Lower rear arms of RS have further adjustability through spacers that can be added for far more aggressive rear camber that the GT3 does not have I believe.

 

Correct. The 997RS is actually incredibly civilised, a very, very soft car and more than easy to drive on a daily basis. You will have zero issues with using it daily if you so choose to do so... especially when compared to earlier generation 911s. I dare say it is easily comparable in feel to the 993 Carrera I used to own and far more civilised than the equivalent 993 RS of the time... the cars have basically softened through the years.

 

I have no idea to be honest, I just upgraded to GT3 forum from regular 997 forum

I needed more technical threads/info than who does what to their car...

 

Thanks for all the comments really appreciate it...

Lease on the m3 is up on April... Starting to eye some GT3/RS right now and will report back...

Another Q how is the maintanance? I am semi competent and how are simple task like oil changes on the car? Ive never worked on a Rear Engine vehicle before just wonder if its still a simple task?

Thanks again

Jeff

 

Well, today's new Porsches are very different from pre-1998 ones. There is no longer a dip stick that you can check the oil level easily yourself. The drysump system is still on the GT3 but the regular 996 M96 engine family and the new 9A1 family of engines are not drysumped and the newest engines are direct injection. The level of complexity that new modern porsches offer makes any degree of maintenance to be quite dubious without lot's of electronic/IT support (costly proprietary data interface modules running PCM, PASM, PSM, ABS, etc. ) Try investing $15-$50K in factory diagnostic equipment. 2010 GT3's come with added costs of new torque wrench to remove the wheel lug nuts ($3000 to $7000 for C-GT wrench). How do you change oil? Brake pads? without proper tools?

 

Jeff

Speaking from another 2006 M3 owner's view (I still have the M3) - get the RS. It's only $15K difference between GT3 and RS now days and you don't need to spend the time and money to mod your GT3 to look like a RS. Granted RS practically has no performance benefit over GT3 other than couple lbs lighter and more cellulite on the rear end (wider butt lol) it will have better resale and make you feel just that much more unique. Both choices are great by the way and DIY for minor maintenance is pretty easy

Mike

 

JoeyG...your the man!

Hey Jeff...this is the perfect one for you!
PM me for pricing if you are interested.

 

Hey Mike I do remember your posts from m3forums...

I do remember seeing you name on some threads and it seems like you moved up nicely...

I am definitely leaning towards the RS but waiting for the right one to come along...

Talked to a few M guys that made the same change and I know for sure that the GT3 RS or Not is the way for me vs Turbo if I wanna look for the feel from the E46 but 10x better?

Appreciate the reply Pfan and I understand that I will need to tools if i wanna do everything... But I am only to do minor diy stuff like a oil change...

I do know a porsche master mechanic in my area and will call on his services if need be...

Thanks again for all the feedback... Will post pictures once everything is said and done...

 

Jeff,
best wishes with your search for the RS. I was looking at a 2007 GT3 from Napleton Porsche in Illinois last Nov. and it was going for about $80-85K with about 5000 miles (mostly track) on the odometer. Now I think RS are trading hands at around $115K-$135K depending on condition and mileage. I wound up getting a 2010 GT3 3.8 with PCCB for somewhere in the same price range as the RS ($125K, 360 miles, used).

I wonder if that choice will be worth the premium for negligible improvements in specs (extra 20 HP, PCCB= $40K??).

 

Feel free to drop me an email or call to discuss any options.

I also have a white RS F/S - Its absolutely perfect.

 

That is great information to know...

Thanks very much for the heads up...

I have taken a look and it has varied from 82k to 120k on the GT3 Non RS and RS models that I have seen on the market...

Of Course the RS typicall are on closer to the 100k mark...

The good thing that Ive seen is low mileage on 80% of the cars out there... (roughly 5000 to 7000 miles)

I can be pretty patient so I am sure in due time the right deal with come along...

I am hoping for a southern california car so I can have my tech take a good look at the car prior to purchase...

 

Yes, a PPI is very necessary unless you are getting a Porsche certified preown with extended warranty GT3/RS. Again the best advice from Bruce Anderson is always get the latest and best condition model you can afford. Hence I chose the 2010 GT3.

 

I have heard that to replace the street brakes (with dealer) costed around $1800,

I then heard that one PCCB rotor alone costs around $5000!

For you, and how you described what you would use the car for, I would get steel brakes.

I would also not get the RS (especially as almost or maybe all have PCCBs). The GT3 is enough for what you described.

John

 

The PCCB option has been discussed ad nauseum on Rennlist.com and the consensus is if you are planning to track then make sure you are using the right pads (green Motorsports PCCB pads) and break (bed) them in properly with 10 consecutive stops from 100 mph to 50 mph before using them on the track. Otherwise for street driving the OEM pads are going to be just fine and the second generation PCCB rotors should last a very long time with the advantage of lighter unsprung weight, little brake dust, and no rusting of the rotors. If getting car used then the previous first owner has paid for the option so it basically was a gift (the depreciation was absorbed by the other buyer). Also I think the conversion (back to steel rotors) can always be done if you are afraid of damaging the PCCB's while tracking.