Cross Threaded brake caliper bolts
#1
Cross Threaded brake caliper bolts
I hate to admit my stupidity, but as I was changing out my front brake rotors on my '07 997 GT3, I have cross threaded the bottom caliper bolt. I am scared to death that the whole hub assembly must be replaced. Does anyone know if this be tapped and repaired without replacing the whole assembly?
#5
You might be able to chase the threads in the hub with a tapered tap, but I would guess not. You may be able to tap it for the next larger size bolt.
Last edited by elh0102; 04-09-2010 at 08:58 AM.
#6
If you hav not, eventually you will.
On my last GT3 I Time serted all 8. Now I am considering doing the same or put studs in. At least the rear, you haveto take the caliper off each time you put new pads in.
On my last GT3 I Time serted all 8. Now I am considering doing the same or put studs in. At least the rear, you haveto take the caliper off each time you put new pads in.
#7
Threaded bolts
I have replaced all the thread inserts on my 997 GT3 Calipers. I've also replaced on guys with 996 TT's. I have the kit at home to perform the permanent fix. You can't re-thread the calipers, you have to use a thread insert. There is a company in NJ called Wurth Products that sells a product called TimeCerts (201-825-2710). You are going to ask for a screw thread insert kit for bolts M12 x 1.5. If you have any questions once you get the kit just let me know.
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#8
There is a company in NJ called Wurth Products that sells a product called TimeCerts (201-825-2710). You are going to ask for a screw thread insert kit for bolts M12 x 1.5. If you have any questions once you get the kit just let me know
I did the same thing, but I wonder now, if it would make more sense to put studs in with nuts instead of using the porsche bolts?
#9
CRGT3 - Don't feel stupid, as you see it happens to many of us. I was as careful as I could be, always used a calibrated torque wrench, and still stripped one of my rear uprights while changing pads.
Like the others have said, the fix is not to try to chase the threads, that is not possible in the aluminum upright. If you take it to the dealer, they will charge you $2k to replace the upright.
Either buy a kit, or take it to your trusty local independant and have Timecerts installed. Don't try coil inserts or anything but Timecerts. I wish Porsche had designed the uprights with studs instead of hardened steel threading into cast aluminum, but that is the way it is.
Like the others have said, the fix is not to try to chase the threads, that is not possible in the aluminum upright. If you take it to the dealer, they will charge you $2k to replace the upright.
Either buy a kit, or take it to your trusty local independant and have Timecerts installed. Don't try coil inserts or anything but Timecerts. I wish Porsche had designed the uprights with studs instead of hardened steel threading into cast aluminum, but that is the way it is.
#10
Thanks to everyone for the great tip on the Time Certs. I have ordered them already. I am a bit relieved to hear that I am not the only one to have run into this problem. Thanks again.
#14
looking into time certs, a new caliper for me is $1500+, i can only imagine on a 997. now if only i could remember that my impact should ONLY be used for taking on/off lugnuts, thats what i got it for
#15
Thank god everyone is recommending time serts and not heli coils!
Another option is to pick up a rethreading kit if it isn't too terribly mashed up. Sears has a nice standard/metric kit for about 70 bucks.
The biggest advice I can give on caliper bolts is to get the caliper flush against the carrier at both the top and bottom locations, before trying to thread the bolt in. If the caliper is at any angle at all, you are going to hammer the threads. Also, thread by hand first, and when it gets tight, switch to a STUBBY ratchet and slowly turn the top and bottom in back and forth until you know both are going in correctly. If you try to just put in the top first all the way, it is asking for trouble.
Another option is to pick up a rethreading kit if it isn't too terribly mashed up. Sears has a nice standard/metric kit for about 70 bucks.
The biggest advice I can give on caliper bolts is to get the caliper flush against the carrier at both the top and bottom locations, before trying to thread the bolt in. If the caliper is at any angle at all, you are going to hammer the threads. Also, thread by hand first, and when it gets tight, switch to a STUBBY ratchet and slowly turn the top and bottom in back and forth until you know both are going in correctly. If you try to just put in the top first all the way, it is asking for trouble.