Radiator Tragedy in the GT3!!!
#31
02-14-2009, 06:28 PM
Are there any screens that attach from front to avoid bumper removal and to make it easier to clean behind screen? That would be perfect.
#32
02-14-2009, 07:18 PM
I think you would have to fabricate your own. These look like they may attach to from the front, not sure, they have frames around them. the site I posed below, you can by trim to frame the screen and clips to attach it if you want to go that route. FYI i have no affiliation just found the parts helpful.
#33
02-15-2009, 05:37 AM
those look perfect !- I can't find them yet- I have been trying to fabricate with mesh and edging I use for front spoiler. Not satisfactory yet.
Last edited by Gofishracing; 02-15-2009 at 06:15 AM.
#34
02-15-2009, 08:25 AM
mounting the screens
some glue, some screw
1. Any concensus as to which method is better? Seems the screws would facilitate repairs in the event of a large stone striking the screen.
2. If you do screw the screen on, do you just use a self tapping sheet metal screw? Do you just screw in to the fiberglass or do you use speed nuts on the backside?
3. If you do use screws, are the easily visible from the outside? Should you try to use black screws?
4. If you use screws, what size?
1. Any concensus as to which method is better? Seems the screws would facilitate repairs in the event of a large stone striking the screen.
2. If you do screw the screen on, do you just use a self tapping sheet metal screw? Do you just screw in to the fiberglass or do you use speed nuts on the backside?
3. If you do use screws, are the easily visible from the outside? Should you try to use black screws?
4. If you use screws, what size?
#35
02-15-2009, 06:43 PM
I am going to post my DIY in another week or two. I had orders some powder coated screen, but when it came I think its to course so i just ordered some stainless steel screen, I will then pull the nose off and see what is what.
#38
02-19-2009, 02:34 PM
You'll probably laugh at me for saying this, but you would be surprised how much some types of mesh can cut your air flow! I would get something specifically designed for this sort of application.
#39
02-19-2009, 04:50 PM
Its going to be few weeks but I will post with pics. Its cold as S*%T out right now. I ran all last year with two types of screen just laying in the air vents. never did have a heating problem but planed on doing this a bit more professional So give me a bit more time to get it done. I just got the stainless steel screen I ordered. check it out. I used the middle one but you can pick
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...GroupID=SCREEN
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...GroupID=SCREEN
Last edited by toadinlaw; 02-19-2009 at 05:19 PM.
#40
03-01-2009, 05:48 PM
Its going to be few weeks but I will post with pics. Its cold as S*%T out right now. I ran all last year with two types of screen just laying in the air vents. never did have a heating problem but planed on doing this a bit more professional So give me a bit more time to get it done. I just got the stainless steel screen I ordered. check it out. I used the middle one but you can pick
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...GroupID=SCREEN
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...GroupID=SCREEN
#41
03-02-2009, 07:20 PM
Yes, Since my last post, I took one weekend to install my traqmate, last weekend I went to Hilton Head, it was 75 degrees so no work then. I come back to Ohio and its 17 degrees. I am going to get started this week I have two types of screen some large some small I will start a new thread with some picks as I go starting with the screen product and anything I come across on the bumper removal. Planning on using the DIY on bumper removal already posted hear. BTW once I get the screens installed I just ordered Ajustable Toe Links and locking plates from from Tarett Engineering, and I will do a DIY on that also.
#42
03-02-2009, 07:55 PM
Yes, Since my last post, I took one weekend to install my traqmate, last weekend I went to Hilton Head, it was 75 degrees so no work then. I come back to Ohio and its 17 degrees. I am going to get started this week I have two types of screen some large some small I will start a new thread with some picks as I go starting with the screen product and anything I come across on the bumper removal. Planning on using the DIY on bumper removal already posted hear. BTW once I get the screens installed I just ordered Ajustable Toe Links and locking plates from from Tarett Engineering, and I will do a DIY on that also.
#43
03-03-2009, 06:07 PM
I just finished doing my screens (the same material used as recommended from Daytonaviolet - thanks Daytonaviolet they look really good and fit the overall looks of the car very very well).
Be warned it is very time consuming to cut the screens properly to fit the narrow rim on the outside air inlets (the center is easy), make them look even from the left side to the right side and not interfere with the air duct mounted on the radiators. One of the lessons learned when glueing them onto the rim is to sand the rim abundantly not only on the top lip but also around the lip on the vertical part of the inlet (horizontal section when mounted on the car), there will be a little overrun of the epoxy and if not sanded well, the overrun will not stick. I used 1 minute epoxy to glue them on and on the one side where I forgot to sand the air inlet the epoxy does not stick well.
I have made some extra screens to fit the GT3 pumper inlets if anyone is interested, let me know - by far the most time consuming part of it.
On one of the threads there was a guide for removing the pumper. In addition to the guide, remove the headlights and the fog lights, inside the left headlight housing is the quick disconnect for the headlight washer system - a blue clip. On the side turn signal lights, you only need to remove one screw accessed from the wheel well, easiest done when removing the front wheel well cover screws then you can bend the plastic liner which will make the removal of that screw a lot easier.
One last recommendation is to get the most essential tool to make this job a lot easier. Get the work stand from Harbor freight $19.99 it will make the gluing part a million times easier and prevent you from scratching the paint on the pumper. Here is the web page: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38778
Good luck guys!
Be warned it is very time consuming to cut the screens properly to fit the narrow rim on the outside air inlets (the center is easy), make them look even from the left side to the right side and not interfere with the air duct mounted on the radiators. One of the lessons learned when glueing them onto the rim is to sand the rim abundantly not only on the top lip but also around the lip on the vertical part of the inlet (horizontal section when mounted on the car), there will be a little overrun of the epoxy and if not sanded well, the overrun will not stick. I used 1 minute epoxy to glue them on and on the one side where I forgot to sand the air inlet the epoxy does not stick well.
I have made some extra screens to fit the GT3 pumper inlets if anyone is interested, let me know - by far the most time consuming part of it.
On one of the threads there was a guide for removing the pumper. In addition to the guide, remove the headlights and the fog lights, inside the left headlight housing is the quick disconnect for the headlight washer system - a blue clip. On the side turn signal lights, you only need to remove one screw accessed from the wheel well, easiest done when removing the front wheel well cover screws then you can bend the plastic liner which will make the removal of that screw a lot easier.
One last recommendation is to get the most essential tool to make this job a lot easier. Get the work stand from Harbor freight $19.99 it will make the gluing part a million times easier and prevent you from scratching the paint on the pumper. Here is the web page: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38778
Good luck guys!
#44
03-03-2009, 06:41 PM
I just finished doing my screens (the same material used as recommended from Daytonaviolet - thanks Daytonaviolet they look really good and fit the overall looks of the car very very well).
Be warned it is very time consuming to cut the screens properly to fit the narrow rim on the outside air inlets (the center is easy), make them look even from the left side to the right side and not interfere with the air duct mounted on the radiators. One of the lessons learned when glueing them onto the rim is to sand the rim abundantly not only on the top lip but also around the lip on the vertical part of the inlet (horizontal section when mounted on the car), there will be a little overrun of the epoxy and if not sanded well, the overrun will not stick. I used 1 minute epoxy to glue them on and on the one side where I forgot to sand the air inlet the epoxy does not stick well.
I have made some extra screens to fit the GT3 pumper inlets if anyone is interested, let me know - by far the most time consuming part of it.
On one of the threads there was a guide for removing the pumper. In addition to the guide, remove the headlights and the fog lights, inside the left headlight housing is the quick disconnect for the headlight washer system - a blue clip. On the side turn signal lights, you only need to remove one screw accessed from the wheel well, easiest done when removing the front wheel well cover screws then you can bend the plastic liner which will make the removal of that screw a lot easier.
One last recommendation is to get the most essential tool to make this job a lot easier. Get the work stand from Harbor freight $19.99 it will make the gluing part a million times easier and prevent you from scratching the paint on the pumper. Here is the web page: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38778
Good luck guys!
Be warned it is very time consuming to cut the screens properly to fit the narrow rim on the outside air inlets (the center is easy), make them look even from the left side to the right side and not interfere with the air duct mounted on the radiators. One of the lessons learned when glueing them onto the rim is to sand the rim abundantly not only on the top lip but also around the lip on the vertical part of the inlet (horizontal section when mounted on the car), there will be a little overrun of the epoxy and if not sanded well, the overrun will not stick. I used 1 minute epoxy to glue them on and on the one side where I forgot to sand the air inlet the epoxy does not stick well.
I have made some extra screens to fit the GT3 pumper inlets if anyone is interested, let me know - by far the most time consuming part of it.
On one of the threads there was a guide for removing the pumper. In addition to the guide, remove the headlights and the fog lights, inside the left headlight housing is the quick disconnect for the headlight washer system - a blue clip. On the side turn signal lights, you only need to remove one screw accessed from the wheel well, easiest done when removing the front wheel well cover screws then you can bend the plastic liner which will make the removal of that screw a lot easier.
One last recommendation is to get the most essential tool to make this job a lot easier. Get the work stand from Harbor freight $19.99 it will make the gluing part a million times easier and prevent you from scratching the paint on the pumper. Here is the web page: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38778
Good luck guys!
#45
03-03-2009, 08:07 PM
No, I did not take any pictures, the pictures from Daytonaviolet show clearly what the screens look like. Let me know if you have any questions on removing any of the parts for this job and I will describe the job to the best of my abilities.