GT2/3 Sways!!
#1
GT2/3 Sways!!
What's up guys, im looking for GT3 or GT2 swaybars if anyone has to sell, and maybe whether some aftermarket sways would be better? They are hard to find, i know some of you guys have upgraded
Martin
Martin
#7
Eibach's seem to be used by the majority of people, hmm i was told to run GT3's though! Are you guys running strut tower bars, are they even that noticeable on this car?
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#8
Th3 GT2/GT# stabilizer bars and bushings are fine but you won't be able to use either the stock 996TT drop links or the GT2/GT3 drop links. You'll need new drop links. BTW the stock GT3 sway bars are cheap (same as the 996 GT3 Cup), the drop links are expensive in any case and don't work. We're working on replacements that do work and are adjustable so if you're running coil-vers you can remeove any preload after corner weight setting.
#9
Originally Posted by GT3Dave
Th3 GT2/GT# stabilizer bars and bushings are fine but you won't be able to use either the stock 996TT drop links or the GT2/GT3 drop links. You'll need new drop links. BTW the stock GT3 sway bars are cheap (same as the 996 GT3 Cup), the drop links are expensive in any case and don't work. We're working on replacements that do work and are adjustable so if you're running coil-vers you can remeove any preload after corner weight setting.
#10
I prefer the GT3 swaybars because they are tubular (lighter and offer plenty of stiffness).
You can only use drop links designed to work with a GT3 sway bar on a road car (one that doesn't have the swaybar attachment on the threaded coilover strut mounting) so the top end is a long bolt that goes through the rod end and then the upright (clamp to strut). Otherwise the lengths (and attachment method) are wrong.
The front GT3 swaybar will never be run stiffer than the middle position because thereafter that you begin to bend the front tub. So unless you are going to install a full cage with tubes to all the suspension pickup points and subframe mounting points this is all you need.
The rear sway bar is essentially the same issue. A longer link than the GT3 and the top end is a long bolt going through the rear upright clamp on the strut.
I'm waiting for some prototypes to test, but if you have access to a machine shop and rod ends you can make exactly what you want.
You can only use drop links designed to work with a GT3 sway bar on a road car (one that doesn't have the swaybar attachment on the threaded coilover strut mounting) so the top end is a long bolt that goes through the rod end and then the upright (clamp to strut). Otherwise the lengths (and attachment method) are wrong.
The front GT3 swaybar will never be run stiffer than the middle position because thereafter that you begin to bend the front tub. So unless you are going to install a full cage with tubes to all the suspension pickup points and subframe mounting points this is all you need.
The rear sway bar is essentially the same issue. A longer link than the GT3 and the top end is a long bolt going through the rear upright clamp on the strut.
I'm waiting for some prototypes to test, but if you have access to a machine shop and rod ends you can make exactly what you want.
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