GT3/GT2 Performance and Track Discussion on the Porsche GT3 and GT2

Voltphreaks 5.5 lbs lithium-ion nano battery

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  #31  
Old 03-01-2010 | 04:08 PM
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[quote=XPGT2;2746622]
Originally Posted by mikymu
Wow, there are alot of fear and concerns about these Li-ion battery. It's worth the price for me since I get to shave 39 lbs and it has many build in safety and convenience features unlike an off the shelve brainless battery. I am done messing with conventional light weight battery. They don't last long and no way to prevent them from total discharge. I don't want to start carrying jumper cable again


In my case the $1200+ would be better spent on instruction and track time as loosing 39#'s is the least of my problems.


Peter
LOL

I much rather spend that instructional fee of $1200 on a Hawaii vacation. I have plenty of excellent drivers to learn from locally and I pay them with a thanks and a hand shake
 
  #32  
Old 03-02-2010 | 02:35 AM
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Another note on Odyssey PC680. In order to get the equivalent output of the VPH750 Li-ion battery, you need a 24 pound Odyssey PC925 instead of the lighter PC680
 
  #33  
Old 03-02-2010 | 03:31 AM
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It takes me all of 3 minutes to change batteries, and I don't need a light weight battery for street driving. I only use the light ones for track weekends so I'll put in and take out when needed rather than have the battery cut itself off.

Is the battery still strong enough to run the alarm and auxillary stuff when it cuts itself off?
 
  #34  
Old 03-02-2010 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
Is the battery still strong enough to run the alarm and auxillary stuff when it cuts itself off?
lol

You need a solar panel for that
 
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Old 03-02-2010 | 12:37 PM
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Well my point is that I wouldn't keep this on a DD or regularly street driven car anyways if my Alarm was going to get cut off every time I parked because the battery was saving energy.

I'd rather take my time and switch to a real battery. IMO these batteries are for recreational purposes, not regular street driving, and that includes the Voltphreaks, which at it's price point is unpractical for my intended usage which is track weekends only.

I'm not saying it wouldn't be a lot easier to deal with over a track weekend, but that I don't mind jumping the car in the morning if I don't have electricity overnight and being ok for the rest of the day over the weekend.
 
  #36  
Old 03-02-2010 | 03:30 PM
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Nice writeup!
That is a very light battery.....I hope it works out for you in the long run.....meaning I hope it lasts you awhile!

And get some better fitting latex gloves! Those things look 3 sizes too big!
Try Black Lighting nitrile gloves, they are awesome!
 
  #37  
Old 03-02-2010 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
Well my point is that I wouldn't keep this on a DD or regularly street driven car anyways if my Alarm was going to get cut off every time I parked because the battery was saving energy.

I'd rather take my time and switch to a real battery. IMO these batteries are for recreational purposes, not regular street driving, and that includes the Voltphreaks, which at it's price point is unpractical for my intended usage which is track weekends only.

I'm not saying it wouldn't be a lot easier to deal with over a track weekend, but that I don't mind jumping the car in the morning if I don't have electricity overnight and being ok for the rest of the day over the weekend.
Sure thing chevy. OEM batter is the best option for street

Originally Posted by AWD
Nice writeup!
That is a very light battery.....I hope it works out for you in the long run.....meaning I hope it lasts you awhile!

And get some better fitting latex gloves! Those things look 3 sizes too big!
Try Black Lighting nitrile gloves, they are awesome!
Yes, I hope so too. Love that little 5 lbs Li-ion batter. I don't need a brick to crack over my starter. I would have used a Duracell 9V battery if that is all it took

I like my clothing and gloves loose. I will only use tight fitting gloves in OR
 
  #38  
Old 03-03-2010 | 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
Well my point is that I wouldn't keep this on a DD or regularly street driven car anyways if my Alarm was going to get cut off every time I parked because the battery was saving energy.

I'd rather take my time and switch to a real battery. IMO these batteries are for recreational purposes, not regular street driving, and that includes the Voltphreaks, which at it's price point is unpractical for my intended usage which is track weekends only.

I'm not saying it wouldn't be a lot easier to deal with over a track weekend, but that I don't mind jumping the car in the morning if I don't have electricity overnight and being ok for the rest of the day over the weekend.
Hi chevy,

Tony from Voltphreaks here. Good points. Want to clarify though since it's a common misconception that the Voltphreaks battery's shutoff makes you lose your alarm, radio settings, etc, versus a lead-acid battery.

The battery won't cut off every time you park the car. The purpose of the cutoff is to give you enough power to start the car a few times even if you let it discharge, and also to prevent battery damage (once you excessively over-discharge a lithium battery, it is ruined). For all intents and purposes you can pretend the battery doesn't have a cutoff, since the cutoff will only shut off the battery when it's a few hours from "shutting off" due to being discharged anyways. For example, let's say you're using a Voltphreaks VPH750, and a lightweight lead-acid battery of the exact same capacity (will be 4 times as heavy as the Voltphreaks).

For the VPH750 with cutoff, battery will shut off and you will lose your alarm and settings after parking the car for 2 weeks. If the battery didn't have the cutoff, you'll still lose your alarm and radio settings when the battery drains completely but it will be 2 weeks plus 6 hours that it lasts rather than 2 weeks.

The lightweight lead-acid battery will discharge and you'll STILL LOSE your alarm and radio settings after parking the car for 2 weeks and 6 hours (same as the Voltphreaks without the cutoff). Note that this behavior is the EXACT SAME as with the Voltphreaks battery except that you get 2 weeks "park time" with the Voltphreaks battery, and 2 weeks + 6 hours with the lead-acid battery since the lead-acid battery doesn't contain a cutoff. Except that with the Voltphreaks battery, you don't return to a dead car and need a jump-start. You press a button, and start your car.

The cutoff only activates right before the you'll lose your alarm and settings anyways, and only after a few weeks of being parked. The same thing applies to leaving your headlights on while the car is parked. A standard lead-acid battery might last 6 hours, while with the cutoff, the equivalent Voltphreaks battery will last 5 hours and 55 minutes.

If your car is a DD or regularly street driven, then the battery will never cutoff. This is because you don't leave the car parked for long periods.

If you drive the car only once every month or two, that makes ANY lightweight battery unsuitable, unless you hook up a battery tender, since it will drain to empty in only a few weeks and you'll lose all your settings and alarm, and you'll need to charge the battery or jump-start the battery (or in the case of the Voltphreaks battery, press a button and start your car). The fact that a car is regularly driven actually is a reason that makes a lightweight battery suitable. Hope this makes sense!

- Tony
 
  #39  
Old 03-03-2010 | 03:00 AM
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Tony, love that "save my butt" switch. I used it once when I left everything on while monkey around the car for 4 hours. Battery turn itself off to prevent complete discharge and all I had to do is press the little red switch inside the car and it's ALIVE!
 
  #40  
Old 03-03-2010 | 03:04 AM
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Tony,

Thanks for the clarification, that makes a lot more sense.
 
  #41  
Old 03-03-2010 | 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mikymu
Tony, love that "save my butt" switch. I used it once when I left everything on while monkey around the car for 4 hours. Battery turn itself off to prevent complete discharge and all I had to do is press the little red switch inside the car and it's ALIVE!
Glad it's helped! - Tony
 
  #42  
Old 03-03-2010 | 11:33 AM
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I would also look at http://www.4xspower.com

I purchased a 680 battery through Titan Motorsports (a vendor of the forum) and have had nothing but great performance from it. They are also working on a 12V lithium battery for street applications now. Their LR48ck is what Titan is running in their race cars now.
 
  #43  
Old 04-22-2010 | 02:33 AM
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Rad aka NJ-GT gave me a good suggestion that I should put some form of cover between the Li-ion battery and the fuel tank below just in case something happen to the battery that it won't damage the fuel tank case as shown below.



It's a pretty easy mod. You can get a thin aluminum sheet form your local hardware store. Trace out the shape of the heavy OEM battery tray and cut it with a metal sheet cutter.





Test fit the aluminum sheet and I wrap the sharp edge with door edge molding





Finally I cut out a none slip plastic mat from Lowe's for the aluminum sheet and the cover between the Li-ion battery and the fuel tank case is done

 
  #44  
Old 04-23-2010 | 12:14 AM
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yeah always better to be safe than sorry mike. mines is no super lightweight like yours yet i still put the oem battery tray back on. besides it's just a pound.

 
  #45  
Old 04-23-2010 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by speedoflight
yeah always better to be safe than sorry mike. mines is no super lightweight like yours yet i still put the oem battery tray back on. besides it's just a pound.
My homemade battery tray look better than yours LOL. Great looking battery Joe.

 


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