fairly new to the forums, some pics of my 93 rx-7..
#1
10-09-2009, 06:59 AM
fairly new to the forums, some pics of my 93 rx-7..
just joined 6speed a few months ago since i have been addicted to running 60-130 times. i have a 93 rx-7 with a single turbo setup. i actually build and tune them up here in the northeast. i dont do it as a business just a side thing to keep me busy. my rx-7 makes 481whp and so far i have run a best of 6.74 60-130mph, i need to work on my 3-4 shift better to get the time down some more. anyway here are some shots of my rx.
engine shot.
pic with my old supra.
</p>
throw in a pic of my current supra which is actually for sale to finish my track car. pm me if anyone is intrested.
</p>
i will get some more pics and vids up of my rx-7.
engine shot.
pic with my old supra.
</p>throw in a pic of my current supra which is actually for sale to finish my track car. pm me if anyone is intrested.
</p>i will get some more pics and vids up of my rx-7.
Last edited by smg944; 10-09-2009 at 07:45 AM.
#5
10-09-2009, 07:12 PM
its a rebuilt motor with oem apex seals and rotary avaiation o-rings. the motor is streetported which helps out all around. there is a guy on the rx-7 forums cranking out 710whp out of a completely stock engine with 70k miles. the main thing about rotarys is tuning. they either like to be rich at all times or have high octane fuels. i run c16 full time. i could do meth with 93 octane but i feel more comfortable with having the fuel in there. it has an a-spec gt35r turbo kit, 550/1600 cc injectors, and a power fc ecu.
#6
10-09-2009, 11:10 PM
its a rebuilt motor with oem apex seals and rotary avaiation o-rings. the motor is streetported which helps out all around. there is a guy on the rx-7 forums cranking out 710whp out of a completely stock engine with 70k miles. the main thing about rotarys is tuning. they either like to be rich at all times or have high octane fuels. i run c16 full time. i could do meth with 93 octane but i feel more comfortable with having the fuel in there. it has an a-spec gt35r turbo kit, 550/1600 cc injectors, and a power fc ecu.
Very nice. I was always under the impression that you could not rebuild the motors, or specifically you could not hone/bore the chamber so once it was worn out, you got a new case. I knew a few people who raced RX7's. It was probably cheaper for them to do that. Considering the small displacement of the motor the power is impressive and the fact that the curve is not the typical heavy lag power curve is nice. Very nice.
#7
10-10-2009, 08:51 AM
there are different ways to "blow the engine" on the rotary. i would say the most commonly known is blowing apex seals. if you were to crack/break an apex seal, chances are you would need a rotor and rotor housing. which you dont need to buy new, just must be in spec. so an average rebuild will run $1000-$1500. some people take the option to buy brand new rotor housings which run $600 each. when you start buying all new parts the price will get up to $3000+. but the rotor housings are designed to last 200k miles, so a good used part will go a long way. this is not always the case though, i have rebuilt motors the cracked apex seals and they have no internal damage.
as for adding size to the engine. the way it is designed it must stay at the factory size and can not be increased. you can however change compression ratio's with different rotors.
as for adding size to the engine. the way it is designed it must stay at the factory size and can not be increased. you can however change compression ratio's with different rotors.
Last edited by smg944; 10-10-2009 at 08:53 AM.
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#8
10-10-2009, 11:28 AM
there are different ways to "blow the engine" on the rotary. i would say the most commonly known is blowing apex seals. if you were to crack/break an apex seal, chances are you would need a rotor and rotor housing. which you dont need to buy new, just must be in spec. so an average rebuild will run $1000-$1500. some people take the option to buy brand new rotor housings which run $600 each. when you start buying all new parts the price will get up to $3000+. but the rotor housings are designed to last 200k miles, so a good used part will go a long way. this is not always the case though, i have rebuilt motors the cracked apex seals and they have no internal damage.
as for adding size to the engine. the way it is designed it must stay at the factory size and can not be increased. you can however change compression ratio's with different rotors.
as for adding size to the engine. the way it is designed it must stay at the factory size and can not be increased. you can however change compression ratio's with different rotors.
thanks for the info. good cars for sure. What does yours weigh in at. They can't be that heavy.
#14
10-19-2009, 06:49 PM
The rotary can handle a lot. It gets a bad reputation for people improperly modifying them.
I live in Oklahoma where it is anywhere from 105* to 15*. My car is currently well over 400 hp w/ a 13B, single turbo, haltech, and so forth. Oh and it weighs in less than 2700lbs. Its all about cooling. These motors run warmer than their piston counterparts. Therefore it is crucial to keep them cool. If you don't lean out a turbo rotary, keep it cool (under 220*), and keep oil in it you can run them anywhere. Pretty much good advice for any motor huh? The difference is that the rotary loves RPM's and they are so much smoother than their piston counter part.
If I had my other computer I could put up some photos of the internals and some motor builds. I posted a few photos in another thread. I see if I can find it.
I live in Oklahoma where it is anywhere from 105* to 15*. My car is currently well over 400 hp w/ a 13B, single turbo, haltech, and so forth. Oh and it weighs in less than 2700lbs. Its all about cooling. These motors run warmer than their piston counterparts. Therefore it is crucial to keep them cool. If you don't lean out a turbo rotary, keep it cool (under 220*), and keep oil in it you can run them anywhere. Pretty much good advice for any motor huh? The difference is that the rotary loves RPM's and they are so much smoother than their piston counter part.
If I had my other computer I could put up some photos of the internals and some motor builds. I posted a few photos in another thread. I see if I can find it.
#15
10-19-2009, 06:52 PM