Cross post from Rennlist and TeamSpeed GT3 forums; sorry, but I need answers! :-)

I have a 2010 GT3 that I have converted to 5-lug hubs. I ordered two sets of track wheels in January and they do not fit, dammit! (still fighting with company at this point, will reveal when appropriate) The fronts were too wide (their 9" wheel actually measures 9 1/4"), and the inner diameter of the inner barrel contacts the caliper. Scraped the paint off the calipers in two places when test fitting. Recall that in the 997.2 the steel rotors and calipers are the same 380mm size as all 997 PCCB's.

It appears that mono block wheels provide the possibility of more room. Candidates include:

(1) CCW C10: least expensive, quicker to get, responsive customer support; butt fugly, heavy, tires tend rotate on them, and weights don't stick well.

(2) BBS Model?: expensive, have a few in stock, but may take long to get the others, painted not anodized.

(3) Forgeline GA1R: expensive, look difficult to keep clean, painted not anodized, take four+ weeks to make.

Interested in input and recommendations based on experience using any of these, thank you.

Blasted wheels; the one thing I took for granted that they would fit; now it is costing me track time and I am missing events...

 

I would look into Finspeed as well... I have seen good things about their wheels and they are present in the Tudor championship as well. There are quite a few guys on TS and RL that use them for DEs.

 

Thanks, I am indeed checking out Finspeed. I spoke with Daniel the owner today, and they do have a solution. The wheels look great and they can easily modify them, too.

The only issue is the price, by the time you add in all the extras (justified by the time it takes to perform the machining), the price per wheel increases by about $600 per wheel. I may need to scale back my wish list list...

 

Just to clarify, the wheels RedRSA priced are not our standard wheel, they have the Ultralight and Ultralight-Pro options (approx 8.5 hrs of additional machining per wheel). Without these options we are at $3640/set.

Wheels with the Ultralight and Ultralight-Pro options:

 

I run multiple sets of CCW wheels with R6 and slicks and have had no issues with weights or weight. No complaints.

 

Thanks, good to know thank you. CCW's are probably the lowest price of those I'm considering, and they also have the shortest delivery time of 1-2 weeks. If true, that is impressive.

 

That is correct. I had configured the wheels with four of the Mechanical Wheel Options, including the Ultralight, Ulltralight-Pro, RT and Knurled Bead seats. The two ultralight options together added $500/wheel. They provide the advantages of reduced unsprung rotational mass and improved appearance, but require significant additional machining and associated cost to achieve it. As options, they can be deleted.

I remain very impressed with the quality of the wheels and the people/company standing behind them.

 

I have bee using ForgeLine wheels for years with multiple sets. I currently have the GA1R on my 2011 GTS. The fit is perfect and they are not hard to clean. I just purchased a 2010 GT3 and will order a set of GA1Rs for it as well.

 

Looks great, Alan, thanks for posting photos.

 

Thank you for all of the feedback. Based on input and experience from users, it was obvious I had two really great choices in Finspeed and Forgeline, and I've decided to order Finspeed Wheels for my GT3. The wheels are in production as we speak, with a promise of receipt in time to attend my next scheduled event April 3!

Once received and fitment is tested and confirmed (no issues anticipated), I will post photos and a description of my rationale for selecting Finspeed.

 

good choice with either Finspeed or Forgelines.

Hopefully, you chose the option for the knurled beads, because the tires slip a lot on the wheel while tracking.

 

Thanks; yes, I have experienced the PITA of Hoosiers rotating on my previous Fikse's, so I added the knurled bead seat option. In fact, that was one of the features that drove my selection, as Forgeline didn't have an option.

I sure hope that your reference was to tire slippage without the knurled bead seats - not with! Please tell me that the knurling stops the problem...

 

Knurled will help prevent slippage of the tires. And, maybe use hairspray when mounting your tires next time.

 

My hope is that the knurled bead seat option eliminates tire slip, and without using hairspray.

Others can likely claim much longer history, but I was the first I knew of in the DC area to try hairspray over ten years ago when everything else failed. It is the best solution I had found short of having the beadseats physically altered, but it is a pain in the a$$ and makes tire changes much more of a project than I prefer - especially on road trips. And it requires setting up a temporary workspace for the assembly line at the local tire shop. For anyone that cares, here is the process that I found works best at reducing tire rotation; it is necessary to coordinate in advance with a patient tire store staff as it takes too long for them to do and it requires your personal involvement to do it right.

• Use nylon weight removal tool to remove the weights without scratching the inner barrel; easiest with the tire mounted.
• Have tires removed and sit the wheels in old tires to protect them.
  [i]Set up a small area with a roller seat and a piece of old carpet for working on the wheels and easily rotating the wheels without scratching them.
• Wear extra thick Sure-Grip latex gloves that usually hold up for at least one set. Use lacquer thinner on a cloth shop rag to remove the old dried-on hair spray from the wheels. Also use lacquer thinner to clean the mold release compounds from the beads of the new tires.
• Spray a medium coat of hairspray on the beads of the new tires and wipe it with your gloved fingers to spread it out allow it to dry a little quicker. Apply a thin coat of hairspray to the wheel beadseats and allow to dry.
• Have a trusted tire guy (i.e., best in the shop) dry mount the tires.
• When taping the wheel weights, mark the tire near the valve stem so you monitor whether they move.

Oh, and some say I'm a little particular... ;-)

 

I had same difficulty with my 2007 GT3 ceramics. Purchased the correct wheels from Finspeed, F14-RT 18" last year. There light 22# & 18#, strong and low cost.