Nitto NT-01's, right around $1000 shipped from OnLineTires. Don't know what size tires you need but worth checking out. Comparable to the Toyo RA1's.

 

I will say it again and I know many **** on it, but.
The Toyo R888's provide the great compromise between costs, useable wear, effectiveness on the track and street use.
Driven on them in a salvage South Florida rainfall on the highway and they drive true.
okay my 2 cents before Obama taxes.

Ranger

 

How do the Toyo RA1 compare to the Michelin Sport Cups as far as performance and wear?

 

No way the R100s last as long as the R6. They are faster and stickier, so they pretty much HAVE to wear faster as well. The folks that I talk to that run these on their GT3s are getting about 12 HC before they cord. Maybe a couple more, but no where near 20 - which you can nurse out of the R6s. [for a true racing slick you really need more -camber [-4 if you can] and you should contemplate a higher spring rate to maximize them - say 1000+ all the way around].

As for price, R6 rears are about $330 each, and fronts around $300. For the R100, you are looking at about $250ish more per set. BUT, that's only for 18". I don't believe the R100 is out in 19" sizes yet.

As for 1 weekend on R6s, that seems a bit off. I typically get at least 2 full weekends out of a set. From sticker tires, they are really fast for 4-6 HC, then "good" for the next 10 HC, then slippery but still usable until they cord - which usually happens around 20, but sometimes I get out to 24. The last few HCs are a car control clinic, as they get really loose. To help extend life, you should be flipping and rotating the tires pretty religiously - and setup is critical. I rotate side/side after each track day, and flip every weekend or so. As for setup, you might consider around -3 camber in the front and around -2 (+) in the back. Toe settings need to be accurate as well, or you will chew up the inside of the tire.

Lastly, I think the new Goodyear Eagle RS is out now, but I haven't heard of any GT3'ers trying these. If anyone feels like a guinea pig, please post results

-td

 

In the price/performance category, RA1 wins hands down. They are a little slower than Cups, but wear like stone. If you get them shaved, they are "fast" out of the box. You can run RA1s right down to the cords, whereas the Cups heat cycle out. I remember getting 30+ HCs out of my RA1s - and I loved it! But then I got on the Hoosier crack pipe - and it's like high speed internet vs dial up. You never want to go back...

-td

 

This has turned out to be a very informative thread. I think I'm going with the Toyo RA1 for my first set of 18s then move to the Hoosier R6 after a few more track days in the RS!

 

What size are you using in the R6's when they are 18?

 

+1. RA1's and NT01's are the same compound (just a different tread design). Super predictable, last ALOT longer than Hoosiers, and to be honest, you'll be just about as fast as someone who is trying to get the last few heat cycles out of their hoosiers, except, you still retain the predictable handling. The NT01 is a bit faster out of the box because it comes at 6/32nds, and the tread block design doesnt squirm quite as much, but RA1's don't need shaving, they will just squirm a bit more the first day until you wear down them down a bit.

I can't imagine a more fun, predictable tire to explore the limits on a 911. They both keep getting better until they cord, and you'll likely cord them before you heat cycle them out. R888's go away too fast, and don't offer nearly the same predictable performance. There's a reason the spec-miata series went back to RA1's.

 

By your questions about 18" wheels, I am guessing you are running 19" wheels. So what size combo of R6's are you using? 265/345? I am looking for confirmation that 265 (on a 19" wheel) will clear the front. Thanks.

 

Exactly. I shave RA1 to 5/32 to get rid of the squirming the first 3 sessions and I think they last better that way also!

 

The Hoosier R6's are wonderful tires for the track. But as others have said, it probably makes more sense to go with semi's or road tires for your first few track days.

Thanks for all the info. This is seriously one of the best threads out there for tires.

 

235 front, and 325 rear. To avoid a big difference from stock and gearing issues, etc.

 

Not speaking directly to the OP, but I generally believe the first 20 track track days that someone partakes in should involve a non-slick tire. Street tires for the first 3-5 days, and then a switch to a treaded race tire, such as the R888 or RA1. My opinion of the R888 vs. RA1 debate seems to mirror many of the previous posters. We use the R888 in Time Attack because it's super fast for 3-4 laps, but falls off BADLY after that. The RA1 has slightly less overall grip (about .5 second/lap), but is far more consistent. The NT01 is very similar to the RA1 in both compound and construction, and is a favorite of the P car community. That is the tire I would suggest strongly for track day # 5-20.

At that point, you can decide if you want to spring for Hooisers, which will wear out 2-3 times as quickly, but provide significantly more grip and are multiple seconds/lap faster. I have used all of the compounds. DOT group: A6/R6. Non-DOT Group: R80/R100. There is a common misconception that the R80/R100 cycle or cord out faster than te A6/R6. From my experience, that is not the case. They last just as long, if not longer, depending on how you drive them. And when an R80/R100 goes "off" it's still faster than an R6. You just need to be careful with handling the tires, and being very fast with your hands and feet behind the wheel. They wiggle more, and don't communicate as well. But hell, they are FAST!

Sharif

 

Interesting. I have been getting inconsistent feedback regarding r80/100 longevity. Some of the hardcore folks I communicate with are reporting cording R80/100s well before 15 HC. Perhaps it is about setup and/or driving style.

And when you say "depending on how you drive them" - what does that mean? Is there any other way but flat out?

To get some data points, what car are you driving, its weight, TC on/off, and what are your alignment settings? Spring rates? Are you solid everywhere? What temps are you getting across the R80/100s? Are you driving them the same way as R6s? Or are you using less slip angle?

Sorry for the 20 questions, but I want to figure out why some folks get R80/100 to "last," and others are seeing cording rather quickly.

Cheers,

-td

 

I have experience with the R80/R100's on much heavier AWD cars, with more hp and much heavier than the GT3/GT2. I havent tired them on the GT3 yet, but with a 3000lb car, 2wd, and much less power I am speculating the results would be comparable with respect to wear.

As an example, the set of R100's I used this past weekend on the GT-R (3850lbs with driver 550whp) had 13 HC's on them, and then I put 4 more on them this weekend. Total of 17 HC's and the tires performed very well. I'd say about 85% of their new strength. Ran a 1:29.5 at Road Atlanta in 115F track temps. No cords yet.

In terms of how you drive the car, I am referring to how much sliding and aggression you put into your laps. You can have two drivers with the same lap time, and same car, but one driver can be harder on their tires, so if the car moves around alot and your hands are busy, you are going to go through tires faster than the guy that's more calm and smooth behind the wheel.