Like i said, unless you have LOTS of money to burn, hp should be very last on the list of mods, if it even makes the list. A full exhaust system and proper tune will run you north of 7k easily. Not worth it. BMC drop in wont hurt but isn't necessary. Porsche did their homework. As a testimate to this PMNA rated their stock airbox in the 996 turbo motors effective up to 700hp. If you don't believe me, ask Fabryce at GMG. Their Time Attack winning GT2 makes 700+ and they're still using the stock box. If you want a little more get up, work on reducing the weight of the car. This way you'll see performance gains in cornering and braking as well as hp to weight.

I've heard nothing but good things about Softronic stuff but again, upgrading the ECU is not necessary. Not sure who DMS is?

If you want to 'personalize' your GT3 a little more, get a nice set of wheels, do Sharky's exhaust mod, the CF interior mods you were talking about and be done with it.

 

Sorry for being a jerk, but if you are only going to be driving the car for 20 days a year why would need to modify it?
"The car will be used 90% on the street, and I'd probably hit the track at most twice a year" - so only 18 days on the street?

 

i dont think thats what the OP meant sounds like he wants to add mods to his car and plans to drive 90% of time in the street. he never stated that he'll only drive the car 20days/yr.

 

Total misinterpretation. The car would be a daily driver which would be used primarily on the street, with me hitting the tracks at most twice in a year.

 

Point noted. Thanks.

On the subject of wheels.. what goes well with the white GT3? Criteria that I've is that it must be black and lightweight. So far I only have the BBS LM in mind..

Suggestions would be appreciated cheers!

 

It was a joke (a lame one).

"he never stated that he'll only drive the car 20days/yr" - he did state that, accidentally. 90% on the street plus 2 days at the track, unless he spends alot of time doing doughnuts in the parking lot or driving offroad through the jungle, those 2 track days make up the other 10%. All up thats "20days/yr" of driving.

Anyway, to answer the original question. Do what I think are the 4 most important mods first and see how you like it:

LWFW, cup low ratio diff, muffler bypass, 18 inch rims with good R-compounds (R888, DZ03, RE55s)

The car will feel much faster, rev alot more freely and it will sound the **** too. I would look at solid bushes, cup car tie rods, control arms and sway bars and also solid rose joints (dog bones) before I started looking at fully adjustable aftermarket coilovers. Get the car corner balanced and aligned by a good workshop and the car will be "90%" as good as any GT3 out there. Everything after that and the added improvement starts to become marginal.

 

If your are going to stick with 19's you have A LOT of nice options. In the order I'd go...

1. BBS E88's with black or gold centers
2. Champion RS 171 Monolites
3. Champion RS98 Monolites
4. HRE C21 or C93's

If you're going to 18's

1. BBS Mags
2. BBS E88's
3. HRE C21 Cups

All of those wheels are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ but IMO the best looking and extremely functional.

 

As Chuck stated the LWFW will void the warranty and a lot of people argue for the money it doesnt make a big enough difference. No need for a low ratio diff if he wont be tracking much. Same goes for solid bushings, tie rods, control arms, dog bones, and sways. Perhaps toe links to get of the toe issues on track but like you said everything after that (especially in his case) becomes marginal. Even for those that track over 30 days a year the stock bushings, control arms, dog bones, sways, etc... are already good enough for the amount of camber needed for R-Comps and Hoosiers. Even for those who are more experienced, taking out the rubber offers very little performance and feel increase.

 

looking forward for pictures.

 

First, lets see some GT3 pictures in lovely SG!

 

Will post it up next week after I collect her and give it a good wax

 

I agree with those wheels. What are the exact specifications required to fit the 997 GT3 without any spacers for 19"?

 

I disagree. I think that the LWFW and lower-ratio diff are the most important mods after the muffler is 'upgraded'. They make the car feel alot faster (assuming thats what he wants) and are far better than an ECU flash (which probably has the same impact on your warranty anyway). Try it on your 996 and see.

 

Simply powdercoat the stock wheels if you like the black wheel look.

 

Stock wheels look okay but they weigh a ton.
Aftermarket 19s will save a lot of unsprung weight and look nicer.

I vote for RS171 Champion's in black.
Not sure what the exact offsets are, but when you order, just specify 997 narrow-body. They will certainly have the perfect specs for you.