Correct DA Pad and Speed Choice?
#1
Correct DA Pad and Speed Choice?
I've just begun working with the Porter DA Polisher that everyone uses. The paint on my Turbo is fine, but on my brand new Black Supercharged Range Rover Sport, it is a mess. I bought some products to attempt to remove all the swirl marks and spider webbing. Please critique my choices, and also suggest which pads I should be using to apply them with the Porter, and at what speed:
Mike.
- Clay Bar (Have Proper Autocare's Clay Bar Foam DA Pad Applicator) Not sure how effective it is. Went back over by hand, and still picked up fallout. How much clay bar lube should I be using?
- Menzerna Intensive Polish: Again, what pad and speed? But also, how long should I be working a section? Till it starts to dust? Foam pad lube?
- 3M Imperial Hand Glaze <--Using the glaze here was a suggestion by another forum member. Agreement / Disagreement? Again, what pad should I be using?
- P21S Polish
- P21S Wax: Should I be trying to layer this?
Mike.
#2
As for the clay, I like the traditional hand application. Use lots of lube to prevent scratching and a smooth glide. I use Meguiar's Soft Buff pads and with the Menzerna, you'll want to use their yellow foam pad. No lube for foam pad. You have to go slow with the DA, keep it around the 5 setting and let it and the polish do the work. I think you can skip the Imperial Glaze and go to the P21S polish. I would use another yellow pad and do it with the DA. Then come back and polish by hand and wax, and you're done. As far as layering goes, it does get better by the 3rd or 4th layer. I'm not sure how much time is needed between layers for P21S, I usually wait a day, but I use Zymol. Hope this helps and have fun; remember, you should enjoy driving more than caring for the paint . Don't let it get too technical.
#3
Thanks Moe! I trust your expertise! Any other comments from anyone else? Totally unrelated, but I have a 1961 Austin Healey with original Boroni wire wheels. There is some gunk caked on the wires and the inside of the wheel. What product and brush/applicator should I use to get it off and refinish the metal wheel?
#4
Post a pic if you can of the wheels...
#6
The discoloration on the rear hub is definitely gunk. The stuff around the wire spoke bases may be rust. Seems impossibe to get to that rear hub area without removing the wheels. What tool should I be using?
#7
OK..I'm not one to ever recommend chemicals to clean the car. However, I had a clietn this week use the Mother's Power Ball. It worked fantastic. What I would do, get the powerball, you'll need a very nice drill w/ variable speed, 18V or better. Use the powerball as recommended, and finish the work with Zymol Metall. PM me if you need some. That should take care of everything. Good luck. Let's see after pics when you're done. Also, remember to clean with a mild, pH balanced wheel cleaner first.
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#10
I got home from a card game @ 2 AM and figuered why not check 6speed Now I'm up to go to Crystal Cove with the same guys....Call me 9493554911. I'll bring a canister with me.
#11
Moe, I don't think I got to bed till around 4:30 am that morning, needless to say, I wasn't up in time for the Crystal Cove show. I will call you soon. I have 2 bentleys, a 360 Spider, and a RR Sport who all need your attention and I need some tutoring.
Cheers.
Mike.
Cheers.
Mike.
#12
Originally Posted by TheRogue
Moe, I don't think I got to bed till around 4:30 am that morning, needless to say, I wasn't up in time for the Crystal Cove show. I will call you soon. I have 2 bentleys, a 360 Spider, and a RR Sport who all need your attention and I need some tutoring.
Cheers.
Mike.
Cheers.
Mike.
#13
Originally Posted by TheRogue
I've just begun working with the Porter DA Polisher that everyone uses. The paint on my Turbo is fine, but on my brand new Black Supercharged Range Rover Sport, it is a mess. I bought some products to attempt to remove all the swirl marks and spider webbing. Please critique my choices, and also suggest which pads I should be using to apply them with the Porter, and at what speed:
Mike.
- Clay Bar (Have Proper Autocare's Clay Bar Foam DA Pad Applicator) Not sure how effective it is. Went back over by hand, and still picked up fallout. How much clay bar lube should I be using?
- Menzerna Intensive Polish: Again, what pad and speed? But also, how long should I be working a section? Till it starts to dust? Foam pad lube?
- 3M Imperial Hand Glaze <--Using the glaze here was a suggestion by another forum member. Agreement / Disagreement? Again, what pad should I be using?
- P21S Polish
- P21S Wax: Should I be trying to layer this?
Mike.
#14
There's no such thing as a silly or dumb question. We in the industry always forget not everyone understands our talk. DA stands for Dual Action. There are two types of polishers out there, Dual Action and high-speed orbital. The dual action is very safe and gets its name because the polishing head goes in random side to side orbits. In contrast, the high-speed is basically a grinder. It can achieve almost 3000 rpm, sometimes more. Unfortunatly, this is where the horror can arise. You have heard about people burning through paint and causing sever swirls and scrathches using a high-speed. Well, there's merit to that. In an unskilled hand, the high-speed is a very dangerous weapon...that's right...weapon Becasue you can seriously damage paint if you use too harsh of compund, wrong pad, wrong speed, etc. But in the right hand, it can produce results beyond your wildest dreams. Next time, look at the sky from the surface of your clean glass and then your paint. Now imagine your paint looking like your glass...absolutly breathtaking. Now for most DYI, and detailers, the DA is great becasue it too can achieve great results without worring about burning paint. The DA generates no, or little heat. Use the right products and pads, and you'll get great results with the DA. The site I always send people to is http://www.autodetailingsolutions.co...20Specials.htm. I don't have any affiliation. I get products form there and am about to buy this machine. It's a relabeled porter cable for Meguiar's. The advantage of this kit is it includes all the things you're going to need and the machine is lifetime warranty as apposed to the PC that's got a 1 year warranty. OK, I'm done
#15
Originally Posted by MoeMistry
There's no such thing as a silly or dumb question. We in the industry always forget not everyone understands our talk. DA stands for Dual Action. There are two types of polishers out there, Dual Action and high-speed orbital. The dual action is very safe and gets its name because the polishing head goes in random side to side orbits. In contrast, the high-speed is basically a grinder. It can achieve almost 3000 rpm, sometimes more. Unfortunatly, this is where the horror can arise. You have heard about people burning through paint and causing sever swirls and scrathches using a high-speed. Well, there's merit to that. In an unskilled hand, the high-speed is a very dangerous weapon...that's right...weapon Becasue you can seriously damage paint if you use too harsh of compund, wrong pad, wrong speed, etc. But in the right hand, it can produce results beyond your wildest dreams. Next time, look at the sky from the surface of your clean glass and then your paint. Now imagine your paint looking like your glass...absolutly breathtaking. Now for most DYI, and detailers, the DA is great becasue it too can achieve great results without worring about burning paint. The DA generates no, or little heat. Use the right products and pads, and you'll get great results with the DA. The site I always send people to is http://www.autodetailingsolutions.co...20Specials.htm. I don't have any affiliation. I get products form there and am about to buy this machine. It's a relabeled porter cable for Meguiar's. The advantage of this kit is it includes all the things you're going to need and the machine is lifetime warranty as apposed to the PC that's got a 1 year warranty. OK, I'm done