Drying after wash
#4
I just got this huge towel from Target for under $10 from a company called Vroom. I love it....it works really well too. I only need the one for my whole car.
#7
Great question. This is such an overlooked area considering it's probably one of the MOST important aspect of detailing. Use a poor quality mf towel, and you'll introduce hairline scratches and swirls in the paint.
The ideal way is to use DI water and blow dry after washing. The DI water takes all the hard minerals and deposits out of the water and gives you pure water without any water spotting. If you use DI water, you can omit the drying of the car. Since there's no spotting, you let the car air dry. It takes a while, and in cold climates, probably not recommended.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...High%2C/Detail
So the next option is to use a mf drying cloth. There are many different kinds here and try and get one big enough to efficiently do the job and and don't skimp on the towel. A few bucks saved here can translate to hundreds later to be spent paying a detailer to polish your car. The drying cloth we use/sell actually comes with a foam core as well. Think of it as 2 mf towels sandwiching a foam core. This is great because it allows further absorption and you use less towels. It also buffers against pressing too firmly on the paint.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...Core%2C/Detail
The 3rd way, least evasive, is to use a blower. There are a few good options here, we use the Airmax. It's a very efficient dryer that also heats the ambient temp by about 40 degrees so it speeds up the whole drying process. These units are very powerful and have 2 motors in them. Great investment.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...max/Categories
Hope this helps answer your question.
The ideal way is to use DI water and blow dry after washing. The DI water takes all the hard minerals and deposits out of the water and gives you pure water without any water spotting. If you use DI water, you can omit the drying of the car. Since there's no spotting, you let the car air dry. It takes a while, and in cold climates, probably not recommended.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...High%2C/Detail
So the next option is to use a mf drying cloth. There are many different kinds here and try and get one big enough to efficiently do the job and and don't skimp on the towel. A few bucks saved here can translate to hundreds later to be spent paying a detailer to polish your car. The drying cloth we use/sell actually comes with a foam core as well. Think of it as 2 mf towels sandwiching a foam core. This is great because it allows further absorption and you use less towels. It also buffers against pressing too firmly on the paint.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...Core%2C/Detail
The 3rd way, least evasive, is to use a blower. There are a few good options here, we use the Airmax. It's a very efficient dryer that also heats the ambient temp by about 40 degrees so it speeds up the whole drying process. These units are very powerful and have 2 motors in them. Great investment.
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...max/Categories
Hope this helps answer your question.
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#8
I use to use the MF towels and noticed swirls and streaks. Got a DI system and use a my air blower and works great. The only thing is with my blower sometimes it emits a little water/liquid which leaves marks on the paint. Will look into the Airwax system.
ps. just did a search on airmax dryers. seems like they are made for dog groomers also? seems perfect for those with dogs
ps. just did a search on airmax dryers. seems like they are made for dog groomers also? seems perfect for those with dogs
Last edited by C4SxM5; 08-07-2010 at 11:08 AM.
#9
Caring for your Vehicle
Finding a proper washing and drying technique will help to avoid constantly correcting those paint defects. It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your new car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers. And you don’t let some kids in a high school fund raiser wash your car. Just give them a contribution for their cause and they’ll be just as happy.
And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either – especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques.Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser's, just give them the money and drive on, they won't be offended
Long-term paint care
· Regular washing (weekly) using a correct methodology, quality car wash concentrate, wash mitt and drying towels.
· Clean paint twice a year with detailing clay.
· Polish paint surface 3-4 times a year with a chemical cleaner ( non-abrasive).
· Only use an abrasive polish to remove serious scratches
· Protect paint 3-4 times a year with a quality paint sealant and / or wax.
Proper washing; pre-wash, using a foam gun followed by a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard or a Foam Cannon, use separate wash media and bucket for your wheels and the paint and when drying use water sheeting and / or air powered drying and a waffle weave micro fibre towel
Proper surface drying;this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface
These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive product first (working smarter not harder)
Finding a proper washing and drying technique will help to avoid constantly correcting those paint defects. It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your new car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers. And you don’t let some kids in a high school fund raiser wash your car. Just give them a contribution for their cause and they’ll be just as happy.
And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either – especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques.Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser's, just give them the money and drive on, they won't be offended
Long-term paint care
· Regular washing (weekly) using a correct methodology, quality car wash concentrate, wash mitt and drying towels.
· Clean paint twice a year with detailing clay.
· Polish paint surface 3-4 times a year with a chemical cleaner ( non-abrasive).
· Only use an abrasive polish to remove serious scratches
· Protect paint 3-4 times a year with a quality paint sealant and / or wax.
Proper washing; pre-wash, using a foam gun followed by a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard or a Foam Cannon, use separate wash media and bucket for your wheels and the paint and when drying use water sheeting and / or air powered drying and a waffle weave micro fibre towel
Proper surface drying;this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface
These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive product first (working smarter not harder)
#10
Caring for your Vehicle
Finding a proper washing and drying technique will help to avoid constantly correcting those paint defects. It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your new car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers. And you don’t let some kids in a high school fund raiser wash your car. Just give them a contribution for their cause and they’ll be just as happy.
And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either – especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques.Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser's, just give them the money and drive on, they won't be offended
Long-term paint care
· Regular washing (weekly) using a correct methodology, quality car wash concentrate, wash mitt and drying towels.
· Clean paint twice a year with detailing clay.
· Polish paint surface 3-4 times a year with a chemical cleaner ( non-abrasive).
· Only use an abrasive polish to remove serious scratches
· Protect paint 3-4 times a year with a quality paint sealant and / or wax.
Proper washing; pre-wash, using a foam gun followed by a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard or a Foam Cannon, use separate wash media and bucket for your wheels and the paint and when drying use water sheeting and / or air powered drying and a waffle weave micro fibre towel
Proper surface drying;this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface
These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive product first (working smarter not harder)
Finding a proper washing and drying technique will help to avoid constantly correcting those paint defects. It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your new car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers. And you don’t let some kids in a high school fund raiser wash your car. Just give them a contribution for their cause and they’ll be just as happy.
And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either – especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques.Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser's, just give them the money and drive on, they won't be offended
Long-term paint care
· Regular washing (weekly) using a correct methodology, quality car wash concentrate, wash mitt and drying towels.
· Clean paint twice a year with detailing clay.
· Polish paint surface 3-4 times a year with a chemical cleaner ( non-abrasive).
· Only use an abrasive polish to remove serious scratches
· Protect paint 3-4 times a year with a quality paint sealant and / or wax.
Proper washing; pre-wash, using a foam gun followed by a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard or a Foam Cannon, use separate wash media and bucket for your wheels and the paint and when drying use water sheeting and / or air powered drying and a waffle weave micro fibre towel
Proper surface drying;this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface
These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive product first (working smarter not harder)
Thanks any particular products that you use?
#11
I use to use the MF towels and noticed swirls and streaks. Got a DI system and use a my air blower and works great. The only thing is with my blower sometimes it emits a little water/liquid which leaves marks on the paint. Will look into the Airwax system.
ps. just did a search on airmax dryers. seems like they are made for dog groomers also? seems perfect for those with dogs
ps. just did a search on airmax dryers. seems like they are made for dog groomers also? seems perfect for those with dogs
#12
I've also noticed that w/ water softeners, there is less water on the surface. I'm assuming that is b/c the water is more "slick" and runs off the surface better. You can get some inexpensive in-line water softeners that work very well and dont take up any room.
Also, to help reduce the amount of water on the surface, you can use the "flooding" method. This, paired w/ one soft waffle weave drying towel should be sufficient.
And if it hasnt already been mentioned, do NOT use gas blowers to dry the vehicles
Also, to help reduce the amount of water on the surface, you can use the "flooding" method. This, paired w/ one soft waffle weave drying towel should be sufficient.
And if it hasnt already been mentioned, do NOT use gas blowers to dry the vehicles
#14
Must be missing something how does drying your car with a micro cloth make swirls? I use a hands off automated car wash (just soap water and air and NO brushes) and it blow drys the car and I just dry missed spots.
Last edited by Mother; 08-09-2010 at 01:46 PM.
#15
As for those touchless auto thingies, they don't require any contact with the car b/c the cleaning chemicals are quite harsh. Not doing your paint any favors by using them.