I have a basalt black 997, and I'm wondering which of the following two options will give me a deeper shine:

1. Two coats of Jetseal and then one coat of Swissvax
2. One coat of Swissvax

I'm looking for maximum depth in my paint, so I suppose what I'm asking is whether the sealant layer will detract from the depth provided by a quality carnauba wax. The protection of the sealant appeals to me, but so does the depth of the carnauba. If the application of wax on top of the sealant still provides the same appearance as the wax alone, then I suppose I get the best of both worlds.

Maybe I would be just as happy with the sealant alone since I still have a fairly untrained eye (I'm not sure I could discern between the hard shine of a sealant and the deep shine of a carnauba).

Any wisdom you could impart upon me would be appreciated.

 

From what I understand, one coat of CG Jetseal will provide a durable base layer, which by itself some are more than happy with as a stand alone. But adding a few layers of wax will only intensify the depth/gloss. I use the same combo (JS and Zuffenhausen). I unfortunately applied it in the opposite order so mine has not lasted very long (yes, I'm a dumbass). But next go around, it'll be one coat of JS followed by 2 (or more) layers of Zuffenhausen.

 

thanks for the response. any excuse to use more swissvax - that stuff smells so good I'm usually tempted to eat it (especially when you apply it by hand).

 

^^Haha! I said the exact same thing when I posted about my experience with it!

 

BTW, here it is.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ing-foray.html

 

for maximum depth and gloss take the sealant off and use the SV straight up.

 

before a friend of mine introduced me to it I never would have paid more than $50 for a tub of wax. but after I smelled it, I thought I'd pay an extra hundred for the scent. makes the job much more enjoyable.

 

Really?? I stand corrected. Can't argue with the pro's I guess
I'm still gonna do JS followed by SV next time around. The longevity of the wax alone is just too short.

 

wow, that looks amazing. the 6th picture (directly at the rear wheel arch) really shows an immaculate shine.

btw, that's a sick car, brother. let me know if you ever think of selling it, since I know you take good care of it. the turbo was a bit out of my reach when I bought

 

Thanks! Detailing is a tough job. Rough on my aging self Even if the JS/SV combo isn't AS pretty, I'd rather have a bit more durability to the paint protection rather than have to repeat wax every 4-6 weeks. My body just can't take it
And I'll certainly let you know if I ever sell

 

is it really only 4-6 weeks? ouch. this is a once-every-3-months job when I'm doing it by hand, so I think I'll stick with the JS/SV combo (that's what my detailer put on before the winter anyway - I guess he's not as worthless as I thought). while I enjoy doing some of the work, reaching down for the lower parts of the car puts some miles on my back.

thanks for your help.

 

Why use a wax on top of a polymer sealant?
Some detailers find that a polymer sealant tends have a flat, silvered mirror look. Adding a Carnauba wax to the surface provides depth of shine, gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet look’) and a warmth to the paint surfaces overall look. Bear in mind that how a paint surface ‘looks’ is very subjective and tends to invoke an emotional reaction rather than a logical one 95% of an applied wax comprises out gassed solvent that is wiped away, whereas 65% of a polymer sealant that is applied remains.
Detailers who prepare show cars will often layer a Carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax; the synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking (jetting) appearance
Polymer sealants
Need a porous surface to bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then after a period in which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize (outgas) the polymers cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. This process usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and temperature and / or humidity dependent.
Note that drying and curing are two different processes. Drying generally refers to evaporation of the solvent or thinner, whereas curing (cross-linking) refers to polymerization of the binder, which imparts adhesion, binds the pigments together, and strongly influences such properties as gloss potential, exterior durability, flexibility, and toughness.
The majority (70%) of a polymer matrix cross-linking cycle occurs within 30 – 45 minutes of its initial wipe-on application drying; however it is recommended that a period of 12 - 24 hours is allowed for the cross-linking process to complete, otherwisepolymerizationand durability may be compromised

Although it should be noted that surface oils or silicone and / or moisture introduced before the cross-linking process is complete will interfere with the bonding of a polymer and will negatively affect its durability
When polymer chains are linked together extensively by chemical cross linking - the formation of covalent bonds between chains; the polymer is harder and more difficult to melt. Curing is required to allow the monomers (polymer building blocks) to attach to the surface and to polymerize into a crystal-clear, impervious film.
It is very important to allow polymers to cure for 12-24 hours after the haze has been wiped off. If the coating is exposed to contamination such as oil, rain, water, cleaners, etc. before it has cross-linked, the contaminants may interfere with the film, preventing the polymer from achieving its maximum performance and durability. A polymer, unlike wax forms a molecular bond with paint once it’s had enough time to cross-linking..
A unique aspect of polyurethane chemistry is that the hydrogen bonding acts as an additional crosslink, but also allows thermoplastic flow, which helps the paint surface to retain its elasticity and its tensile strength to relieve mechanical stress. The basic structure of a polyurethane clear coat features a soft segment (polyol or tetramethylene ether) which gives it flexibility and elasticity. There is also a hard segment (polymerization) that has high urethane density, which gives the coating hardness and tensile strength
Carnauba wax
Carnauba in today's wax formulas functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils on your car's surface. Only a small portion of your vehicle's shine comes from the wax itself. Carnauba is translucent at best with only minimal light reflection. It is among the hardest of natural waxes, being harder than concrete in its pure form
This sacrificial barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants and the paint film surface and this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ (100 nm, 0.000 4 Mils or 0.000 004 inch) thick. An applied paint protection product is the barrier that provides protection for automotive paintwork besides the clear coat paint.
An organic wax also provides a sacrificial surface that will resist acid (salt brine, bird excrement, acidic rain, etc) better than a polymer, which forms a molecular bond with the paint, whereas a an organic wax forms a semi-hard protective shell (although it lacks durability of a polymer)


An extract from one of a series of unbiased Detailing Technical Papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
I more than appreciate these articles are very technical in content and therefore will not appeal to every detailers level of knowledge or experience. But chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these.