Thanks for the quick response Moe. Before using this polishing kit would you recommend that I use a clay bar on the car? After using this kit, I would still have to wax, right? What do you think of the P21S products I already have? Would I still use the P21S paint cleanser and then wax or should I just go straight to the wax? And can I use the flex to apply wax or would wax be better applied by hand? If so, what pads would I use?

 

Claying should always be done before any polishing IMHO. As for your question about the P21S paint cleanser and wax, they are both great products. To do the process correctly, you should apply paint cleanser after using the polishing kit I suggested. However, we have found great results by simply waxing after polishing with the Menzerna as well. So in a nut shell, it wouldn't hurt, but not absolutely necessary to use paint cleanser prior to waxing with P21S.

Since P21S is a paste wax, you should use a foam hand applicator similar to the one below.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...licator/Detail

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

The Flex looks like a great product. Do you think it is much better and worth the extra cost over the Porter Cable 7424XP? I think I'll probably use it about 5-6 times per year.

I've seen that Menzerna has another product called the Finishing Glaze. Do you think this is a necessary step after the Super Finish or should I just go straight to waxing?

 

The flex, IMHO, is far superior to the PCXP. The flex is a direct drive, it has much more torque, and is built in Germany. For the amount of times you'll be using it in a year, you'll appreciate its form and function.

Finishing Glaze isn't necessary since you're not trying hide anything, as most glazes fill the imperfections. You can go straight to wax.

 

Thanks for all your advice. You are a true asset to this community.
I will definitely look at getting the advanced polish kit you recommended.

Of note, I was going through one of your previous threads and saw that the clear film vinyl "bra" should be taped off as well as all the rubber. Would you suggest taping only while polishing with the Flex. And then remove the tape and use the P21S paint cleanser on the car and the vinyl film? Also, with the P21S 100% carnauba wax; would you recommend using that on the film, or does it contain yellow carnauba, and so I shoud keep it off the film? What can I use if not the P21S?

Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to do the right thing with my car and don't want to regret doing the work myself.

 

Thanks for the compliment; it makes all the hard work worth it.


Yes; tape off all black rubber and clear film when polishing by machine. Not to worry if polishing by hand.

I would use a product like einszett spray wax to protect the film. P21S does have yellow carnauba .

 

Moe, I've followed your instructions a couple times. Fantastic info. If you plan a trip to the SF/Bay Area please put me on your list.

A couple of questions:
1. Can claying become part of a regular wash routine or will repeated use eventually break down the quality of your paint. I typically hand wash my car twice/month.
2. You commented on another post (which I can't find) about how to avoid getting the brown residue from routers which accumulates after washing them and not drying them quickly enough. What a pain to remove! Any thoughts on an effective solution to avoid the brown run off, or a way to quickly remove it?

Thanks again for everything.

Greg

 

Thanks for the compliment Greg.

1. In my opinion, claying should be done any time you polish. This helps lay the polish and wax down on a clean surface free of contaminants. What wax are you using? Typically, a good wax should last at least 3 months.

2. As for getting the rotors and the brake dust that collects inside wheel barrels after washing, simply do a good job of rinsing out the rotors. This is made easier if you have slotted rotors. Simply spray inside the holes and keep going until the water runs clear. You also spray behind the caliper where you see the opening that faces the inner barrel of the wheels.

If you don't have slotted rotors, after you've cleaned the exterior and are done, drive the car up and down the block which will kick back the brake dust water inside the wheels. Using several clean mf towel, to not scratch the wheels, wipe down the inside of wheels with a spray wax like einszett.

Hope this helps.

 

Moe-

I followed your advice and many others by thoroughly rinsing my rotors after washing them. I.e. 1-2 minutes of water on each one. They still end up with this brown "gook" bleeding from the holes. See pic.

Any advice? Many thanks again for your help!

Greg

 

Oh....I didn't know you were talking about the rotor itself having that brown film. There's nothing you can do about that. It's harmless and it's due to the surface metal oxidizing when coming into contact with water. One simple drive and a few times of braking will take care of that. Hope this helps.

 

JUST HIT 100 REPLIES!!!!!! Keep them coming folks. This thread is hopefully helping everyone get good advice.

 

Great post, thank you!

 

Glad you enjoyed reading it. Hope it comes in handy.

 

For those of you wondering what clay we currently use, here's a link:

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...cant%2C/Detail

 

Hi Moe. Great info you have provided here. I have a question about cleaning in between the trinity steps. I use ONR for washes, I polish by hand using Einszett Paint Polish Lack-Politur and I then apply Ultima Paint Guard Plus. My questions are as follows:

1. Do I need to wash/clean with anything special to remove the Ultima prior to claying?

2. After claying do I need to wash/wipe down/clean with anything special to either remove the clay residue or the Ultima prior to polishing?

3. After polishing do I need to wash/wipe down/clean with anything special to remove the polilsh residue prior to applying the Ultima?

Thanks!

Regards,
Frank A.