Did not expect to see so many people suggesting the Turbo here, having driven and instructed in both, I would recommend the Turbo as well. It's probably more satisfying to drive for *most* people that I see on track as well...

 

The reason why turbo cars lose less than NA cars at higher altitude is because turbo cars can flow a consistent amount of air at sea level or high altitude. The way I see it (and somebody can correct me if I'm wrong), an NA engine at sea level is running at 1 atmosphere, or 14.73psi; as altitude increases, the air is less dense and atmospheric pressure is less so that NA engine will produce less power. A turbo engine at sea level is also running at 1 atmosphere (14.73psi), but it's also running, in addition, whatever boost it has; as altitude increases, the turbo will just work more (i.e. turbo spinning at higher RPM) to continue pumping 1 atmosphere + whatever boost it has. If anything, I'd say running turbo at higher altitude will decrease the longevity of the turbo(s) because of the additional work it has to do to maintain that pressure.

///Michael

 

You can use camber plates on any car, but the adjustable control arms are simpler and more robust. I have my GT3 set up at a bit over -2.0, and never change it. That's enough camber for casual track use with street tires, and not enough to cause wear problems on the street.

 

Why do you say the control arms are simpler? They're stronger than C2 arms, sure but I don't see a problem w/camber plates either...

 

Control arms are probably easier to adjust because you rotate screws on a single axis as opposed to a monoball at the top of a strut. With the lower control arms you just put in some shims (although that's more labor intensive, it's accurate). Much easier to go back to where you were with shims or a few rotations of a bolt without needing an alignment machine.

But unless you are doing your own alignments, or have a not so great alignment guy, camber plates are just as effective, just a little more fidgeting to get just right. Of course you can always mark the top of your mount inside the hood with a marker and basically get the same result.

 

I bought a MY08 Turbo and traded it fir a my2010 Gt3 because the turbo, to me, had no "feel" to it. when I drive the GT3, I feel a road/track connection in a way the turbo would not do. For pure driveability the GT3 cannot be beat. I drive mine to and from work, a 45 min commute each way. I am 6'3' and 190 lbs. no problems. I drive it to the track, and yes I have replaced the spoiler.

 

I didn't mean to imply a problem with camber plates. I've used both, and the plates work, but since they are made to adjust, they move. Since I don't change my GT3 alignment street-to-track, I prefer the system that is, in effect, solid. I used plates on an M3, but it needed a lot more camber for track use, and I routinely changed it for street and track.

 

- GT3 will likely hold it's value better
- TT more comfortable and would certainly be entertaining at the track.
- TT heavier and will wear brakes quicker at the track.
- GT3 is great for short trips around town (I've been to Denver several times but if pot holes or speed bumps are a concern then a TT might be better for that reason alone).
- GT3 far more unique
- GT3 has a better driver to road connection or feel.
- TT is easier to modify for power, GT3 doesn't really need anything.
- I suspect ownership costs vary significantly with different owners. IF you burn up tires & brakes at the track, I think a GT3 would be a better and less expensive choice.
- Going up the mountains to a ski resort makes a TT a must for fowl weather etc.

I like both. I picked a GT3. Have you driven both yet?