I searched the thread and forum but couldn't find a definitive answer to this question so here it goes.

Moe, what is the best way to remove hard water spots from my windshield? I just finished washing the ride and thought I dried the windshield before it had a chance to dry in the sun. But, after wiping it down and then going over it with some windex and a microfiber towel, I sat in the car and noticed the entire windshield was covered in hard water spots. I tried putting some good ol' elbow grease into removing them but all I got was an arm workout. Any suggestions?

 

Great question. Removing water spots can vary based on degree of spotting and the material in the water. If you've left the spots on the car and it's baked on for a week and the water was from a sprinkler that had reclaimed water and fertilizer in it, then you're in for some work.

Working in a cool area that's shady, the first thing you can try is cleaning the glass the get the dirt of. Then, spray some vinegar on the glass and let it sit for a minute. Keep spraying and make sure it stays damp. Avoid getting the overspray on the paint and plastic trim. Just keep a mf towel handy to wipe off excess.

Then come back with a paper towel and wipe everything. Inspect the galss and see if you've got the results you're after.

If not, you can purchase some glass polish. Apply the polish by hand using mf pad or by a da with a medium coarseness pad. Then wipe with mf towel. These two steps usually work for us.

Then apply a sealant like RejEx to the glass periodically and it'll help from the next spotting accident so it won't take as long to clean up.

Hope this helps.

 

Hi Moe,
Great thread. Thanks for all the great info. I have 2 questions.
1. I have a 'new to me' 03 911 that i now need to get on a detailing/washing schedule. I have had limited success with local detailing agencies. Sometimes I take my cars to them and they charge me 200 bucks and the car looks great. Other times they charge me $340 and the car looks 'ok'. I dont mind detailing the car myself, but i am unfamiliar with clay, which seems to be the industry standard now. I know to use a carnuba based wax, but the high end stuff for me has always been McGuires and Mothers.
Can you give me good instructions for clay treatment (if i need it) and waxing. I am guessing you have a good starter kit for me, keeping in mind I just bought a 9 year old car that was on the upper end of my budget and it is primarily a weekend driver.
2) my daily driver is an f350 KR with king ranch natural leather . its about 6 years old now, and the seats are quite faded, especially in the areas that get sun. I am thinking i need mink oil or something to give them back their color, but i dont want mink oil getting all over my clothes (well, i wouldnt care so much about my clothes, but my wife would!). I have tried various leather treatments and they clean the leather, but they do nothing for the leather itself to give it back its deep brown color. I would appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks
Scott

 

Moe -- i've got about a quarter sized smear of dried krazy glue on my 997. Color is standard black. What is the best way to remove without damaging the clearcoat? Gentle razor? Nailpolish remover? Prayer?

Thanks v much in advance.

 

1. Congrats on the Porsche Scott. Sorry to hear you're having mixed experiences with getting your car detailed. With the right technique and products, you can take care of your car yourself.

Claying is pretty simple, yet the end result is amazing. Clay is basically a piece of malleable plastic with quartz crystals in it. Depending on the size and shape of those particles, you'll have a fine or aggressive clay. We recommend using the LUmere Medium Clay as it's one of the safest and most effective clays on the market. It works well for light claying on a clean car or medium claying on an oxidized or heavily contaminated car.

After washing and drying the vehicle, spray the clay lube on the paint and take the small disc of clay in the palm of your hand and begin rubbing the paint in long to medium passes from the windshield to the bumper. You will actually begin hearing and feeling the clay do it's job. When the surface becomes smoother and quieter, flip the clay to the cleaner side and switch direction to tire-tire. Once the surface is silent and smooth, you're done. Take a look at the clay and see all the contaminants you've picked up. Clean the clay by folding it back in itself until the clay is back to the small disc and is nice and gray again. Repeat this step on the whole car. When done claying, simply rinse the car again and dry and you're ready to polish.

Here's a great kit that has everything I just spoke of:

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...Wax-Kit/Detail

Remember...you MUST polish and/or wax after claying.

2. The most important thing to remember about leather is to clean and hydrate. We recommend using Lumiere Leather Cleaner to deep clean the leather first. Simply spray the cleaner, agitate with soft horse-hair brush, then wipe clean with mf towel.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...natural/Detail

Then you can condition with a simple product like Sonax Leather Foam. Spray foam on GP Red CCS Applicator, allow to sit for a few hours, then wipe the leather smooth and even with Sonax Dashboard Cleaner.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...er-Foam/Detail

If you want to deep condition the hide, use leatherique. Be prepared to spend a few days to do it right, but you'll be rewarded with amazing results.

Here's a great kit selection for this:

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...its/Categories

Hope this helps.

 

Yikes! This is a first.

I would first try using a mild-medium polish like Menzerna Power Finish or Super Intensive. That should do the trick.

If not, clay, then do the above.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

Moe,

I searched the thread and did not find where this had been asked. What is the best way to clean the carbon deposits off the OE chrome exhaust tips on my 997? I've tried oven cleaner with very little success.

Thanks,
Wes

 

Wes, very simple...use P21S Polishing Soap and ditch the oven cleaner

If it's really bad, P21S polishing shoap and OOOO steel wool.

Either way, follow up with P21S Finish Restorer and it'll look like new.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...p-metal/Detail

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...r-metal/Detail

Let me know if there's anything else.

 

I have a 458 Italia and a california that i am in the process of detailing and they both have heavy water spots on the inner jamb plastic liners of the hoods. I have attempted to use auto magic water spot remover with no luck. Please help

 

Have you tried using a polish like Menzerna Power Finish?

Are you talking about the textured black area pr the actual seam channels.

Mab you can take a picture for me.

 

Hi Moe

I was refilling my cr when I noticed two things

1. The color of the new resin is black the first round of resin was tan. Did I get the correct stuff?
2. The original filters where half full each. Should I use 1 bag per filter or a half of a bag? I am not sure if I can fit all of one bag in the filter. Seems like one bag is a little too much.

Thanks again
Alex

 

Alex, great questions...

1. The color of resin changes from time to time based on suppliers of the resin. As long as you put in new resin, meter goes back to 000, you're good.

2. Fill up the cartridge until it reaches the very top. Keep tapping to pack in more resin. You'll have a very tiny bit of resin left, just keep adding to it and eventually it'll make a whole bag

 

He Moe,
I think I am still a little confused of all the steps in polishing.
Here is what I am doing:

Wash

Clay

Flex on speed of 5 with Super Intensive Polish and orange pad (only if very visible scratches) I also have the wool pad if I ever need it (when would I?)

Flex on speed of 4 with Super Finish and white pad

Flex on speed of 3 with P21S Paintwork Cleanser and red pad

Then carnuba wax as final; was able to figure how to use the Flex and red pad.

Am I on the right track?

 

Yes...correct sequence. You may want to crank up the flex to 5.5 with SIP.

You'd use the purple wool if the orange pad gets you 80% of the way, on your test panel before you do the rest of the car, but there are still imperfections. You'd then want to follow up with orange and SIP.

Paintowrk Cleanser is only needed if you plan on applying a carnauba. If using synthetic wax, you can just go straight to wax after white pad and super finish.

How did you get the carnuaba on the red pad.

 

Great, at least i am on the right path!!
As for the carnuba with the Flex:
I pulled the whole slab of wax out of the container and then was able to rub it directly on the red pad. It worked well and I like the ease of use with the Flex.