Wax removal from crevices
#1
Wax removal from crevices
Didn't do such a great job taping off the moldings and clear bra and now I have dried wax at the clear bra edges and panel crevices. What's the best way to get that out. It looks like crap!
#2
Depending on the severity, you have a few choices.
If it is just light stuff, not heavy amounts of wax at all of the crevices, then you will need a few rudimentary tools. A damp MF towel, and a toothpick. The toothpick is for the wax that is on the edges of the clear bra. Don't use a lot of pressure, very very light pressure, and that should remove it. The damp MF towel can be used to remove it from the crevices in the panel gaps.
If it isn't coming off using either of those, my favorite way is to use the 1Z Plastic Cleaner.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...C-vinyl/Detail
It was designed to remove dried on wax and oxidation from moldings, so it works well on removing it from the moldings and everything else as well. Just spray a small amount on a MF towel, and go over all of your edges. It should remove everything easily.
Now keep in mind when doing this that it is probably removing the wax protection from that area altogether, so you will have to reapply your wax, but do it slowly and carefully so you don't have to worry about removing the excess again.
In the case that it is really bad, I mean really bad, then you will want to go with the P21s Total Auto Wash and a soft bristled brush, something like the Swissvax Brush.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...to-wash/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...C-wheel/Detail
You will want to make sure to hit all your panel gaps, door jambs, fuel filler door, engine cover, hood, vents, emblems, moldings, etc. with the Total Auto Wash. Do it once the car has been rinsed once, and the paint is cool, you can let it sit on everything for a minute to do its magic. Agitate everything with the brush to loosen up the dried on wax, and everything else, then rinse and go about your normal washing procedures. This should loosen up and remove all of the dried on wax that was left. Remember that this is also going to remove all of your surface protection, so you are going to have to re-apply.
Hopefully it isn't that bad, as that is obviously the extreme step. I am sure that just the damp MF towel, toothpick, and some patience should do the trick just fine, if not just a few sprays with the Plastic Cleaner should fix everything else that ails you. The P21s should be a last resort if you happened to get wax everywhere, because although it works great at removing it, it does such a great job that you are doubling your work having to re-apply all the wax again as soon as you are finished anyway.
If it is just light stuff, not heavy amounts of wax at all of the crevices, then you will need a few rudimentary tools. A damp MF towel, and a toothpick. The toothpick is for the wax that is on the edges of the clear bra. Don't use a lot of pressure, very very light pressure, and that should remove it. The damp MF towel can be used to remove it from the crevices in the panel gaps.
If it isn't coming off using either of those, my favorite way is to use the 1Z Plastic Cleaner.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...C-vinyl/Detail
It was designed to remove dried on wax and oxidation from moldings, so it works well on removing it from the moldings and everything else as well. Just spray a small amount on a MF towel, and go over all of your edges. It should remove everything easily.
Now keep in mind when doing this that it is probably removing the wax protection from that area altogether, so you will have to reapply your wax, but do it slowly and carefully so you don't have to worry about removing the excess again.
In the case that it is really bad, I mean really bad, then you will want to go with the P21s Total Auto Wash and a soft bristled brush, something like the Swissvax Brush.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...to-wash/Detail
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...C-wheel/Detail
You will want to make sure to hit all your panel gaps, door jambs, fuel filler door, engine cover, hood, vents, emblems, moldings, etc. with the Total Auto Wash. Do it once the car has been rinsed once, and the paint is cool, you can let it sit on everything for a minute to do its magic. Agitate everything with the brush to loosen up the dried on wax, and everything else, then rinse and go about your normal washing procedures. This should loosen up and remove all of the dried on wax that was left. Remember that this is also going to remove all of your surface protection, so you are going to have to re-apply.
Hopefully it isn't that bad, as that is obviously the extreme step. I am sure that just the damp MF towel, toothpick, and some patience should do the trick just fine, if not just a few sprays with the Plastic Cleaner should fix everything else that ails you. The P21s should be a last resort if you happened to get wax everywhere, because although it works great at removing it, it does such a great job that you are doubling your work having to re-apply all the wax again as soon as you are finished anyway.
#3
Thanks for the response!
Toothpick? The thought of using a sharp wooden object to 'scrape' something off the paint is not very appealing.
Was looking for something to just spray on and wipe away. Sounds like the einzett may do the trick. Thanks again!
Toothpick? The thought of using a sharp wooden object to 'scrape' something off the paint is not very appealing.
Was looking for something to just spray on and wipe away. Sounds like the einzett may do the trick. Thanks again!
#5
So don't stress. It won't scratch if you don't push hard, you shouldn't have to push at all. Just light pressure, that's all it takes I promise.
If you are worried about it, just try the damp MF towel or towel with the Plastic Cleaner first, and if that doesn't work then you can try the toothpick.
#7
noticed this thread, question to the detail gurus, whats the time interval that you should have your car waxed? I get it washed usually 1 time a week, just wondering how often to wax
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#8
The easiest way is to walk around your car when it is freshly washed, and pour water on a few different surfaces. If the water beads up cleanly, then you are probably ok. If it sheets and drags against the surface rather than running off or beading, then you probably need to re-apply your surface protection.
There isn't a set timeframe, how fast your surface protection lasts depends on your environment, if it is hot, cold, if you drive it in the rain, if it is garaged, etc. The water test should give you a pretty good idea though.
There isn't a set timeframe, how fast your surface protection lasts depends on your environment, if it is hot, cold, if you drive it in the rain, if it is garaged, etc. The water test should give you a pretty good idea though.
#9
Scrape is definitely not the right word. That is why I said light pressure... as in LIGHT PRESSURE. It won't scratch the clear if you don't push on it. All it needs to do is loosen the wax from the seam on the clear bra.
So don't stress. It won't scratch if you don't push hard, you shouldn't have to push at all. Just light pressure, that's all it takes I promise.
If you are worried about it, just try the damp MF towel or towel with the Plastic Cleaner first, and if that doesn't work then you can try the toothpick.
So don't stress. It won't scratch if you don't push hard, you shouldn't have to push at all. Just light pressure, that's all it takes I promise.
If you are worried about it, just try the damp MF towel or towel with the Plastic Cleaner first, and if that doesn't work then you can try the toothpick.
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