I'm sure (hope) that's the case and the option is indeed much lower & affordable since this is such a great option to have straight from the OEM if desired for areas where driveways or inclines, etc... are not the greatest for our low cars.
Take care.

 

I wonder what the cost of an OEM retrofit would be, and moreover, what system they will use. Will it require special shocks or will it be like the cargraphic 'balloons'

 

I think I'll buy about 15-20 OEM lips and keep them in my basement instead. Too much for my blood.

 

Hi 911rox,

The addition of the Airlift kit to your 997.2 GT3 OEM suspension would in theory raise the car 13mm, however before the Airlift goes on, an adjustment to the lower nut by 13mm will keep the final ride height the same as desired. The Airlift does NOT affect how much the car can be lowered.

Thanks to the Bilstein/Cargraphic engineers and a well designed system, there is no risk of the bladders getting punctured by any of the suspension components.

PM price coming.

 

So how fast does this thing inflate?

 

Sounds like a good set up. Thanks Bryan...

 

Hi RSSbryan,

If I understand correctly, you say that in position 'A' (see image below of in this case a 997 GT3 gen1 ) the Cargraphic airlift ads +/- 13mm (13millimeters, being the thickness of the components resting on top of the spring?). I would think the only way to compensate for this 13mm (if correct), which would raise the car by 13mm, would be to lower the adjustment ring 'B' by the same amount, so 13mm down.
Given that distance 'd' is 37mm (OEM setting Germany?), minus 13mm, this would leave only 24mm to lower the front of the car instead of 37mm originally.

So, basically, keeping in mind we're talking about the OEM suspension of in this case a 997 GT3 gen1, I would think the Airlift DOES affect how much the car can be lowered.

If I understand you correctly, you say it doesn't. In that case, what would do you perhaps mean with "adjustment to the lower nut"? Are you talking about 'B' or something else? Or are you, instead of the model 'B', maybe using thinner adjustment rings? Could you please give some more details or document with pictures or a small drawing or so?

Thanks a lot!

ApexIng.

 

I have installed the Airlift Kit in my GT3 RS. I did it by myself.

You will have to lower the ring B for 13mm. When calling Cargraphic they told me to lower it 20mm for a better look.

So the system will affect total lowering range. But in reality you cannot lower it by 37mm with stock suspension. There will be not enough residual spring travel left for street use. Maximum appropiate lowering rate with stock suspension is 20mm.

It lifts about 60mm within 15 seconds.

Claus

 

Hi GT3RS-Germany,

thank you for sharing your own experience, it's very helpful and it partly confirms what I was thinking.

I have 3 more questions having read your answer:

1. If Cargraphic told you to lower it by 20mm for a better look, do you mean 20mm additionally to the 13mm you need to comensate for the airlift, or did they mean 20 in total, meaning actually only 7 mm lowering? This seams very little to have an optical effect.

2. Could you try and explain a bit further what you said: "There will be not enough residual spring travel left for street use." I would think that actually, what's affected is the damper travel, being limited by e.g. 20mm if you would lower the car by 20mm. I suppose if you would go lower than that, you risk going to far in bound (and reaching the end of the damper working area on bad roads). If this is the problem, I suppose using the "Sport" suspension setting might protect the dampers?

3. Combining al your information, I could install the airlift and adjust ring 'B' from my picture 13mm down (which isn't actually lowering) + another 20mm down (which is the maximal recommanded lowering for road use)?

Thanks in advance if you would find a few more minutes time to answer my questions.

Regards.

 

1) No, they told me to lower the ring for 20mm instead of 13mm as listed in the Airlift manual. In fact I lowered the ring 25mm making a 12mm lower car. But I think it is still too high. So I am going for a Bilstein B16 in future.

In my case I lowered the car 12mm. This means that stock spring travel is reduced by 12mm. So the OE bump limiters will work 12mm "earlier" than in stock height.

2) Yes, correct. But "Sport" button does not protect dampers. They are only stiffer and almost undrivable on street use.

3) Also correct. So the originally 37mm remaining thread is enough.

 

Everyting clear.

I think I'll try what I suggested in point 3, but I'm afraid those 20mm (instead of your 12mm) still won't do the trick... I'd like to go slightly lower too. Let me know if you would ever upload a picture of your car, I'd be very interested to see the effect of -12mm.

At the same time, if I only lower the front by 20mm, I have my doubts if the Airlift is really necessary. I find the stock height quite drivable for street use, although every once in a while of course you come across a speed bump where you scrape the front lip. And of course, underground parkings are a no-go too (or will be with -20mm). But still, for the budget of the Airlift you can buy a lot of lips...

PS: would you perhaps know if -20mm is also the "maximum" recommendation at the rear for street use? I think there is more distance (compared to 'd') available.

Anyhow, thanks and good luck with your RS.

 

On the rear I have lowered the stock suspension by 10mm. I can post some pics as soon as the wheater becomes a little better.


Thanks, same to you.