I think the yellow pad would be a good thing to add.

As for the flex, I think everyone knows my stance. If you have the $$, get it. It saves you time, money, and the results are far better than a PC, even the new PC.

We have them in stock, shipping is free, and you'll get a FLEX soccer ball and ball cap for free. I think I know someone that might enjoy the soccer ball

 

Hi Moe,

I have the XPA steering wheel and I accidently scratched the bottom of the steering wheel with my work badge while exiting the car. Its not a deep scratch at all and I was wondering if you knew of any products that would help smooth it out and hide it.

I found leather master scratch remover but it works only on aniline leather. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

Any way you can post a picture?

 

Here you go...I tried to use a method for aniline repair that I found online...

For Aniline leather, use a hair drier to heat the area while massaging it. This will bring the leather scuff out. Then apply Leather Protectant over the area. If it is still noticeable then treat it like a leather repair.

That seemed to help a little, but still no go...thanks for any suggestions Moe.

 

Things like that are basically tough to repair on your own. You've basically removed actual material or have broken through the top surface of the hide. It could probably be repaired nicely, but I'd fine a good leather restorer and have him/her look at it.

 

Thank you Moe! I will look into it. Cheers.

 

Moe,

Are you still doing your 'project'? I have been waiting for stuff to arrive....

Jen

 

Hi Jen. Yes; we're still working on the product line. We have shifted gears and are focusing on formulating the polish and waxes right now. Since this project is internally funded, my savings, we decided it was best to put our resources into the most critical aspect of the product line. At the moment, a lot of R&D is going into the waxes. I should have the first prototype carnauba wax by January and will keep you guys posted. Thanks for the interest, and expect to see your samples of the products we spoke about some time in January as well.

 

thanks! can't wait!

 

Two questions for you, Moe.

1) I have VERY hard water. I just purchased the CR unit from you and just waiting for delivery. So, I have the rinsing part taken care of. But should I use the DI water for the wash as well or will the car wash/shampoo 'neutralize' the Ca and Mg so I won't have to worry about it?

2) Claying. Will pretty much any detailing spray serve as an adequate and safe lubricant. I know that some frown upon the soap/water combo as it can degrade the plasticizers in the clay, but are there any ingredients in a detailing spray I should avoid with clay?

Thanks!

 

1. If you have very hard water, then use the CR all the way. You can extend the life of the resin by using a pressure washer. Most pressure washers have an output of 1.5-2 GPM. This is much better than the CR's 4.5 GPM output of the dic/diw 20. Inexpensive pressure washers from Lowe's or Home Depot should be around $150.

2. I don't care for detail sprays as lubes. I find the wax or lubricants in the solution tend to minimize the effectiveness of the clay. And yes...certain soaps do break down the plasticizers in the clay. Use the lube that the clay manufacturer recommends. So, whatever clay you bought, use their lube.

 

Hard to decide which polishes to get for my needs...have swirl marks some nicks and cuts in paint (porsche seal grey, BMW light blue and Ford black). All not too deep but some not superficial either (medium depth). Have a PC. 106FA seems like a good finisher. I dont know if SIP will be too much for me as I am a novice. What is the role of 085RD? More or less cut than 106FA?

If you put 106FA on a more cutting pad with that work as well as a more iintensive polish?

Finally, I have P21 paintcleanser from a kit I was given. Not sure what its role is. Should you put it on with a machine or by hand?

Sorry for so many questions

 

When it comes to Menzerna, the two flagship polishes for DIYer and Professional are Super Intensive (SIP - PO85) and Super Finish (106FA). With that said, you cannot go wrong with having both in your arsenal. It's like having a hammer and screwdriver...you'll eventually need both.

PO85RD is a final finishing polish that's a bit finer than 10FA...I for one don't use it because 106FA with a White pad or Red pad gets the finish just right IMHO. It's that extra 5% that some may notice when using 85RD...and I think it needs the rotary to get you there. If using a PC or DA like Flex, 106FA and White/Red pad will finish off perfectly.

P21S Paint Cleanser is meant to be used by hand before applying P21S wax. So, if you use Menzerna, you'll apply P21S Paint Cleanser by hand with a mf applicator, then apply your wax with foam applicator. For times when machine polishing isn't needed, Paint Cleanser by hand is great and then go to wax.

Hope this answers your questions.

 

thanks...as always a great source of info. Will be ordering my menzerna polishes from you later today.

 

Glad I could help and thank you for your order. Appreciate your business We'll get this out to you tomorrow.