CGT oil change (URGENT!)
#16
06-08-2009, 03:30 PM
Former Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orange County SoCal
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Colby,
Thanks for the referal....
We service and maintain over 10 CGT's in the Southern California area.
We have done everything from clutch replacements, head gaskets to basic maintenance and service work.
Here is a CGT engine and gearbox out when we built our WC-GT exhaust system.
We have all the proper tools, diagnostic equipment and trained personel to service the cars properly.
Thanks for the referal....
We service and maintain over 10 CGT's in the Southern California area.
We have done everything from clutch replacements, head gaskets to basic maintenance and service work.
Here is a CGT engine and gearbox out when we built our WC-GT exhaust system.
We have all the proper tools, diagnostic equipment and trained personel to service the cars properly.
#17
06-08-2009, 06:01 PM
I just did it myself without a lift. It took me a full day. The strainer was clean. It only took 8 quarts even though I let it drain a few hours with the oil filter removed. You need the torque multiplier to take off the wheel and be careful of all torques so you don't break the carbon fiber.
There's about 50 screws with different sizes, so you need to mark where they go.
There's about 50 screws with different sizes, so you need to mark where they go.
I would not have thought in a million years a CGT owner would change his own oil...
#20
06-09-2009, 11:53 AM
Good for you!
I would have looked at all the fasteners and thought about over torquing and cracking CF etc... and thrown in the towel
to do it without a lift even...
commendable
I would have looked at all the fasteners and thought about over torquing and cracking CF etc... and thrown in the towel
to do it without a lift even...
commendable
#21
06-09-2009, 05:47 PM
I just did it myself without a lift. It took me a full day. The strainer was clean. It only took 8 quarts even though I let it drain a few hours with the oil filter removed. You need the torque multiplier to take off the wheel and be careful of all torques so you don't break the carbon fiber.
There's about 50 screws with different sizes, so you need to mark where they go.
There's about 50 screws with different sizes, so you need to mark where they go.
#22
06-09-2009, 06:34 PM
It's easy to remove the CGT wheel with the torque multiplier and a breaker bar. It also provides precise torque when tightening, which is required to prevent damage to the CGT wheel from over-torque, or damage when the wheel spins for under-torque.
Last edited by Bill S; 06-09-2009 at 06:40 PM.
#23
06-09-2009, 11:06 PM
gear reduction
i have a humongous wrench also. i can use it elsewhere (and have had to) and the inherent error in the smaller wrench isn't multiplied (along with the torque, the error is also necessarily multiplied). i don't recall exactly, but the price of the large wrench was pretty much the same as the multiplier ... not that a CGT (or 430CH) owner cares.
the multiplier requires a brace to work, and uses a spoke. the 430 challenge wheel design may not permit this.
A friend with a F430 challenge has a humongous torque wrench for his center lock wheels. I'm wondering if he would be better off with your tool when at the track?
the multiplier requires a brace to work, and uses a spoke. the 430 challenge wheel design may not permit this.
#24
06-10-2009, 11:41 PM
When you turn the multiplier with the torque wrench, the part connected to the wheel nut turns about 4X slower. The arm keeps the multiplier housing from turning by wedging up against the wheel spoke. 122 ft-lb in equals 407 ft-lb out. This one is specially made for the CGT by Hazet and has a protective covering on the arm. It basically like a starter motor where a small diameter gear engages a large diameter gear for torque multiplication.
It's easy to remove the CGT wheel with the torque multiplier and a breaker bar. It also provides precise torque when tightening, which is required to prevent damage to the CGT wheel from over-torque, or damage when the wheel spins for under-torque.
It's easy to remove the CGT wheel with the torque multiplier and a breaker bar. It also provides precise torque when tightening, which is required to prevent damage to the CGT wheel from over-torque, or damage when the wheel spins for under-torque.
gear reduction
i have a humongous wrench also. i can use it elsewhere (and have had to) and the inherent error in the smaller wrench isn't multiplied (along with the torque, the error is also necessarily multiplied). i don't recall exactly, but the price of the large wrench was pretty much the same as the multiplier ... not that a CGT (or 430CH) owner cares.
the multiplier requires a brace to work, and uses a spoke. the 430 challenge wheel design may not permit this.
i have a humongous wrench also. i can use it elsewhere (and have had to) and the inherent error in the smaller wrench isn't multiplied (along with the torque, the error is also necessarily multiplied). i don't recall exactly, but the price of the large wrench was pretty much the same as the multiplier ... not that a CGT (or 430CH) owner cares.
the multiplier requires a brace to work, and uses a spoke. the 430 challenge wheel design may not permit this.
#25
06-14-2009, 05:34 PM
Make sure you guys have the jacking plates so your monocoque doesn't get stressed & crack
We have the plates & torque multiplier at our shop.
Bill S - That's awesome you did your own oil change.
We have the plates & torque multiplier at our shop.
Bill S - That's awesome you did your own oil change.
#26
06-16-2009, 07:17 PM
I just did it myself without a lift. It took me a full day. The strainer was clean. It only took 8 quarts even though I let it drain a few hours with the oil filter removed. You need the torque multiplier to take off the wheel and be careful of all torques so you don't break the carbon fiber.
There's about 50 screws with different sizes, so you need to mark where they go.
There's about 50 screws with different sizes, so you need to mark where they go.
thats is insainly unessicarly complex!!
talk about trying to keep the service department in business.
way to go by doing it yourself!!
I used to do my oil myself until a friend told me that to just pay a few hundred was simply insurance incase ANYTHING happened to the engine that could be traced back to a leak or any possible tiny mistake I could make or over look. If a 15k (NSX), 75k (Diablo), or 150k (CGT) egine were to blow up from loss of oil it would all be on me if that drain plug wiggled loose. If I pay someone they assume the liability
I want to change my Diablos oil so bad, but its just not worth the chance over nothing
#27
06-16-2009, 10:20 PM
thats is insainly unessicarly complex!!
talk about trying to keep the service department in business.
way to go by doing it yourself!!
I used to do my oil myself until a friend told me that to just pay a few hundred was simply insurance incase ANYTHING happened to the engine that could be traced back to a leak or any possible tiny mistake I could make or over look. If a 15k (NSX), 75k (Diablo), or 150k (CGT) egine were to blow up from loss of oil it would all be on me if that drain plug wiggled loose. If I pay someone they assume the liability
I want to change my Diablos oil so bad, but its just not worth the chance over nothing
talk about trying to keep the service department in business.
way to go by doing it yourself!!
I used to do my oil myself until a friend told me that to just pay a few hundred was simply insurance incase ANYTHING happened to the engine that could be traced back to a leak or any possible tiny mistake I could make or over look. If a 15k (NSX), 75k (Diablo), or 150k (CGT) egine were to blow up from loss of oil it would all be on me if that drain plug wiggled loose. If I pay someone they assume the liability
I want to change my Diablos oil so bad, but its just not worth the chance over nothing
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