Pick up a good halogen lamp, so you can check your progress. Also, LC recently released their CSS pads (you'll need at least an orange pad), which are supposed to be fantastic. Make sure you have some high quality MF towels, so you don't undo the work you did with the PC.

If you're willing to spend some money, definitely pick up Menzerna's Ceramic Polish, PO106ff. It cuts slightly less than IP, but finishes up better than FPII. If you go this route, you can pick up some Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze and mix it 3:7 with PO106ff to improve depth and reduce dusting. Optimum and Blackfire polishes are also great choices, they both have pretty long working times.

As for the waxes, Poorboy's Natty Blue, P21S, and the pricier Souveran are a good bet. I recommend that you use a sealant regardless anyway, even if you're going to top off with a wax. There are a bunch of true spray sealants now, so it's a snap. Try Jeff Werkstatt's Acrylic Jett Trigger or Zaino's new CS.

Here's a treatment:
1. Wash with an automotive soap or Dawn (doesn't matter since you're going to polish the car anyway)
2. Claybar
3. Dry
4. Try FPII on an orange pad, then try IP/orange and finish with FPII/white. Wipe down with 50:50 iso alcohol/water mix as you go.
5. Seal with JW:AJT (Zaino liquid sealants are good too)
6. Top off with paste wax if you want.

Done! Be careful when you're applying the sealant and waxes and buffing them off, so you don't induce marring that you worked so hard to remove. Less pressure is always better. Last thing, be patient! DA polishers take forever!

 

thanks for all the great tips.