Alcohol rub down
#1
Alcohol rub down
What type of alcohol and in what ratio should it be combined with water. What is it's main purpose and what is the easiest method to use it.
I presume it does not damage the area you had just polished.
I presume it does not damage the area you had just polished.
#2
Alcohol wipe downs serve several purposes...
1. Prior to the polishing process- Before you start polishing the car, the paint should be as clean as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to polish the paint. Any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the polishes. Wash, clay, wash, alcohol wipe down, polish. Some heavily contaminated cars might even require a decontamination process using FK or valuguards 3 step process. If a car has oxidation, or silicon in the paint I recommend using either one of the decontamination products.
2. During the polishing process- Alcohol can and should be used during the polishing process to remove any polishing oils that may be masking defects. This will help you ensure you are getting true correction.
3. Prior to LSP- Alcohol can also be used to clean the surface prior to applying your LSP to give it a better surface to bond to. Kind of like a pre wax or paint cleaner.
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and there is no magic dilution rate. I think people get wayyy to caught up in dilution rates. We arent scientists creating medications or something. You can dilute it 1:1, 5:1, full strength, whatever you want. The difference in the rate at which it evaporates. The most common is probably 1:1, but you dont need to do what everyone else does.
Simply spray it directly onto the paint and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Hope that helps.
1. Prior to the polishing process- Before you start polishing the car, the paint should be as clean as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to polish the paint. Any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the polishes. Wash, clay, wash, alcohol wipe down, polish. Some heavily contaminated cars might even require a decontamination process using FK or valuguards 3 step process. If a car has oxidation, or silicon in the paint I recommend using either one of the decontamination products.
2. During the polishing process- Alcohol can and should be used during the polishing process to remove any polishing oils that may be masking defects. This will help you ensure you are getting true correction.
3. Prior to LSP- Alcohol can also be used to clean the surface prior to applying your LSP to give it a better surface to bond to. Kind of like a pre wax or paint cleaner.
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and there is no magic dilution rate. I think people get wayyy to caught up in dilution rates. We arent scientists creating medications or something. You can dilute it 1:1, 5:1, full strength, whatever you want. The difference in the rate at which it evaporates. The most common is probably 1:1, but you dont need to do what everyone else does.
Simply spray it directly onto the paint and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Dan1; 01-08-2009 at 11:54 AM.
#3
Alcohol wipe downs serve several purposes...
1. Prior to the polishing process- Before you start polishing the car, the paint should be as clean as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to polish the paint. Any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the polishes. Wash, clay, wash, alcohol wipe down, polish. Some heavily contaminated cars might even require a decontamination process using FK or valuguards 3 step process. If a car has oxidation, or silicon in the paint I recommend using either one of the decontamination products.
2. During the polishing process- Alcohol can and should be used during the polishing process to remove any polishing oils that may be masking defects. This will help you ensure you are getting true correction.
3. Prior to LSP- Alcohol can also be used to clean the surface prior to applying your LSP to give it a better surface to bond to. Kind of like a pre wax or paint cleaner.
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and there is no magic dilution rate. I think people get wayyy to caught up in dilution rates. We arent scientists creating medications or something. You can dilute it 1:1, 5:1, full strength, whatever you want. The difference in the rate at which it evaporates. The most common is probably 1:1, but you dont need to do what everyone else does.
Simply spray it directly onto the paint and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Hope that helps.
1. Prior to the polishing process- Before you start polishing the car, the paint should be as clean as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to polish the paint. Any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the polishes. Wash, clay, wash, alcohol wipe down, polish. Some heavily contaminated cars might even require a decontamination process using FK or valuguards 3 step process. If a car has oxidation, or silicon in the paint I recommend using either one of the decontamination products.
2. During the polishing process- Alcohol can and should be used during the polishing process to remove any polishing oils that may be masking defects. This will help you ensure you are getting true correction.
3. Prior to LSP- Alcohol can also be used to clean the surface prior to applying your LSP to give it a better surface to bond to. Kind of like a pre wax or paint cleaner.
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and there is no magic dilution rate. I think people get wayyy to caught up in dilution rates. We arent scientists creating medications or something. You can dilute it 1:1, 5:1, full strength, whatever you want. The difference in the rate at which it evaporates. The most common is probably 1:1, but you dont need to do what everyone else does.
Simply spray it directly onto the paint and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Hope that helps.
I myself use a 50/50 water/isopropyl mix.
#4
I use 70% marked on the bottle (standard drugstore stuff) about 60% alc., 40% water. Works good and does not evaporate too fast.
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damon@tirerack.com
877-522-8473 ext. 4643
574-287-2345 ext. 4643
**Don't forget to add my name to online orders!**
Or use this link:
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=BH1&url=index.jsp
#5
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#11
Alcohol wipe downs serve several purposes...
1. Prior to the polishing process- Before you start polishing the car, the paint should be as clean as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to polish the paint. Any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the polishes. Wash, clay, wash, alcohol wipe down, polish. Some heavily contaminated cars might even require a decontamination process using FK or valuguards 3 step process. If a car has oxidation, or silicon in the paint I recommend using either one of the decontamination products.
2. During the polishing process- Alcohol can and should be used during the polishing process to remove any polishing oils that may be masking defects. This will help you ensure you are getting true correction.
3. Prior to LSP- Alcohol can also be used to clean the surface prior to applying your LSP to give it a better surface to bond to. Kind of like a pre wax or paint cleaner.
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and there is no magic dilution rate. I think people get wayyy to caught up in dilution rates. We arent scientists creating medications or something. You can dilute it 1:1, 5:1, full strength, whatever you want. The difference in the rate at which it evaporates. The most common is probably 1:1, but you dont need to do what everyone else does.
Simply spray it directly onto the paint and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Hope that helps.
1. Prior to the polishing process- Before you start polishing the car, the paint should be as clean as possible. The cleaner it is, the easier it will be to polish the paint. Any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the polishes. Wash, clay, wash, alcohol wipe down, polish. Some heavily contaminated cars might even require a decontamination process using FK or valuguards 3 step process. If a car has oxidation, or silicon in the paint I recommend using either one of the decontamination products.
2. During the polishing process- Alcohol can and should be used during the polishing process to remove any polishing oils that may be masking defects. This will help you ensure you are getting true correction.
3. Prior to LSP- Alcohol can also be used to clean the surface prior to applying your LSP to give it a better surface to bond to. Kind of like a pre wax or paint cleaner.
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and there is no magic dilution rate. I think people get wayyy to caught up in dilution rates. We arent scientists creating medications or something. You can dilute it 1:1, 5:1, full strength, whatever you want. The difference in the rate at which it evaporates. The most common is probably 1:1, but you dont need to do what everyone else does.
Simply spray it directly onto the paint and wipe off with a microfiber towel.
Hope that helps.
If I'm applying any wax, I use the manufacturer's pre-wax cleanser. I find it's easier to wax and the "look" is richer. If you've done an excellent job of the first few steps of polishing, you know there's nothing being filled later. My 2 cents
#12
I think that there is still a lot of debate as to whether Alcohol is better than something like Top Inspection or Prep-Sol.
I think that your choice of product depends on your budget, and your overall goals.
If you are a die-hard perfectionist when it comes to paint correction, ... yes... we are looking at you Moe..., something like Top Inspection or Prep-Sol might be slightly more effective at removing 100% of residual polishing oils from the paint surface upon inspection. The point of this is to ensure a flawless finish. All polishes rely on oils to suspend the abrasive compounds, and if left on the paint surface, those oils can hide SMALL defects. Small is the key word here. THere is still a huge debate among a lot of top detailers if there is a noticable difference between Alcohol for this stage vs. a pure solvent like Prep-Sol or Top Inspection. But for those that MUST take this extra step, you can.
Alcohol is much less expensive of a solution, it is more readily available, and it will still easily remove enough to drive you up the wall with the little defects that are still left in your paint finish. It may not be 100%, but it is surely 98% or better, so it isn't a bad alternative.
The other benefit of alcohol or prep-sol or Top Inspection is to remove these oils which can outgass later and prevent your LSP adhesion.
As Moe said, products such as Zymol HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid also accomplish this purpose, ensuring that your LSP has a surface perfectly primed for maximum adhesion.
The short version... it depends on how picky you are. If you want to use something really specific and dedicated to removing these oils, you have a few choices like Prep-Sol and Top Inspection, but I think that there is still a lot of debate as to whether these products are significantly more effective than an alcohol blend.
I think that your choice of product depends on your budget, and your overall goals.
If you are a die-hard perfectionist when it comes to paint correction, ... yes... we are looking at you Moe..., something like Top Inspection or Prep-Sol might be slightly more effective at removing 100% of residual polishing oils from the paint surface upon inspection. The point of this is to ensure a flawless finish. All polishes rely on oils to suspend the abrasive compounds, and if left on the paint surface, those oils can hide SMALL defects. Small is the key word here. THere is still a huge debate among a lot of top detailers if there is a noticable difference between Alcohol for this stage vs. a pure solvent like Prep-Sol or Top Inspection. But for those that MUST take this extra step, you can.
Alcohol is much less expensive of a solution, it is more readily available, and it will still easily remove enough to drive you up the wall with the little defects that are still left in your paint finish. It may not be 100%, but it is surely 98% or better, so it isn't a bad alternative.
The other benefit of alcohol or prep-sol or Top Inspection is to remove these oils which can outgass later and prevent your LSP adhesion.
As Moe said, products such as Zymol HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid also accomplish this purpose, ensuring that your LSP has a surface perfectly primed for maximum adhesion.
The short version... it depends on how picky you are. If you want to use something really specific and dedicated to removing these oils, you have a few choices like Prep-Sol and Top Inspection, but I think that there is still a lot of debate as to whether these products are significantly more effective than an alcohol blend.
#13
I think that there is still a lot of debate as to whether Alcohol is better than something like Top Inspection or Prep-Sol.
I think that your choice of product depends on your budget, and your overall goals.
If you are a die-hard perfectionist when it comes to paint correction, ... yes... we are looking at you Moe..., something like Top Inspection or Prep-Sol might be slightly more effective at removing 100% of residual polishing oils from the paint surface upon inspection. The point of this is to ensure a flawless finish. All polishes rely on oils to suspend the abrasive compounds, and if left on the paint surface, those oils can hide SMALL defects. Small is the key word here. THere is still a huge debate among a lot of top detailers if there is a noticable difference between Alcohol for this stage vs. a pure solvent like Prep-Sol or Top Inspection. But for those that MUST take this extra step, you can.
Alcohol is much less expensive of a solution, it is more readily available, and it will still easily remove enough to drive you up the wall with the little defects that are still left in your paint finish. It may not be 100%, but it is surely 98% or better, so it isn't a bad alternative.
The other benefit of alcohol or prep-sol or Top Inspection is to remove these oils which can outgass later and prevent your LSP adhesion.
As Moe said, products such as Zymol HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid also accomplish this purpose, ensuring that your LSP has a surface perfectly primed for maximum adhesion.
The short version... it depends on how picky you are. If you want to use something really specific and dedicated to removing these oils, you have a few choices like Prep-Sol and Top Inspection, but I think that there is still a lot of debate as to whether these products are significantly more effective than an alcohol blend.
I think that your choice of product depends on your budget, and your overall goals.
If you are a die-hard perfectionist when it comes to paint correction, ... yes... we are looking at you Moe..., something like Top Inspection or Prep-Sol might be slightly more effective at removing 100% of residual polishing oils from the paint surface upon inspection. The point of this is to ensure a flawless finish. All polishes rely on oils to suspend the abrasive compounds, and if left on the paint surface, those oils can hide SMALL defects. Small is the key word here. THere is still a huge debate among a lot of top detailers if there is a noticable difference between Alcohol for this stage vs. a pure solvent like Prep-Sol or Top Inspection. But for those that MUST take this extra step, you can.
Alcohol is much less expensive of a solution, it is more readily available, and it will still easily remove enough to drive you up the wall with the little defects that are still left in your paint finish. It may not be 100%, but it is surely 98% or better, so it isn't a bad alternative.
The other benefit of alcohol or prep-sol or Top Inspection is to remove these oils which can outgass later and prevent your LSP adhesion.
As Moe said, products such as Zymol HD Cleanse or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid also accomplish this purpose, ensuring that your LSP has a surface perfectly primed for maximum adhesion.
The short version... it depends on how picky you are. If you want to use something really specific and dedicated to removing these oils, you have a few choices like Prep-Sol and Top Inspection, but I think that there is still a lot of debate as to whether these products are significantly more effective than an alcohol blend.
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