OK, Just about to get the car back from the shop after sitting there for almost a month. Took it in to have the Ediff Fault light checked. There was an Ediff Overheating issue the last time I was in Portland.

The dealer first downloaded the fault codes and then reset the fault for a test drive. Fault light came back on during the test drive. Factory wanted to know exactly what caused the fault and why. They first drained the Ediff fluid for any sign of metal filings and checked the Magnetic Solenoid valve. No metal filings were found. That was a big relief. It was suggested that the Ediff Magnetic Solenoid Valve be replaced. Part was ordered and cost for the part is about $950. This was installed after it came in and after resetting the fault, the test drive came back clear with no Ediff Fault. This seams to have fixed the problem. The factory wanted some more data downloaded after the test drive to clear the car. I was actually very impressed at the level of involvement that the factory engineers took in every mechanical issue out of the ordinary the the shop deals with. I think this shows a commitment in building the greatest performance race car in the world. The car was finally cleared and they ordered a couple of heat shields for me that protects the Ediff. Apparently this heat shield was added in 2006 or 2007 to prevent the Ediff from over heating. If you only drive the car on the street, it is unlikely that you would ever experience this problem but if you are planning on driving it hard on the track and own a 05 or 06 model 430, I suggest you get your shop to order these $20 or $30 heat shield to protect your Ediff from overheating. These will be installed in a couple of days when they arrive.

While the car was at the shop, the ECU was sent out to EVOM for an ECU flash. The ECU's were back within 3 days and that includes customs clearance. Very fast turn around. Unfortunately I have not had a chance to drive the car yet. Will pick it up early next week and take it in for a dyno reading to get some quantitative results.

Also ordered the Brembo front and rear big brake kits due to arrive this Friday. Will probably install these in a week or so. I was excited to see some great pics of 430's with the big brake kits on another thread here.

Can't wait to do the seat of the pants feel on the new ECU flash. Will post some updated dyno numbers towards the end of next week.

 

good advice on the shield. hope you like the EVOMSit tune, keep us updated

 

I'm interested to see the results from the ECU reflash myself!!

 

Interested in ECU before and after numbers!!

 

Got the car on the Dyno today. The final net result with High Flow BNC intake filter, Fab Speed Hi Flow Cats and EVOM ECU flash was 444 HP and 324 lbft at the wheel. This represents a +26HP and +19 lbft increase from the before dyno of 418 HP and 305 lbft. Working the numbers backwards, this works out to 509 HP and 371 lbft at the crank compared to the factory spec of 490 HP and 343 lb ft. The increase in HP was through out the entire power curve all the way up to red line. Huge jumps in torque between 3000 to 6000 RPM and then at the top end as well.

I'm quite happy with this. The total cost was under $8000 including labour, taxes and shipping. This along with the big brake upgrades front and back should make it even more fun on the track next season. Might look into some forged rims and fatter tires all around for more grip.

 

Thats not a bad increase at all.


I was expecting a bit more than: +26HP and +19 lbft, but I can not recall if you have installed Headers yet.

Keep us posted! As always excellent build!

 

No headers at this time. I have a shop here that can custom make a set for me with high grade 20 gauge thin wall stainless. I think headers might gain me another 15HP at the crank but I don't think more HP will help me go any faster around the track. This will just give me enough to put a bit of distance from those buzzing little Exige's coming out of the corner into the straight on a tight track. I think light weight forged wheels with wider rubber for more grip and titanium wheel lugs to reduced un-sprung weight will net me more result on the track. That and learning how to drive my F430 faster.

 

Sorry, miscalculated there, working backwards, this should work out to about 515 HP at the crank.

 

Great Great write up my friend. Hope to see you driving it next season when spring comes!! Good to hear you enjoying your F430 as a track car (not many ppl do that). DON'T waste its potential. It's a amazing thing to see that you alreayd have spent quite a bit on it since you got the car man. LOL. BTW, $8000 for mods you saying including ECU, Fabspeed Cats, BMC filters + all installations, tax shipping? Anything more?

Keep us posted regardless!
Alan

 

Second day on the track for the season but first day for the F430. First time trying out the new Brembo Big Brake kit. It was a private track day put on by a Porsche GT3 Cup owner and his team to test his car and get it set up so there were only about a dozen or so of us out there.

Drove the car real hard today. Getting a really good feel for it for this season . The car rotates beautifully. Trying to find a faster line for this car at my home track and I thin I have it half figured out. Same Apex but going deeper into the tight corners for this car than my Porsche and squeeze the gas to let the car rotate. Seams faster and based on the laps in the afternoon compared to the cars out there, I definitely gained a bit more speed on those tight turns.

The brakes felt fantastic. Good stopping power, no fade what so ever and consistent through out the day. Probably could improve even more with some better pads like Pagid Yellows instead of the sport pads that came with the kit.

The Pirelli P-Zero Corsa's were magnificent. Tons of grip once it's warmed up and lots of feedback when your pushing it to it's limit.

My last session was about 40 to 45 minutes long. At the end of the session, my E-Diff light came on again. I had this problem on the last track day of last season with this car. Going to have to take it in and have it checked out again. Not sure it's because I had a pretty long session and was pushing it real hard the entire time and it just over heated. Starting to think perhaps the regular 430 was not meant for hard track use. Couple of other problems popped at the beginning of the drive home. I was stopped at a light and although the indicator showed I was in first, when I stepped on the gas to go, it was not in gear. Tried pulling on the right gear lever a couple of times and it just sat there and reved. Tried pulling on both lever to put it in neutral and then into first but that didn't work either. A bit embarrassing. Had to shut it down and restart it to get it going. Has anyone used their 430 hard on the track ? Yes, some of you are probably saying I should have just gone with the Scud.

 

Have you thought about getting a Diff cooler? Nice write up and congrats on the car

 

Didn't know they made a Diff cooler. Any info on it ? Website or who makes it ? Thanks

 

dude i tracked all my cars and i am in the process of buying a a 2008 430 ... thanks for some of the tps.. have a race car but will track the 430!

 

hope you don't mind me posting this pic (if you do, let me know!)
I didn't take the pic

 

That is me !!! A bit scary how this photo finds it's way on here. Would you mind telling me how you came across this photo.

If this was taken yesterday, it would have been coming home from the track early to drop the car off at the dealer. The dreaded e-diff warning came on again at the end of a hard session. There was a problem with a bleeder screw for the F1 transmission that apparently backs it's way out over time and causes the system to loose pressure when you shift. You won't notice it on the street until the problem gets really bad. On the track with repeated up and down shifts, the problem is amplified and the system does not have enough time in between to equalize itself. This was identified to me by my dealer last year.

The unfortunate part is that you can't get to it without taking the whole thing apart which is basically the same as a clutch job. This is the usual time when they will check this bleeder screw. My clutch is 60% worn but I can't do anymore track days without this being fixed so I'll just have to bite the bullet and prematurely do a clutch job !!! Perhaps it is something everyone should check before buying a car. I believe they have a way through software diagnostics to see if this screw needs re-tightening. This is apparently a common issue with the F1 transmission.