hey moe,
I wanted to get my whole car wrapped in vinyl and was wondering what kind of exterior detailing I should go through to prep my car for a vinyl wrap.

 

Keep it simple. You need to make sure the vinyl is going on a clean substrate for a few reasons. Any contaminants trapped under the film can cause degradation to the integrity of the paint. When you want to remove the vinyl down the road, it's easier if the surface underneath was prepped properly.

Wash the outside and then follow the trinity; clay, polish, and wax. When waxing though, a spray wax is all you'll need. Hope this answers your question.

 

any particular spray wax you recommend for vinyl wrapping?
also would it be better if I just wash and polish the car? wouldn't the adhesive have a more "stable" and "firm" surface to adhere to?

hope you understand the question

 

The problem with not waxing prior to the film is when you attempt to take it off again, it becomes very difficult. A spray wax, like einszett Spray Wax, gives just enough wax to make things easier, but not enough to hinder the adhesion of the vinyl.

 

How to deal with environmental car damage? and how to start up a car detail biz?

... can I get the shirt now?

 

Can you please be more specific about the environmental car damage. What area are you concerned with.

As for starting a detailing business, that can be a long explanation. The best advice I'd give is find a niche you want to go after and focus on it. Some go after volume, some after quality, and other are in between. Once you realize what niche you want to serve, reverse engineer.

 

I'm being general, like how soon you have to clean a bird droppings to if there is any driving habits that helps prevent chip marks.

I guess my "niche" would be quality since I'm just starting it and have no one yet working under moi!

Ooh one more Q, let's say you have done the polishing n waxing n etc and you take it out in the light and bam you see swirl marks, how do you get rid of 'em? Does clay bar-ing cause microscratches?

 

Bird dropping need to be removed as soon as you see them. This can safely be done using a microfiber towel and a detail spray. Spray the detail spray directly on the dropping allowing it to soften. Then, spray the towel as well and gently begin wiping the dropping turning your towel after every wipe to expose a clean surface.

There really isn't a way you can drive to minimize rock chips. A clear film is your answer if you're concerned about this topic.

If you're going after quality and the high-end niche, you must spend lots of time working your way up to this point. Experience is your ally. This can only be achieved with time. As time goes, you'll build a name and reputation, a skill level that can reward you with higher-end cars, and respect of your peers. Just focus on doing your best, never stop learning, and keep pushing the envelope.

If you polish, pull the car out in the sun, and see swirls, you need to repolish using correct pad/polish combo. Each situation varies, so I can't give you a one size-fits all routine. Get yourself some halogen lights, read our threads here and other detailing boards, watch videos, and perfect your technique.

Depending on what clay you use, yes, claying can cause micromarring. Use the least aggressive clay to do the job.

Good questions.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgalt
Hi Moe,

It was suggested on another forum on this site that I pose the question in the detailing forum:

I'm getting ready to clay bar some of the crap out of the paint finish. Thereafter the plan is to do the full three step of wax and then polish. However, the car has a 3M shield on the front. Obviously you can't clay bar that, but what do you do about wax or polish? Or, just leave it alone?

I actually DO clay the film. It depends on the quality and grit of the clay. If you use too harsh of a clay, it will scratch the film. I use Zymol Lehm Klay 3. It is aggressive enough to effectively remove contaminants, but it's gentle enough that it won't scratch the film or the paint finish.

You can also polish and wax the film as well. Use a mild polish like Menzerna Super Finish, or a paint cleanser from P21S or Zymol. As for waxing, make sure whatever wax you use does not contain yellow carnauba. I use Zymol Field Glaze to wax the film.

So treat the film just as you woulf paint. Use the right products, and you'll be fine.

Great questions. Rep points...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by genew
Hey Moe..I followed your post on detailing the new porsche and have read most of your other posts but I am confused. On most of these posts you are using zymol products and now you aren't. On the new car you used all hand buffing and not the flex. I am wondering if you use the flex can you use any polish including Zaino or do you use menzerna and follow up with menzerna?? On the final coat with menzerna do you use the flex or hand?? I understand menzerna is formulated for the flex?? Do you use it around doors, etc, and in tight places by hand?? Was wondering if you reached your group buy on the flex?? I had left word but didn't hear back. Thanks. One last question..if you don't use the flex, what line of wax or products are you using now??
Gene

New cars, if untouched by unskilled detailers, don't need to be machine polishes most of the time. The foundation is laid on decontaminating the paint with clay, a good paint cleanser to bring out the color, and a wax to protect.

You can use the flex with any polish from any manufacturer. You can also use it to apply wax. You simply need the correct pad/polish combo. Menzerna is simply a polish company and formulates polishes for many industries. They didn't make a polish for the flex exclusively, rather, made polishes for OEM automotive manufacturers that have trickled down to the detailing industry.

You can use various polishes and pads to get into the tightest places.

We did meet our group buy on the flex. Did you try and get in, but couldn't? If so, call me and we'll get you taken care of.

 

Great questions guys....keep them coming and you could be the next winner to sport your GP hat or golf polo.

 

Hey Moe, have a question on taping. I have seen a lot of finished product on cars showing off their hard work and excellent results but I would really like to see a photo of a car prepped for polishing ( taped ). I am not sure just what needs to be taped and what doesn't.

Have been that not much tape needs to be used and have been told to tape everything. Always thought that one picture is worth a thousand words. Do you happen to have a photo on file of a car ready for polishing? Thanks.
Gene

 

just because I like quick answers from anyone, I will post up a couple taping pics for the question guy...if need be take it down should this be only a thread for MOE to answer....





basically, you want to tape up any trim you dont want polish to stain, tear up, or abrade! the clear bra on the hood and the sides were taped up because I was using a medium compound and didnt want to chew up the film! The tape creates a boundary line where you STOP before running over it! some will make the tape line about 1.5" thick either with 3 small strips or one larger roll!

hope that helps a little

 

Sorry...

 

The tape you want to be using is the 3M Delicate tape...it's the blue tape with the orange label. This tape is soft, the glue doesn't stick to rubber, and it's easy to contour the curves.

The main reason taping is important, for the DIYer using a a flex or pc, is because we don't want to get polish on the black rubber. Polishing on bare rubber not only gets the polish on the rubber which can discolor it, but it also makes your pad dirty as you pull off the light oxidized layer on the rubber.

What I try and do to make this monotinous task more fun, is tape the car with as few seams as possible. By this I mean if you're taping the rubber around your windshield, try and do it with one long piece without breaking the tape as you go around corners. Like I said, I'm OCD and even the taping has to look perfect.

Se here are some of tape jobs:

It was tough to get the 2" tape around corners, and this wasn't the delicate tape. But I did well around the window, not so good around the door/fender where the clear film edge was.



This was to prep this GT2 for its 80 mile drive from Austin TX to San Antonio TX to get the clear bra installed at the XPEL Factory







It's always about the smallest detail. Any exposed edge that I'd miss means I'd have to fix later. With this Phantom, my concerns was making sure not to hit the chrome with any polish since that could scratch it






I had to tape the right side of the center nose piece on this Enzo to get close into the edges without the concern of burning the thin Ferrari paint



After Picture



Hope this gives you an idea Gene. This is a lot like taping when you paint...all about the prep work.

Great question.