HELP!..tying down 997RS on trailer
#1
HELP!..tying down 997RS on trailer
I just bought a half interest in a new trailex aluminum flatbed trailer, that is perfect for the RS.
WHen I shipped the car back from Germany in July it was tied down to tight and had broken rear suspension.
Does anyone here trailer a 997 RS?..how do you tie it down?..any photos would be appreciated......
WHen I shipped the car back from Germany in July it was tied down to tight and had broken rear suspension.
Does anyone here trailer a 997 RS?..how do you tie it down?..any photos would be appreciated......
#2
don't tie car so suspension does not travel! Go though the wheels with bands and tie to your trailer the gt3 sit so low in the front you will not be able cross the tie downs typically. Just through the wheel straight to pick up point
Very simple...
I take mine out of gear also..
The car is kent to move on it's suspension so let it move
Very simple...
I take mine out of gear also..
The car is kent to move on it's suspension so let it move
#3
I also tie down through the wheels. I bought wheel straps from a trailer place. Very easy to feed them between the wheel and the rotor even with CCBs. I have a metal stick to "fetch" the strap from under the car once it drops through the wheel (avoids scrambling around or touching the exhaust.)
I just towed from Thunderhill up Hwy 80 (which is basically a disaster area and has been for a couple of years now despite apparent road works.) Very bumpy, high speed and still the GT3 didn't move inside the trailer. Just stop after a few minutes to check tension, then stop again if you encounter any rough road for the first time and check the tension again. After that, the car has balanced out and there's no need to crank down on the ratchets too much, just "snug."
I back the 911's on trailers to get the engine over the wheels and forward to keep some tongue weight down on the tow vehicle. I put two straps on the front wheels of the car (a precaution against a panic brake) and only one on one rear wheel. I'd probably do both rear wheels if I was traveling a windy road or a longer distance.
I've been told the recovery hooks (that thread into the bumpers) are not for tie-down purposes (since the bumpers are on compression tubes) so I just leave the winch on as a final precaution against a complete disaster, but I don't have any tension on the cable.
If you're going to hook into the holes in the jack points, be careful to set up so that they can't fall out if the strap goes slack (such as under heavy braking.)
I'm curious to know if anyone has used a lug bolt tie-down on a 996 or 997.
There is a company that makes tie-downs that can be bolted to the chassis of 993/996/997. The next time you get an alignment, it's easy to have these bolted on.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...s%20&%20Misc.:
I just towed from Thunderhill up Hwy 80 (which is basically a disaster area and has been for a couple of years now despite apparent road works.) Very bumpy, high speed and still the GT3 didn't move inside the trailer. Just stop after a few minutes to check tension, then stop again if you encounter any rough road for the first time and check the tension again. After that, the car has balanced out and there's no need to crank down on the ratchets too much, just "snug."
I back the 911's on trailers to get the engine over the wheels and forward to keep some tongue weight down on the tow vehicle. I put two straps on the front wheels of the car (a precaution against a panic brake) and only one on one rear wheel. I'd probably do both rear wheels if I was traveling a windy road or a longer distance.
I've been told the recovery hooks (that thread into the bumpers) are not for tie-down purposes (since the bumpers are on compression tubes) so I just leave the winch on as a final precaution against a complete disaster, but I don't have any tension on the cable.
If you're going to hook into the holes in the jack points, be careful to set up so that they can't fall out if the strap goes slack (such as under heavy braking.)
I'm curious to know if anyone has used a lug bolt tie-down on a 996 or 997.
There is a company that makes tie-downs that can be bolted to the chassis of 993/996/997. The next time you get an alignment, it's easy to have these bolted on.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...s%20&%20Misc.:
#4
+1
don't tie car so suspension does not travel! Go though the wheels with bands and tie to your trailer the gt3 sit so low in the front you will not be able cross the tie downs typically. Just through the wheel straight to pick up point
Very simple...
I take mine out of gear also..
The car is kent to move on it's suspension so let it move
Very simple...
I take mine out of gear also..
The car is kent to move on it's suspension so let it move
#5
I also tie down through the wheels. I bought wheel straps from a trailer place. Very easy to feed them between the wheel and the rotor even with CCBs. I have a metal stick to "fetch" the strap from under the car once it drops through the wheel (avoids scrambling around or touching the exhaust.)
I just towed from Thunderhill up Hwy 80 (which is basically a disaster area and has been for a couple of years now despite apparent road works.) Very bumpy, high speed and still the GT3 didn't move inside the trailer. Just stop after a few minutes to check tension, then stop again if you encounter any rough road for the first time and check the tension again. After that, the car has balanced out and there's no need to crank down on the ratchets too much, just "snug."
I back the 911's on trailers to get the engine over the wheels and forward to keep some tongue weight down on the tow vehicle. I put two straps on the front wheels of the car (a precaution against a panic brake) and only one on one rear wheel. I'd probably do both rear wheels if I was traveling a windy road or a longer distance.
I've been told the recovery hooks (that thread into the bumpers) are not for tie-down purposes (since the bumpers are on compression tubes) so I just leave the winch on as a final precaution against a complete disaster, but I don't have any tension on the cable.
If you're going to hook into the holes in the jack points, be careful to set up so that they can't fall out if the strap goes slack (such as under heavy braking.)
I'm curious to know if anyone has used a lug bolt tie-down on a 996 or 997.
There is a company that makes tie-downs that can be bolted to the chassis of 993/996/997. The next time you get an alignment, it's easy to have these bolted on.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...s%20&%20Misc.:
I just towed from Thunderhill up Hwy 80 (which is basically a disaster area and has been for a couple of years now despite apparent road works.) Very bumpy, high speed and still the GT3 didn't move inside the trailer. Just stop after a few minutes to check tension, then stop again if you encounter any rough road for the first time and check the tension again. After that, the car has balanced out and there's no need to crank down on the ratchets too much, just "snug."
I back the 911's on trailers to get the engine over the wheels and forward to keep some tongue weight down on the tow vehicle. I put two straps on the front wheels of the car (a precaution against a panic brake) and only one on one rear wheel. I'd probably do both rear wheels if I was traveling a windy road or a longer distance.
I've been told the recovery hooks (that thread into the bumpers) are not for tie-down purposes (since the bumpers are on compression tubes) so I just leave the winch on as a final precaution against a complete disaster, but I don't have any tension on the cable.
If you're going to hook into the holes in the jack points, be careful to set up so that they can't fall out if the strap goes slack (such as under heavy braking.)
I'm curious to know if anyone has used a lug bolt tie-down on a 996 or 997.
There is a company that makes tie-downs that can be bolted to the chassis of 993/996/997. The next time you get an alignment, it's easy to have these bolted on.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...s%20&%20Misc.:
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