Can someone confirm that Menzerna's current designation of SF4500 = same formulation as the older PO85RD. The website says they are the same, but I had thought the formulation had changed?

Also, can someone comment on PO115C, does it have any cutting or polish or is it a glaze only?

 

Menzerna GMBH, EU polishes have slightly different formulations and cut levels compared to the Menzerna US versions

Menzerna USA Abrasive Levels and Reference Numbers

• PG 1000 – Power Gloss Compound (S34A) Cut: 5/5.0 - Gloss: 1.5/ 5.0
• FG 400 - Fast Gloss (1200 grit) Cut 9/10: Gloss 7/10
• SI 1500 – Super Intensive Polish (PO83)
• IP 2000 – Intensive Polish (PO91E) Cut 7/10: Gloss 6/
• PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203) Cut:3.5/5.0 – Gloss; 3.5/5.0
• FF 3000 – Final Finish Polish (PO85U) Cut 5/10: Gloss 9/10
• SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA) Cut:2.5/5.0 – Gloss; 5/5.0
• SF 4500 – Super Finish Polish (PO85RD) Cut:3.5/5.0 – Gloss; 5/5.0

PO115C is a finishing glaze -Cut 0.5 / Gloss 5.0

Menzerna USA - http://www.menzernausa.com/Charts/Li...ry%202012.tiff

 

Thank you.

 

SF4500 is the same as PO85RD.

PO115C has no cut its just a glaze.

 

Blue LC pad with PO115C?

 

Uber Blue Pad and the Glaze would work well.

 

I have very light scratch and lots of swirl marks, please help me find the correct polish/pad combo? My paint is in excellent condition, clear coat is great, before I get into this detailing on my car, I did some stupid things to it, frequently clean it with a moist Sammy and wax it with cheap wax. I causing all these swirl marks, please help me find a perfect menzerna polish and pad combo? Thanks

 

can you post the photos of your imperfections.

 

Where would m2o5 fit in on the cut gloss scale?

 

I have some RIDS that showed up after polishing my car with SF4500. I used PF2500 and a 4" Cyan hydrotech pad, but that did nothing to get rid of the RIDS. I am trying to decide between stepping up to SI1500 or FG400, but I am concerned that the SI1500 won't get them out. I have read very good things about FG400, and I am trying to minimize the number of products I buy/use. From what I read, the FG400 can be finished off with SF4500 on red, and doesn't need any additional steps on lighter colors (I have a white tacoma). Any input would be appreciated.

 

They are the same. I find fantastic results using SF4500 and a Lake Country Crimson HydroTech pad for jeweling perfection. I have the dreaded BPP, and this combo gives me no micro-marring and a perfect finish (forgive the SONAX pun).

 

M205 is a Mequire's polish not Menzerna

 

Test Panel Area
One of the most often asked questions; “What polish / pad combination should I use to remove scratches?”
There are far too many variables to state this accurately.

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; before deciding on what products to use ascertain the paint surface conditions and your goals for the paint finish. And then proceed with the least abrasive product / pad combination

Differing density (hardness) of paints react differently to correction, so before beginning to polish measure the paint thickness (PTG) panel by panel to ensure that you do not select an aggressive polish that will remove too much clear coat

As a detailer you need to be able to ‘read’ the paint; that means knowing how the paint will react with each pad / polish combination you consider using and you do this by experimenting on a ‘test panel’ taking the results you’ll be able to adapt to differing circumstances. You must know your product and what its capabilities are before using it
The factors that affect the outcome -speed, friction (kinetic energy) applied pressure, foam pad actual surface contact area, pad grit number (abrasive ability) amount of surface lubrication available, the surface area and heat conductivity of material

Develop your skill set, never stop learning, but respond to the challenge, don't just react. The net result, at the end of the day, is a car with beautiful paint and the satisfaction that you overcame a difficult challenge and still obtained the result you were after.

Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required. Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle.

Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.

If your choice of abrasive polish pad combination, speed and technique works to restore the finish to your expectations, then theoretically you should be able to duplicate the process on the rest of the vehicle.

There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary

Normal Polishing area - 18 x 18- inches is optimal although a slightly larger area could be used

 

I know but where on a cut and gloss spectrum would it fall ?

 

When I did that old fashioned thing, you may not know it, it's called google search, not as easy as asking a question and having the answr provided for you but ...http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...plication.html