GT3/GT2 Performance and Track Discussion on the Porsche GT3 and GT2

2010 gt3 ceramic brakes

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  #16  
Old 08-25-2009 | 11:06 AM
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Here is my own experience with PCCB rotors (997 GT3). They were great in terms of break feel but started to wear very quickly as soon as I started to track my car heavily. Noboby at the dealership ever mentionned that I should switch to P50 (green Motorsport pads) simply because they didn't know they existed ! Would the rotors be in better condition having used the P50 pads ? I will never know...

Now that I have replaced the rotors with AP iron race rotors (replacement kit that fits with same calipers), I can't say I feel any difference in breaking power. No fade at all. The weight will not make any difference unless you are a pro driver IMO. I have to say that I also replaced the break lines for inox which could be also a factor. I used 4 pads sets (PCCB pads bought at the dealership) for roughly 20 DE days last season. This year with the AP rotors, I'm still on my first pad set after exactly 15 DE days and they look like they are less than 50% used.

Don't believe the sales rep. They told me exactly the same thing when I bought my car... and BTW, I don't care anymore about brake dust !
 

Last edited by GT3Techno; 08-25-2009 at 03:17 PM.
  #17  
Old 08-25-2009 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by G997
No brake dust= no brainer!!!!!

You can solve most of the brake dust issue on steel brakes with kevlar/ceramic pads. I use Carbotech Bobcat ceramic pads on my GT3 (steel brakes) and eliminated ~75% of the dust. Drove the car over 50 miles this weekend and wheels perfectly clean inside and out. Saved $9k and the worry re: damaging a rotor while r&r wheels, durability for track, etc

Bill
 
  #18  
Old 07-08-2010 | 03:24 PM
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I have used my 10GT3 on track for 6 days with PCCB stock pads. Just checked the pad wear front and rear (about 1 mm used up compared to new stock pads P40). So far no problems and I have had to blow out the holes with compressed air after the 6th track day. Best brakes I've ever had in any car I've test driven. If you can afford them get them and look after them following the good advice about pad breakin and maintenance by keeping the holes clean. Just be careful to treat them like they're fragile when changing pads, wheels are off, etc.
 
  #19  
Old 07-10-2010 | 07:16 PM
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Sorry, but why are you guys/gals stating that the ceramic brakes are not "good" for tracking? I thought on the track is where these brakes shine. If they are really not good for tracking, then what are they good for?
 
  #20  
Old 07-10-2010 | 09:30 PM
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They perform great on the track, the issue is that the replacement rotors are major, major $$.
 
  #21  
Old 07-11-2010 | 12:05 AM
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interesting thread
 
  #22  
Old 07-11-2010 | 08:38 AM
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Paint your calipers yellow and go with the steel From what I understand the rotors have a 5 digit replacement cost. I intentionally looked for a GT3 without them.

I driven a car with ceramics. Meh... I didn't notice a huge difference and they made a weird howling noise when braking hard on the track.

The lack of dust would be nice.
 
  #23  
Old 07-12-2010 | 08:48 PM
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Go with the PCCBs. With them, you can switch to steel rotors rather cheaply if you decided to. Going the other way (steel -> PCCB) will cost you your left nut. The $8K cost at order time is worth the flexibility IMO.

Since we're on the subject, I am looking to purchase a set of PCCBs on my 2011 GT3 RS. Will buy a complete PCCB set or any individual parts (calipers, rotors, etc). Need to have come off a center lock wheel car...ie 2010 or 2011 GT3 or GT3 RS.

PM me if you have any for sale. Thanks.
 
  #24  
Old 07-12-2010 | 09:38 PM
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Ceramics 100%
 
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