Ask Moe
#331
Hey Moe - I bought 12 GP glass cleaning towels from you, based solely on your advice that they are lint-free. Well, they were not. Actually, they left more lints than my 8-year old microfibers that I have been using on my car windows. We spoke once on the phone and I tried what you'd asked me to try but the lints were still there. Actually, they got worse. You then advised me to send them back for a full refund.
Well, you have signed for the return package a week ago today. I have attempted to reach you numerous times via PM asking for the status of the refund but you have been ignoring my PM's.
What's up? I thought you were a reputable vendor and that's why I bought from you. Do you think you can take my money and run, Moe?
I'd like to know when you are going to refund my credit card for the purchase.
It's a shame to treat your customers this way. I hope the forum readers read this before you decide to do business with Moe Mistry.
Well, you have signed for the return package a week ago today. I have attempted to reach you numerous times via PM asking for the status of the refund but you have been ignoring my PM's.
What's up? I thought you were a reputable vendor and that's why I bought from you. Do you think you can take my money and run, Moe?
I'd like to know when you are going to refund my credit card for the purchase.
It's a shame to treat your customers this way. I hope the forum readers read this before you decide to do business with Moe Mistry.
#332
Hey Moe - I bought 12 GP glass cleaning towels from you, based solely on your advice that they are lint-free. Well, they were not. Actually, they left more lints than my 8-year old microfibers that I have been using on my car windows. We spoke once on the phone and I tried what you'd asked me to try but the lints were still there. Actually, they got worse. You then advised me to send them back for a full refund.
Well, you have signed for the return package a week ago today. I have attempted to reach you numerous times via PM asking for the status of the refund but you have been ignoring my PM's.
What's up? I thought you were a reputable vendor and that's why I bought from you. Do you think you can take my money and run, Moe?
I'd like to know when you are going to refund my credit card for the purchase.
It's a shame to treat your customers this way. I hope the forum readers read this before you decide to do business with Moe Mistry.
Well, you have signed for the return package a week ago today. I have attempted to reach you numerous times via PM asking for the status of the refund but you have been ignoring my PM's.
What's up? I thought you were a reputable vendor and that's why I bought from you. Do you think you can take my money and run, Moe?
I'd like to know when you are going to refund my credit card for the purchase.
It's a shame to treat your customers this way. I hope the forum readers read this before you decide to do business with Moe Mistry.
As for the towels linting, we put the towels you sent back in production and ended up cleaning the windows on 6 cars - no linting. I personally did two cars with them and did not get any linting. These towels are a microglass towel that do not have the same nap as a regular microfiber, so technically, they cannot lint on their own. But, it doesn't matter what results I get, it's you that needs to be happy. Since they did not perform to your standards, I'm glad you let us know and sent them back.
As I told you over the phone, we have an unconditional Money Back Guarantee, and in your case, I apologize it took so long to get you refunded. You should see a refund in your PayPal account. We've also put a $25 credit on your Glistening Perfection Store account to be used for future purchases and we hope you give us another opportunity to earn your business.
#333
Moe,
I just wanted to say thanks again. Yesterday I finally had the chance to clean one of the cars. Washed, clay bar, cleaned the paint, and then finally waxed waxed her. The products worked miracles on the car.
Thanks for helping me out and creating a kit for me.
I do have a question. When the clay bar starts to break apart do I just need to get it more wet with the lube? It started to stick to my hands and finger nails. I had on more fender and door to do when this started to happen. I did keep folding and kneading the bar after each section.
Again thanks so much.
John
I just wanted to say thanks again. Yesterday I finally had the chance to clean one of the cars. Washed, clay bar, cleaned the paint, and then finally waxed waxed her. The products worked miracles on the car.
Thanks for helping me out and creating a kit for me.
I do have a question. When the clay bar starts to break apart do I just need to get it more wet with the lube? It started to stick to my hands and finger nails. I had on more fender and door to do when this started to happen. I did keep folding and kneading the bar after each section.
Again thanks so much.
John
#334
Moe,
I just wanted to say thanks again. Yesterday I finally had the chance to clean one of the cars. Washed, clay bar, cleaned the paint, and then finally waxed waxed her. The products worked miracles on the car.
Thanks for helping me out and creating a kit for me.
I do have a question. When the clay bar starts to break apart do I just need to get it more wet with the lube? It started to stick to my hands and finger nails. I had on more fender and door to do when this started to happen. I did keep folding and kneading the bar after each section.
Again thanks so much.
John
I just wanted to say thanks again. Yesterday I finally had the chance to clean one of the cars. Washed, clay bar, cleaned the paint, and then finally waxed waxed her. The products worked miracles on the car.
Thanks for helping me out and creating a kit for me.
I do have a question. When the clay bar starts to break apart do I just need to get it more wet with the lube? It started to stick to my hands and finger nails. I had on more fender and door to do when this started to happen. I did keep folding and kneading the bar after each section.
Again thanks so much.
John
If the clay is sticking to your hand, you're not using enough lube. The 250mL bottle of lube you have should do your car twice. If the clay is picking up a lot of contaminants, then that's another reason why it would break apart.
Hope this helps.
#335
Moe,what are you using for light interior cleaning(dash board,door panels,etc). I have been using the Auto glym interior shampoo & it seems to be doing fine.I just wanted to see if you have been using anything different. Thanks Paul
#336
If leather, vinyl, plastic, etc. Lumiere All-Natural Leather Cleaner is what we're using. Simply spray on the cleaner, lightly agitate with soft bristle brush, then wipe with mf towel. Leaves behind a soft and clean look with no shine. Is this what you meant?
#337
Pressure Washer
Hi Moe
Been looking at lots of different gas pressure washers. I understand it is more the GPM that is important for auto cleaning and PSI should be kept around 2000.
I have seen a few gas powered ones that are about 2.5GPM and pressure is about 2600 (can keep the wand further away to reduce car surface psi) but is this flow rate OK with the CR Spotless?
I like the idea of an electric ones as they are much quieter and do not require the maintenance but I can't seem to find a decent one that does not cost $970 (Kranzle!!)
Been looking at lots of different gas pressure washers. I understand it is more the GPM that is important for auto cleaning and PSI should be kept around 2000.
I have seen a few gas powered ones that are about 2.5GPM and pressure is about 2600 (can keep the wand further away to reduce car surface psi) but is this flow rate OK with the CR Spotless?
I like the idea of an electric ones as they are much quieter and do not require the maintenance but I can't seem to find a decent one that does not cost $970 (Kranzle!!)
#338
Hi Moe
Been looking at lots of different gas pressure washers. I understand it is more the GPM that is important for auto cleaning and PSI should be kept around 2000.
I have seen a few gas powered ones that are about 2.5GPM and pressure is about 2600 (can keep the wand further away to reduce car surface psi) but is this flow rate OK with the CR Spotless?
I like the idea of an electric ones as they are much quieter and do not require the maintenance but I can't seem to find a decent one that does not cost $970 (Kranzle!!)
Been looking at lots of different gas pressure washers. I understand it is more the GPM that is important for auto cleaning and PSI should be kept around 2000.
I have seen a few gas powered ones that are about 2.5GPM and pressure is about 2600 (can keep the wand further away to reduce car surface psi) but is this flow rate OK with the CR Spotless?
I like the idea of an electric ones as they are much quieter and do not require the maintenance but I can't seem to find a decent one that does not cost $970 (Kranzle!!)
Cleaning Power= GPM X PSI
The kranzles are nice and definitely worth the $$ IMHO. But, you can also pick up a lesser unit around $150 at lowes and home depot that get the job done.
The gas ones are OK if you already have one. But their loud noise, way too much power, and bulkiness, is why I decided to go electric and with kranzle. We use our 1120T daily for the last 2 years and it's running like a champ.
#339
CR Spotless questions
Hi Moe:
Although the CR Spotless and the "fishy" smell topic is covered in detail elsewhere, I will post here for your input:
I too noticed the distintive smell from the water after I did not use my CR for over 2 months. Last time I used it, I knew that my resin needed replacement. I was surprised to see that the output PPM was over 200 from the CR! A TDS meter verified the output.
So my questions are:
Although the CR Spotless and the "fishy" smell topic is covered in detail elsewhere, I will post here for your input:
I too noticed the distintive smell from the water after I did not use my CR for over 2 months. Last time I used it, I knew that my resin needed replacement. I was surprised to see that the output PPM was over 200 from the CR! A TDS meter verified the output.
So my questions are:
- Does leaving water in the CR unit shorten the life of the resin? In my case, it certainly seemed like it.
- Is the only reason you empty the canisters is to minimize the smell and avoid potential algae build-up? I cleaned the inside, and the surfaces were a tad slippery to the touch, but no signs of any algae.
- Can you invert the unit to drain the water out of the canisters after use to maximize resin life? I don't want to unscrew the canisters every time I use it.
#340
Hi Moe:
Although the CR Spotless and the "fishy" smell topic is covered in detail elsewhere, I will post here for your input:
I too noticed the distintive smell from the water after I did not use my CR for over 2 months. Last time I used it, I knew that my resin needed replacement. I was surprised to see that the output PPM was over 200 from the CR! A TDS meter verified the output.
So my questions are:
Although the CR Spotless and the "fishy" smell topic is covered in detail elsewhere, I will post here for your input:
I too noticed the distintive smell from the water after I did not use my CR for over 2 months. Last time I used it, I knew that my resin needed replacement. I was surprised to see that the output PPM was over 200 from the CR! A TDS meter verified the output.
So my questions are:
- Does leaving water in the CR unit shorten the life of the resin? In my case, it certainly seemed like it.
- Is the only reason you empty the canisters is to minimize the smell and avoid potential algae build-up? I cleaned the inside, and the surfaces were a tad slippery to the touch, but no signs of any algae.
- Can you invert the unit to drain the water out of the canisters after use to maximize resin life? I don't want to unscrew the canisters every time I use it.
2. Yes.
3. I guess you could...never tried that. Let us know if you can get all the water out that way.
#341
Hi Moe,
Just bought Swissvax Shield and Concorso wax. I'm planning to use Shield for the first layer then top it with Concorso (certainly after cleaning the car with Swissvax Regular and Medium liquid cleaner). My rides are C63 and 2011 Cayenne S.
I live in Indonesia which is humid (above 65% average) and lots of sun.
Is that a good combination?
Thank you in advance.
Davy
Just bought Swissvax Shield and Concorso wax. I'm planning to use Shield for the first layer then top it with Concorso (certainly after cleaning the car with Swissvax Regular and Medium liquid cleaner). My rides are C63 and 2011 Cayenne S.
I live in Indonesia which is humid (above 65% average) and lots of sun.
Is that a good combination?
Thank you in advance.
Davy
#343
Happy Father's Day
#344
Hey Moe:
I thought I posted this, but I must be getting old.
What is your trick to deal with static electricity build-up after detailing.
I polished my basalt black car with Menzerna SIP followed by Menzerna finishing polish, followed by hand applied P21S carnuba. As usual, the car almost immediately starts collecting dust. We have major pine pollen this time of year, and after one drive, the car is covered.
Should I follow with a final rinse/wash? or is this just the name of the game.
I thought I posted this, but I must be getting old.
What is your trick to deal with static electricity build-up after detailing.
I polished my basalt black car with Menzerna SIP followed by Menzerna finishing polish, followed by hand applied P21S carnuba. As usual, the car almost immediately starts collecting dust. We have major pine pollen this time of year, and after one drive, the car is covered.
Should I follow with a final rinse/wash? or is this just the name of the game.
#345
Hey Moe:
I thought I posted this, but I must be getting old.
What is your trick to deal with static electricity build-up after detailing.
I polished my basalt black car with Menzerna SIP followed by Menzerna finishing polish, followed by hand applied P21S carnuba. As usual, the car almost immediately starts collecting dust. We have major pine pollen this time of year, and after one drive, the car is covered.
Should I follow with a final rinse/wash? or is this just the name of the game.
I thought I posted this, but I must be getting old.
What is your trick to deal with static electricity build-up after detailing.
I polished my basalt black car with Menzerna SIP followed by Menzerna finishing polish, followed by hand applied P21S carnuba. As usual, the car almost immediately starts collecting dust. We have major pine pollen this time of year, and after one drive, the car is covered.
Should I follow with a final rinse/wash? or is this just the name of the game.
Hope this makes sense and helps. Let me know.