So, I just blew through my first batch of resin in my CR DIW-20. It took about 2 months of multiple weekly washings and using the DI water for just about everything (pre-rinse, foam, foam rinse, wash bucket, rinse bucket, final rinse, mixing with various products, etc., etc.), so I figure if I actually try to conserve it, it should last a good while for me.

It seems like the replacement resin bags contain more resin that will actually fill a canister? I ended up with both canisters filled near the top, and about 1/3 of a replacement bag still leftover.

Anyone else notice this? Do you just save the resin for the next refill?

Also, I read somewhere that people rotate the canisters...? Does that mean I don't need to replace BOTH canisters when the TDS gets too high? If not, do you replace the canister closest to the water intake?

Thanks in advance!

 

All the contents of the premeasured bags of resin WILL fit. It's a tight fit, but what you're probably not doing is settling the resin by tapping the bottoms of the cannisters.
Get a pressure washer if you already haven't and hook up your CR to a home water softener system (I really need to do this).

Not sure what rotating cannisters accomplishes??

 

It's a very tight fit, but each bag should fill one canister. Keep tapping it as bonehead has suggested and pack in the resin.

It seems you got the correct amount of uses with one refill. You should measure the TDS of the water going into the CR. To do so, just take both canisters out, run the water, and turn the meter on. Based on that, you can find out how many gallons of DI water you should expect.

Running it through a pre-filter or soft water filter doesn't do anything for the PPM count. Remember, DI water is an exchange of ion-for-ion not the particulates in water. Soft water is merely sodium and Chloride, basically salt water. It's less hard than tap water, but it's not the pure H2O that DI water is.

As for rotating the canisters, maybe you need to elaborate. The resin in the cr is mixed-bed. So not sure what rotating would do.

 

Yeah, I guess the "rotating" of canisters is nothing. I think the concept was to remove/refill 1 canister (I'm guessing the one closest to the intake), move the other old canister (from the Output line) to the intake-position, and then put the new refilled canister in the output-line. I guess the theory is that only 1 of the canisters is fully spent and that the other canister's resin might have a little life left in it.

Guess I'll just pack down the resin and fill 'em both up.

Thanks!

 

I use a pressure washer and I still go through the resin pretty quickly!

any deals on resin currently out there?

I noticed that detailer's domain stopped selling CRSpotless, I'm hoping that there aren't any probs with CRSpotless...

 

I did a recent search for resin and unless you're willing to source your own resin (I'm not chemically smart enough to do this), Moe has the best prices after tax/shipping/discounts, etc. You can wait until a sale at one of the other online dealers, but in terms of "regular pricing" for the bulk resin, Moe's was the cheapest.

I also read some way to chemically rejuvenate the resin but, yeah, I'm just going to buy the stuff from Moe and call it a day :P

 

Get this item and use your 6speed promo code:

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...acement/Detail

As for cr having problems, let's just say we have had no complaint in the last 4 years that we've been selling the unit as to it not working. It's the ONLY portable system that works, looks good doing it, and is backed by countless consumer satisfaction reviews. We use it daily and couldn't do without it.

 

You can determine the theoretical volume of DI water produced if you measure the TDS reading from the incoming water. That way, you will determine if your filter is working correctly.

 

To help maximize your resin- do not fill up your buckets with the DI water and dont clean your wheel wells, tires, and rims with it. Also keep the GPM around 1.5.

 

Unfortunately not an option in my area. Any unfiltered water that touches the car, regardless of the step, will instantly form hard water spots. Grrrrr.

 

I wouldn't recommend this as the amount of water needed in your soap bucket is usually around 1-2 gallons. You want more suds than you do water. So in a 5 gallons bucket, the suds should be overflowing. If you use tap water, you'll never get the same amount of suds as you would with DI water. Plus, DI water lets you use less soap since the water is more pure and it also makes the soap more effective since DI water is one of the purest waters you can get and water is the universal solvent.

As for wheels, I would say that would be an option. I think the trick is to use a pressure washer. Then, you can use CR all the way and don't have to worry as much about resin consumption. But if you're in an area with very hard water, I don't think there much help to extending the life of the resin short of using a pressure washer.

 

If you are using a grit guard than 2 gallons MAY JUST be enough for small cars. 1 gallon just barley goes above the grit guard. I find the difference in suds to be insignificant between the two types of water.

And based on how long the OP said his resin lasts, it sounds like he does not have hard water like I know bonehead has.

 

If you use the same amount of soap and compare DI water and tap water, unless you have super soft water, you WILL see a difference. It's scientifically impossible not to. Pure water vs. water with hard minerals and impurities...

 

Im not saying there isnt a difference, Im just saying that I dont believe its that important to have more suds than water in the bucket. There are many soaps out there that are designed to be low sudsing, including 1z Perls which is a fantastic soap. Using the correct ratio of soap: water is important.

Maybe you can explain why more suds than water in the bucket is important?

 

The way I maximize my resin is to use it ONLY for the rinse and stay out of direct sunlight. We have hard water here and I won't get spotting if I work quickly and use DI water in the final rinse.

Also of note, if you use a pressure washer and run DI water through it, you NEED to rinse the PW after you use DI. DI water is caustic on uncoated metal, such as brass which is used in the pumps and fittings. The DI water WILL oxidate the metal if not rinsed.

Some after market fitting in engine bays will oxidate if uncoated from the DI so look around, ask, before you shoot water in the bay.

Cheers,
GREG