My father just purchased a 2003 996 carrera. It looked great in photos and when inspecting it. Well brought it home and after looking closely the black paint is swirled a good bit. Not near as bad as the turbo x50 cab that detailersdomain posted on here , so i am unsure how strong of products i need. here is the car

http://www.auctionadmin.com/ImgViewe...D=461875&pic=2

I am shopping on detailers domain and this is what i came up with:



porter cable 7424xp da polisher
Flexible backing plate (does the polisher come with a backing plate?)

uber foam pads (orange for correction, blue for final polish, and black for glanz wax) , do i need yellow pads for swirl removal?

1z glanz wax , is this a good wax for a black car?

Ok mainly unsure of which polishes
meguires m105 like in the x50 cab detail or do i need something with less cut since i do not have major correction to do? sip, m105, or?

Since its black i think i need a final polish , thinking menzerna po85d or meguires m205.

then of course microfiber towels for removal of wax and polishes. and clay bar.

I greatly appreciate any help or advice you have to offer. I have experience detailing , but this is my first attempt at "corecting" a finish and i am starting on a black car

also , is there any current promo codes at detailersdomain?

thanks,
chris

 

What I use on almost all my cars is PC 7424, 5.5" pads Orange/SIP for correction (if it isn't too bad), then follow up with White/SIP or White/Nano. If it needs that final 'pop', i'll use black/Nano for a final jeweling. I wax with Pinnacle Souveran and this process has never let me down except requiring some more passes of Orange/SIP when i did my wife's Mini Cooper S.

 

On black after 105 you will need to follow up with 205. Then after you'll need a true dedicated finishing polish to "jewel" the paint. I'd recommend PO85RD.

 

is the meguires 105/205 the best combo? i googled 205 and saw a post on audiworld i think. someone just used 205 on a gunmetal gray car and removed all swirls and went straight to wax. maybe 105 is too strong for the swirl correction i need? I thought 205 would be the last step as its a final polish?

 

Is there a way you can post a picture of the car? Direct sun is best or dark garage with a flash. If you use 105, you must finish with 205. There are many other variables too, but best thing to do is post a picture up and we can better assess your situation.

 

I will try to get a picture today , there is several in the link above but they are not really good to see the swirls. Is there something besides 105 you would recommend ? i'm really not too sure i need that much cut. Also, I imagine the car will be much worse after stripping any wax or glaze the dealer put on. After correction , will probably never need something as strong as 105 as it should be very taken care of from now on. would you recommend a sealer before glanz wax?

 

here are the pictures from the ad that show the paint condition somewhat if you look at the sun reflection

 

 

If $$ and budget is an issue, I understand....and we can get you the pc if you'd like.

Here's an important FYI one of our techs, Jon, posted regarding flex vs. pc on another forum:

The Flex has a 7.5 amp motor, in comparison to the 4.5amp which the G110 and the Porter Cable. The working range of Oscillations Per Minute on the Porter Cable and the G110 is just as wide as the Flex, but lower. The G110 has a slowest speed of about 1800, the Porter Cable is 2500. Those are both slower than the Flex which has a slowest speed of 3200. That is a benefit for both of those machines if you are using it for wax application, where slower is definitely better. On the high end however, which is the speed that you require for removing more defects, the highest speed of the PC or the Meguiars is roughly 6800 or so, whereas the Flex goes all the way to 9600.

The Flex also has a forced rotation, which means that if you apply pressure to it, it will continue to rotate rather than just orbit, that aids in its corrective ability. The Meguiars unit has what they call "cruise control" which is probably the same thing, I haven't used it, but their product description says that it will continue to work even under applied pressure, so it could be similar.

The bottom line in comparison of simple numbers, is that the Flex is considerably more powerful than the other two. Its layout is also a little bit better. It has a trigger for a speed control, which is great. It is laid out a lot like a rotary, so it is really user friendly. The Porter Cable and the Meguiars both have a simple on or off switch with a speed control. So they are great for use with one hand, but for using two it is a little more difficult.

I would really judge them all on their ability to be a complete and functional tool. The Flex is easy to use, doesn't have a steep learning curve, and is extremely capable as a tool. Even doing our full paint correction details, we still heavily rely on the Flex because of its ability to due the job while severely minimizing the risk of damaging the paint surface. It corrects well, finishes great, and takes a lot of the stress and thought out of the polishing process. From the first time that I used it I thought that it was the best tool for the DIYer, and two years later, after countless hours using it, I can't possibly agree any more.

Here are some member responses:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post2718540

As for polishes and pads, we prefer the menzerna line and lake country pads. Menzerna SIP and Super Finish are basically industry standard for the professionals. The learning curve is small compared to 105/205. We've done hundreds of cars with the menzerna/lake country pad combo and all the results have been outstanding. I'd prefer to see you using that. Once you polish, you can go straight to glanz, by hand or by machine.

Let us know your thoughts.

 

OK...based on the front shot of the fender, you'll need either 105 or Menzerna SIP to get rid of those imperfections. The great thing about Menzerna SIP is that it won't be obsolete after this detail. You'll find yourself using it to take care of small scuffs, polishing headlights, polishing inside door handles, etc.

 

which pads would you recommend? I think i am going to go with the sip , as the meguires seems best for a fast job with a rotary from reviews as it drys quick. which polish would go well with the sip? I am looking at the griots garage polisher , same price as the pc , but redesigned with 7 amp motor, the pc has 4.5 and the flex is 7.5. maybe the griots garage is more powerful. i am trying to stay close to $200-250 for everything.

 

This Porter Cable + Meg's polishing package will get you everything you need within your budget. For maximum results with a PC, you'll want to turn to the Meguiar's polishes. Reason being, the non-diminishing abrasives allow you to continue to cut and correct more by simply adding more pressure. The 7424XP has plenty of power and many professionals don't turn to their rotary buffers as much anymore because the PC / Meg's polish combo is so effective. The 5.5" pads are a perfect size for the PC. I don't think you'll see as good of results (on a PC) with something like SIP because it utilizes diminishing abrasives and to really make that type of polish shine you need the power of a rotary or Flex. Also, here's a good read on how to get the most out of the M105/M205 combo on a PC.

My $.02

 

The concern i had with m105 is that i read it drys quickly and is no longer usable. I am probably just reading into this too much and they will probably both get the job done some way lol.

 

This is why you have to prime you pad with M105 and you don't with the Menzerna polishes. The Menzerna polishes, I get the best results when you use as little polish as possible, complete opposite with the Meg's polishes. Read over that how-to I sent and it goes into more depth on why and how you prime your pad for polishing using the Meg's polishes.

Hope that helps.

 

Give a man a fish, you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, you feed him for a lifetime.

There is a value to that accomplishing something on your own has, which can't really be quantified. I understand that it seems like an investment from the get to to buy all the materials to do everything yourself, and it is. But the difference between the Flex and the PC is pretty big, big enough to justify the difference in the cost.

We aren't just on this forum to sell stuff. It is true that we do sell things, and we promote our products, but that isn't as much of a means to an end for us, as it is us providing the means to an end for you.

I would guess that on roughly 70% of our details, and likely 100% of our paint corrections, we are asked by our customers "how did you do that?" We sell what we do, and offer what we do here on the forum to supply those answers.

What what Moe already suggested, the Flex with SIP and an Orange pad, and then Super Finish on a White CCS pad, is likely the exact same combo and the exact same procedure that we would undertake if we were doing the correction for you. So it isn't just a suggestion on products to purchase, but an outline of how we would personally correct your problem.

It is true that the Flex does cost more, and that you are spending more. It is true that you MIGHT be able to get someone to do a paint correction on the car and get it detailed for that price, but maybe not. If you ask Phil, or Moe, or any of the other detailers on this forum if they think that a full detail with a paint correction would only cost $400, they will all say no. There is a reason for that, it is more work than that. Someone who only charges that much is likely to not have as much in common with everyone on this forum that would give you that answer, why that is, is a question that you have to ask yourself.

So when it comes down to the nuts and bolts of any purchase, the "why should I buy this?" Whether it is a detail, or the tools and materials needed to do it yourself. Ask, do you want to give a man a fish, or teach a man to fish?