches I saw in the paint. I moved to the Gloss-It Extreme Cut this is my most aggressive polish and will remove 2000 grit sandpaper scratches, car wash swirls,towel marks and medium to heavy swirls caused from hi-speed buffing.
I continued to use the Gloss-It yellow cut foam pad and the Cyclo polisher for the paint correction.
This was your rocker behind the front wheel (driver side). As you can see massive over spray on this panel!
I had to switch to a more aggressive compound to work out the medium scratches I saw in the paint. I moved to the Gloss-It Extreme Cut this is my most aggressive polish and will remove 2000 grit sandpaper scratches, car wash swirls,towel marks and medium to heavy swirls caused from hi-speed buffing.
I continued to use the Gloss-It yellow cut foam pad and the Cyclo polisher for the paint correction.
This was your rocker behind the front wheel (driver side). As you can see massive over spray on this panel!
#5
After a little color-sanding and buffing it looks like it should!
Here is where I start working on the hood. The hood was worse than I expected. 300CSRT8 told me that it had not been painted but I can tell they attempted to buff it as well. It had TONS of swirls and quite a lot of fine to medium scratches.
Again I had to use the Gloss-It Extreme Cut paint correction polish with the yellow cycle 4 inch pad.
The out come is nothing but mind blowing!
more to come...
Here is where I start working on the hood. The hood was worse than I expected. 300CSRT8 told me that it had not been painted but I can tell they attempted to buff it as well. It had TONS of swirls and quite a lot of fine to medium scratches.
Again I had to use the Gloss-It Extreme Cut paint correction polish with the yellow cycle 4 inch pad.
The out come is nothing but mind blowing!
more to come...
#6
So after I flipped the vehicle around to start working on the passenger section, I noticed it was really just as bad as the driver side was. Here are some before photos of what the doors and fenders looked like.
Again all I used was the Gloss-It Extreme Cut Polish and the Gloss-It Yellow 4 inch foam pad and my Cyclo Polisher.
Here are the after results...
Again all I used was the Gloss-It Extreme Cut Polish and the Gloss-It Yellow 4 inch foam pad and my Cyclo Polisher.
Here are the after results...
#7
Once I had the car completely paint corrected it was time to pull her out in the sun and see just how the paint really looks. Me and my guys washed the car 2 times to make sure I had all the compound dust off the car and out of the groves etc. Once it was washed we did our 3 stage drying process where we use water blades, micro-fiber waffle weave drying towels and then finish up with a 2 blower parade.
Once the car was dried I started applying the Gloss-It Gloss Finish Polish to the vehicle. This product is so easy to use, simply open up the bottle, apply to your foam pad and apply. I used my Porter Cable 7424 and Lake Country red 6 inch foam pad to apply the polish.
Here are some photos of the Gloss-It Gloss Finish Polish on the car curring. Curing time is around 15 mins!
more to come....
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#8
Once the polish was cured we started to wipe off the polish using our Grit Guard Super Soft no-scratch microfiber polish removal towel..whew..thats a mouth full! The Gloss-It polish comes off as easy as it is to apply it! Simply just wipe with no pressure and it just buffs off leaving an incredible shine!!
When we had all the polish off the vehicle it was time to spend some attention to the inside and motor. First we PH-Cleaned the interior with a cleaner to rid any oils, dirt, ect on the leathers, plastics and vinyls. Once the interior was fully wiped down an application of the Gloss-It Satin Leather Polish was applied to the leather seats and the Gloss-It TRV was applied to the vinyls and plastics.
We had to make sure that all previous compound from the paint shop was removed. To do this we used some special brushes designed to remove dried past wax and compound in hard to reach places.
When we had all the polish off the vehicle it was time to spend some attention to the inside and motor. First we PH-Cleaned the interior with a cleaner to rid any oils, dirt, ect on the leathers, plastics and vinyls. Once the interior was fully wiped down an application of the Gloss-It Satin Leather Polish was applied to the leather seats and the Gloss-It TRV was applied to the vinyls and plastics.
We had to make sure that all previous compound from the paint shop was removed. To do this we used some special brushes designed to remove dried past wax and compound in hard to reach places.
#9
Once the residue was removed and the inside was cleaned, protected and vacuumed we had a car ready to win any show!
Here are the final shots of the vehicle once all the paint correction, polishing, and detailing were completed. Enjoy...
Here are the final shots of the vehicle once all the paint correction, polishing, and detailing were completed. Enjoy...
#10
It was a pleasure getting to work on such a fine vehicle and the outcome was way more than I was expecting.
Total time on paint correction was 18 hours
Total time on detail was 3 hours with 3 men
Products used in Paint Correction
Gloss-It Evolution Extreme Cut Paint Correction Polish
Gloss-It Evolution Cut Paint Correction Polish
Gloss-It Cyclo Polisher
Gloss-It Cyclo Double Sided Yellow/Green 4 inch polishing pads
Products used in Detail Process
Porter Cable 7424 Polisher
Gloss-It Gloss Finish
Gloss-It Satin Leather Cleaner
Gloss-It Satin Leather Polish
Gloss-It T.R.V. Protectant
Gloss-It Gloss Enhancer
#11
nice job but I don't think you are suppose to post your works here unless you are sponser
#12
I've heard of Brian, does great work, another true pro with a passion for what he does with quality.
Glad you found a good one.
Glad you found a good one.
#13
#14
#15
That's what he sent to me? I have posted on a couple forums and this is the only one that said anything?
Most people said thank you??
http://www.300cforumz.com/showthread.php?t=23545
http://www.dfwlx.com/showthread.php?t=316