Hey Dan,

Looks like a great and well priced kit for the turbo boys, but doesn't really cater for us GT3 N/A boys. If it did I'd be all over it

P.S did you get my return old steering wheel back at HQ ?

Cheers
Dave.

 

Welcome Jamie,

Hopefully the more kits we can get together the better the price

 

Adam - I will weight all that later today. Waiting on that other Paypal still. Let me know!

 

Dave, shoot me an email with that return tracking and I will check.

Back to topic

 

It would be the same pricing for the GT3 engines, unless you want to opt for the lighter titanium connecting rods. The GT3s can also be larger like a 4.2 and with smaller journal rods that will yield more horsepower gains while reducing reciprocating weight.

Turbo engines can just turn the boost up and make the power unlike you GT3 guys who will need mods like stroked motors, ported polished heads, bigger valves in the heads, cams, etc. on top of the regular intake and exhaust both turbos and GT3s do.

I wonder if anyone tried to compete in a Time Attack event with a GT3 and use nitrous to help with the straight line acceleration. GT3s are already super around bends and nitrous would help on the straights to lower lap times.

Chevy won the event one year, in what I think was a Cobalt, don't sure if that was the case, by using nitrous. It was a small 4 cylinder engine car of sort from chevy.

Sorry about the ADD moment. hehehe

I am getting closer to button up everything to put this kit together so bare with me for a short while longer. I am also trying to look into CNC port options for the heads. Do any of you know what companies are offering CNC porting for turbos and GT3s??

 

We'll also need tuning for the GT3's especially for cams, heads etc... If we can all agree on a similar build this will help the tuner immensely and make the kit more marketable to a wider audience. EVOMS already has a 3.9L tune for Sharkwerks, and I think they did a 4.0L for Champion.

Someone will have to convince me that going to 4.2 is OK, as I've heard even the new 4.0L from the factory isn't holding together all that well...

 

To your first comment: EVOMS had nothing to do with the Champion build.

2nd comment: For a little convincing checkout the Champion Motorsport thread on the .1RS build. What street GT3/RS has put down 485 rwhp and 366 rwtq? Regards to how it's running, well it's an animal and revs faster than a dentist's drill.

\m/

 

Was it GIAC that tuned it, like I said, I wasn't sure...

I've read Rangers thread on Rennlist and checked out Champions thread as well, it's very impressive work!

The thing that's a little confusing is the various ways everyone is getting to larger displacement, there doesn't seem to be consensus on the "best" way to do it (if there is such a thing). Some are just stroking with stock bore, some are just boring with stock stroke and some are doing both to get to 4.2L... Can someone explain the benefits of the various ways? I get the basics, but not sure on a flat six the best way to go about it to give the engine a long life in dual street/track car duty...

 

Here are some pics of the crank:

 

Very nice, do you have spec's?

 

I have all but the pistons' specs. Talking with both CP and JE trying to figure out the best setup; light weight but strong at a bore size where there are great ring packages available. I will wait till everything is in before I post the specs. Waiting on the Ductile Iron Sleeves, Cylinder Liners to complete the whole package.
What I can say is that the rod journals will be smaller, as well as the wrist pin diameter; both to save weight.

The crank in the pics has a 80.4mm stroke. We might end up with a hair more stroke to get a true 4000+cc engine.

I am also looking into CNC porting options for the heads and possibly going with bigger valves to improve flow. I have found people who can hand port but I prefer CNC porting to ensure even ports. Thanks to bigger bore size, we can go with bigger valves, lash around the valves nicely and do a nice bowl work in the combustion chamber to improve flow even further. Even if you don't do the CNC porting and do the rest it would still help a ton.

 

Nice looking crank

This is coming together very nicely. Thanks again for your work sorting out these details

Dave.

 

Dave,

It was good to meet with you and Andy today. Looking forward to this project!

Jay

 

Great to meet you too James.

Looking forward to getting this sorted and up and running also.

Dave.

 

Waiting to hear on the pistons and Cylinder liners, Sleeves. That will determine the bore size, especially for the GT3 applications. Turbos will be around 102 but depending on the sleeves availability the bore can be around 104mm for the NA applications or if anyone wants to go with the largest bore size available. I would opt for going a little smaller than the maximum possible bore size so there is room for boring out for rebuilds down the road. Not that most of us would be very interested in things like that because once built right these motors should last us a very long time where we would probably be on the next project by the time for a rebuild comes or we just change the sleeves again. Best price I have found so far is $235 per sleeve; It started out at around $400 per.

Does anyone have specs on the head studs? Stud length, diameter? Thread pitch into the block?
This would be very helpful. I had some special studs made for my subaru motor which were 270K tensile strength as opposed to studs with 220K from ARP.

I might be able to do that again for us to make the build better and they might be more reasonably priced than some of the head stud kits I have seen that range from $700 to $1400. Its good to have the right connections. lol