Detailing Paint, body, detailing and waxing.

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  #91  
Old 06-10-2009 | 04:55 PM
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Thumbs up Question on taping!!

Thanks Moe, really appreciate it!!
Gene
 
  #92  
Old 06-10-2009 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by genew
Thanks Moe, really appreciate it!!
Gene
You're welcome...glad it helped.
 
  #93  
Old 07-01-2009 | 03:43 AM
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einszett Perls shampoo

Hi Moe,

I just received my order of wash supplies and gave my new car it's much needed first wash. I have a question about the Perls shampoo, which I got. I used the proportions on the label (4 capfuls in ~2 gallons of water). The suds were low to the point that there were none visible on the panels after washing (it lathered a bit in the bucket but not much). Is that how it should look? Or should I do something different? Thanks.
 
  #94  
Old 07-01-2009 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by treeman
Hi Moe,

I just received my order of wash supplies and gave my new car it's much needed first wash. I have a question about the Perls shampoo, which I got. I used the proportions on the label (4 capfuls in ~2 gallons of water). The suds were low to the point that there were none visible on the panels after washing (it lathered a bit in the bucket but not much). Is that how it should look? Or should I do something different? Thanks.
You should be using a bit more. I usually use about an ounce or two. It also depends on how hard your water is. The harder your water, the more soap you'll need.

A tool like a TDS meter from a local hardware store or Petsmart will come in handy to find out how hard your water is.
 
  #95  
Old 07-22-2009 | 01:06 PM
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Hi, why is it important to warm up your leather in the sun or with an dryer 10-15 before applying any leather condition or care?
 
  #96  
Old 07-22-2009 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Linko4
Hi, why is it important to warm up your leather in the sun or with an dryer 10-15 before applying any leather condition or care?
I happened to see this and leather care is one of my specialties, so I thought that I would answer as well as whatever Moe may have to say.

From what I understand, the purpose of working on warm leather is to help open up the pores of the leather so that they will soak up more of the vital oils and nutrients from the product you are applying. It also makes the leather a bit more pliable so as you work the product in, you are able to move the leather around more and expose more of the surface area to the conditioner.

The system I use (leatherique) actually has you apply the Rejuvinator (conditioner) to the leather first and then encourages letting it sit in the sun or some warm area to help this process happen. The leather soaks up the nutrients and pushes the dirt and grime and body oils to the surface where they can easily be wiped off usine Prestine Clean later.

Hope that helps a little!

Curious to see what Moe has to say as well!

D!
 
  #97  
Old 07-22-2009 | 01:32 PM
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Thanks D!tailed. I had an assumption of what you have say early, but I wasn't sure, so I ask. Since you filled the information I need, I finally understand why it is very important to work on leather in the sun or with a warm blow dryer. Thanks again.

I wonder what Moe would say too, or any one else!
 
  #98  
Old 07-22-2009 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Linko4
Thanks D!tailed. I had an assumption of what you have say early, but I wasn't sure, so I ask. Since you filled the information I need, I finally understand why it is very important to work on leather in the sun or with a warm blow dryer. Thanks again.

I wonder what Moe would say too, or any one else!
My pleasure!
 
  #99  
Old 07-22-2009 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by D!Tailed
I happened to see this and leather care is one of my specialties, so I thought that I would answer as well as whatever Moe may have to say.

From what I understand, the purpose of working on warm leather is to help open up the pores of the leather so that they will soak up more of the vital oils and nutrients from the product you are applying. It also makes the leather a bit more pliable so as you work the product in, you are able to move the leather around more and expose more of the surface area to the conditioner.

The system I use (leatherique) actually has you apply the Rejuvinator (conditioner) to the leather first and then encourages letting it sit in the sun or some warm area to help this process happen. The leather soaks up the nutrients and pushes the dirt and grime and body oils to the surface where they can easily be wiped off usine Prestine Clean later.

Hope that helps a little!

Curious to see what Moe has to say as well!

D!
You think the same goes for coated leather?
 
  #100  
Old 07-22-2009 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan1
You think the same goes for coated leather?
I think that with coated leather, you may not get the same effect and get as deeply into the pores, but especially around the stitching, the conditioner would be able to move its way laterally into the leather through the perforations caused by the stitching. And from my chemistry days, I believe that this would be facilitated more quickly and thoroughly if the leather was more warm and pliable.

And the heat would also help get any of the cleaners into the coating on the leather as well to help remove some of the surface oils.

Contrary to what some believe, I am of the understanding that even coated leather needs conditioning to stay looking its best over the long haul.

D!
 
  #101  
Old 07-22-2009 | 06:13 PM
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The other perspective, like you mentioned, is coated leather does not need to be conditioned. If the coating is not permeable, than it doesn't have pores to open up. That would not be good if that did happen as dirt and oils would get into the leather and be hard to remove. I believe the most important maintenance for coated leather is proper cleaning and protection with water based products, not necessarily conditioning. I think the conditioner tends to sit on top of the coating, attracting dust, and the majority of it just evaporates. I guess no one really knows for sure.
 
  #102  
Old 07-22-2009 | 06:22 PM
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I believe that the conditioner would still permeate the leather through the holes in the leather around the seams and stitching.

The Leatherique system I use has you apply the conditioner first to permeate the leather (as much as it can depending on whether or not it is coated) then you follow up with a cleaning process that would remove any excess, so I think you would be good.

D!
 
  #103  
Old 07-22-2009 | 06:46 PM
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I don't if all leather conditioner attracts dust, or just stay on a top coat on the leather, but I have seen some doesn't gloss or too slippery.

Did I win a t-shirt yet? hahaha
 
  #104  
Old 07-22-2009 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by D!Tailed
I believe that the conditioner would still permeate the leather through the holes in the leather around the seams and stitching.

The Leatherique system I use has you apply the conditioner first to permeate the leather (as much as it can depending on whether or not it is coated) then you follow up with a cleaning process that would remove any excess, so I think you would be good.

D!
Wasn't the Leatherique system originally designed for non- coated leather?
 
  #105  
Old 07-22-2009 | 08:38 PM
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Your questions was answered as it relates to why warm up the leather. You must remember, the leather should really only get to be as warm as your body temp. You don't want to actually apply the conditioner in the sun. As long as it's warm to the touch, you're in the ball park.

As for coated and non-coated leather, I honestly cannot tell you they react differently. IMHO, you'd be foolish not to clean and condition your leather on a routine basis. It's like saying your car has a clear coat, so no need to wax it. Your body oils, lotions, dirt, etc. begin to wear down the leather no matter which type of hide you have. So, just remember to routinely clean and condition the leather and you don't have to worry about it aging or cracking on you.
 


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