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50 year old neglected paint - any hope?

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Old 02-08-2011 | 04:28 PM
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50 year old neglected paint - any hope?

So, an offhanded comment 5 years ago resulted in my being the owner of a 1961 Ford Falcon. This car is in remarkably good shape but is only worth about $10 due to being a 4dr 144ci granny special. All that being said, I am a little attached to it and since it rewarded a couple hours work by starting and running for me, I have decided to give it a little love and use it as my funny poke around the neighborhood car.

Here is what I have, what I know and what I want to know.

The car has pretty much been garaged it's entire life. Actually, garaged is a little strong, it was protected from direct exposure by being in an open ended barn:

The paint is pretty flat but is overall in decent shape.


So this weekend I pulled it out of my garage and gave it a good rinse and wash. As I was drying it, I could see some of the paint color transferring to my drying cloth.

So, what can I do to try and preserve what I've got without wiping the existing paint off? I'm not looking for a return to showroom shine, but I would like to preserve what is still here.

Thanks.

Tal
 
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Old 02-08-2011 | 05:07 PM
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I've never had an experience with paint that old but you said that the paint transferred onto the cloth. My guess is that once you correct the finish you will want to spray a fresh clearcoat on it.
 
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Old 02-08-2011 | 07:00 PM
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Well it's definitely worth a shot. The paint looks correctable to me, since it is lacquer paint. Find a good local professional, or pick up a Cyclo, some Menzerna polish and Lake Country polishing pads and do it yourself. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.


John
 
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Old 02-08-2011 | 08:25 PM
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That is a unique Barn Find Since it's been somewhat sheltered from the elements, a simple detail might get you where you want to go. Give her a good bath, and use our Intermediate Wax Kit:

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...Wax-Kit/Detail

It won't break the bank and it was designed to be used by hand. This way, you're using some great products with the proper technique to get the ball rolling. This process will remarkably improve the condition of this classic. Once you feel more comfortable, or inclined to step it up a notch, get our flex kit. That'll really take the paint to the next level.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...sh-Kits/Detail

Either way, can't wait to see what you end up doing. Take lots of pictures and show us the final results.
 
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Old 02-08-2011 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by apexit1
I've never had an experience with paint that old but you said that the paint transferred onto the cloth. My guess is that once you correct the finish you will want to spray a fresh clearcoat on it.
It's most likely oxidized paint. Paint back then was a single stage and it can be brought back to life with the right technique and products.
 
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Old 02-08-2011 | 10:23 PM
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I hope to find a 62 Ford Falcon deluxe, Great car you have there! Good luck with the project
 
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Old 02-09-2011 | 03:57 AM
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Single stage paints include "Acrylic Enamel (most common), Acrylic Lacquer, and Synthetic Enamel". These types of paint were most commonly used in automotive paints up until the late 1980’s until the release of two stage paints, although some manufacturers still use single stage paint, often on black, white and red paint finishes.

Single stage paint has a glossy clear actually mixed into the paint, single stage automotive paint compositions usually have a low volatile organic content (VOC).These low VOC compositions are made from a metallic base resin, tint base, reducer, hardener and a metallic base booster. The metallic base booster provides superior metal control and a very low VOC. Single stage paint when mixed is mainly three parts (coats); base (pigment or colour), reducer, and hardener.

Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.

For single stage paints try Meguiar's M80, its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth.
 
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Old 02-09-2011 | 04:09 AM
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I'm surprised one would advocate using a machine buffer on this type of paint as the OP would like to preserve what is still here. Wouldn't removing significant paint (possibly right down to bare metal) present itself if a machine buffer where used? I'd lean heavily toward doing this job all by hand.
 

Last edited by FLY996; 02-09-2011 at 04:17 AM.
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Old 02-09-2011 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by FLY996
I'm surprised one would advocate using a machine buffer on this type of paint as the OP would like to preserve what is still here. Wouldn't removing significant paint (possibly right down to bare metal) present itself if a machine buffer where used? I'd lean heavily toward doing this job all by hand.
Using a DA polisher like a FLEX or Cyclo doesn't hurt the paint or remove a lot of material. The only way you'll remove significant paint is by sanding or compounding. But as we recommended, try the hand method first and if the results aren't to the liking of the OP, then a DA polisher would be the next step.
 
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Old 02-10-2011 | 10:22 AM
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Wow. I remember that color. A neighbor had one when I lived in north Omaha in the 60's. Don't discount the value of the car - there are Falcon clubs out there and you just never know. Getting the oxidized paint off by hand is going to take some time, but I would be interested in seeing your progress.
 
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Old 02-10-2011 | 10:45 PM
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It's easy to misunderstand the paint due to the fact that it is transferring so easily, you naturally think polishing it with a machine will eat right through it, but that's not the case if you know how to properly machine polish and with a DA machine you really can't go wrong....

That oxidized "dead" paint needs be removed in order to preserve/restore it.

SS (single stage) paint oxidizes very easy and also corrects fairly well, provided it's not peeling off yet.

Think of it like skin.... dead skin comes off when you rub it, healthy skin does not and there is healthy skin underneath the dead skin too... Once the paint is healthy again it will not transfer so easily.

I would highly suggest finding a qualified pro detailer to take a look at it. I know you don't think the car is worth much now, but once it's properly polished and looking new again it will be worth a million bucks to you.

Josh
 
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Old 02-10-2011 | 10:47 PM
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Here is one of the best in your state. Give Bryan a call.

http://peachstatedetail.com/index.html

Josh
 
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Old 02-11-2011 | 08:00 AM
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Thanks for the responses guys. I got a chuckle out of the Barn Find comment. I think it is funnier to call the car "barned" rather than "garaged". I am going to have a detailer take a look at it. Since I don't exactly know what I am doing, I'd probably do more harm than good.

I'll post the results.

The story on the car is that it belonged to my grandmother-in-law who passed away peacefully last July at the ripe old age of 88. Her mother bought the car new in 1961. It was driven sporadically until a few years ago. When visiting her in 2006, I made an off handed comment about the cool falcon in the garage. They had an estate sale and the top offer on the car was $800 - and rather than sell if for that amount they decided to give the car to me - without consulting me first I do not *need* a 50 year old Falcon, but I figured it would be fun if I could get it running. I pulled my enclosed trailer over to North Alabama over Christmas and brought it home. It took a couple hours work, but I was able to get the car running. It has 76k on the clock, looks like it did the majority of it's mileage in the first 10 years of it's life - there are service receipts at 62k and 66k from 1972.

Again, thanks for the advice. Unless the cost is untenable, looks like I'll let a pro do the work.

Tal
 
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