Shadowman with a Couple GT3.2 RS Questions
#1
08-31-2010, 06:18 PM
Shadowman with a Couple GT3.2 RS Questions
The gal looks stunning and is soon to be exercised; her nose and other high risk areas were wrapped in plastic yesterday so we are very close.
Now my questions are as follows;
I am not familiar with the center lock wheel system and frankly have not researched it.
1. What is the process to remove the wheel based on one’s personal experience?
2. Can the process be completed without causing any cosmetic damage to the ? removable cap and the center lock?
3. What are you folks using for a torque wrench that gives both the proper value and ease of use?
Next; as mentioned before, Porsche states a methodical break-in process of 2000 miles at an RPM under 4500; in my world this is a long time unless I make it a project. I typically follow the recommendations to a fault as such I ask; what is the general consensus from those presently exercising their gal?
Thank you
Shadowman
Now my questions are as follows;
I am not familiar with the center lock wheel system and frankly have not researched it.
1. What is the process to remove the wheel based on one’s personal experience?
2. Can the process be completed without causing any cosmetic damage to the ? removable cap and the center lock?
3. What are you folks using for a torque wrench that gives both the proper value and ease of use?
Next; as mentioned before, Porsche states a methodical break-in process of 2000 miles at an RPM under 4500; in my world this is a long time unless I make it a project. I typically follow the recommendations to a fault as such I ask; what is the general consensus from those presently exercising their gal?
Thank you
Shadowman
#2
08-31-2010, 06:46 PM
tool: http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
#3
08-31-2010, 06:58 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bellevue, WA, USA
Posts: 145
Rep Power: 20 
My service guys just removed and reinstalled my wheels for some brake pad work. They stressed that it was a 2 man job to safely remove the wheels without damage.
Looks like it worked too cause upon a cursory examination during a visit (car is still with them) I didn't see any cosmetic damage. Will know more tomorrow when I pick the car up and go thru it with a magnifying glass.
Looks like it worked too cause upon a cursory examination during a visit (car is still with them) I didn't see any cosmetic damage. Will know more tomorrow when I pick the car up and go thru it with a magnifying glass.
#4
08-31-2010, 07:21 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bellevue, WA, USA
Posts: 145
Rep Power: 20 
#5
08-31-2010, 08:35 PM
tool: http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
I will follow the link and then proceed as described
All the best
Shadowman
#6
08-31-2010, 08:38 PM
My service guys just removed and reinstalled my wheels for some brake pad work. They stressed that it was a 2 man job to safely remove the wheels without damage.
Looks like it worked too cause upon a cursory examination during a visit (car is still with them) I didn't see any cosmetic damage. Will know more tomorrow when I pick the car up and go thru it with a magnifying glass.
Looks like it worked too cause upon a cursory examination during a visit (car is still with them) I didn't see any cosmetic damage. Will know more tomorrow when I pick the car up and go thru it with a magnifying glass.
Brake pads..... ?? alternate pads? Does your gal have the ceramic/composite system?
I will await your up close and personal inspection and if an opportunity please ask if any additional tips.
Thank you
Shadowman
#7
08-31-2010, 08:41 PM
She is gray or as referred to as gray/black with red accents. My only wish is that she had silver or black wheels. The red are growing on me however I think that the silver as seen in pictures looks better and allows the yellow calipers to be seen better.
Takes care
Shadowman
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#8
08-31-2010, 08:53 PM
tool: http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
#10
09-01-2010, 08:55 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bellevue, WA, USA
Posts: 145
Rep Power: 20 My service manager told me they do it with 2 persons, one to hold the socket in place and not allow any lateral movement, while the other breaks/torques. Using the correct socket is vital too as it has a rubber coating on the inside of the socket that prevents marring. I know that they had to take the wheels off at least 2-3 times for the work I asked them to do.
I will mention that shop I use seems to be very meticulous and puts the extra effort into doing it right (versus fast). So wheel removal without damage seems possibly if done carefully.
#11
09-01-2010, 09:17 PM
Just got my car back and gave the wheels a thorough flashlight inspection...and I can't see any scratches or scrapes on either the locking nut or the center cap.
My service manager told me they do it with 2 persons, one to hold the socket in place and not allow any lateral movement, while the other breaks/torques. Using the correct socket is vital too as it has a rubber coating on the inside of the socket that prevents marring. I know that they had to take the wheels off at least 2-3 times for the work I asked them to do.
I will mention that shop I use seems to be very meticulous and puts the extra effort into doing it right (versus fast). So wheel removal without damage seems possibly if done carefully.
My service manager told me they do it with 2 persons, one to hold the socket in place and not allow any lateral movement, while the other breaks/torques. Using the correct socket is vital too as it has a rubber coating on the inside of the socket that prevents marring. I know that they had to take the wheels off at least 2-3 times for the work I asked them to do.
I will mention that shop I use seems to be very meticulous and puts the extra effort into doing it right (versus fast). So wheel removal without damage seems possibly if done carefully.
Meticulous = great!!
I was happy to read your comments and FYI I ordered a spare set of the plastic center caps today; at $50 each retail if I never use them I will have the peace of mind knowing that if needed they will be on site.
Thank you for the information as shared
Takes care
Shadowman
#12
09-01-2010, 09:19 PM
tool: http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
cosmetic damage. the plastic cap will get bent, no matter how careful you are.
1. set parking brake, gear in neutral, untorque rear
2. to untorque front, you need some one stepping on the brakes, or wheel will free turn.
3. use above tool but take the third part (calibrated handle) off and if you are somewhat strong, you can untorque no prob. if you are weak, then you need to get another longer breaker bar.
4 once untorque, you can choose to jack the car off the ground and continue taking the nut off.
with above somewhat incomplete description and that tool in your hand next to the car, everything else will become obvious. trust me.
as far as breaking in.... i drive it at 5000rpm as soon as i get the car off the lot. then progressively go harder full throttle to 6000 and 8000 rpm. just make sure engine is warmed up. i see no value in break in by the book. but that's me.
mooty
Thank yoiu again as I ordered the torque wrench today
All the best
Shadowman
#13
09-01-2010, 09:57 PM
Meticulous = great!!
I was happy to read your comments and FYI I ordered a spare set of the plastic center caps today; at $50 each retail if I never use them I will have the peace of mind knowing that if needed they will be on site.
Thank you for the information as shared
Takes care
Shadowman
I was happy to read your comments and FYI I ordered a spare set of the plastic center caps today; at $50 each retail if I never use them I will have the peace of mind knowing that if needed they will be on site.
Thank you for the information as shared
Takes care
Shadowman
but with each successive taking on/off the wheels can wheel cap. the plastic cap will bend. you will see what i mean once you start doing it. it's stupid to charge $50/ea on those ugh.
#14
09-01-2010, 10:16 PM
In my world I would sooner pay the price for the caps now and tuck them away for that evening when I am sevicing the gal and find one or more that I am not longer happy with and smile knowing that I have a fresh set.
Futhermore when they were ordered today I was told that they are a from Germany item.
mooty thank you again
Takes care
Shadowman
#15
09-02-2010, 05:34 AM
Suncoast has the "RS" center caps for like $120/set (red and gold). Not cheap. May as well order a few sets though as they get bent up very quickly if you're taking the caps on and off.