Best platform(car) to stuff a RB26DETT in ?
#18
Thank you for the reply , some good info here . do you have any links that for the companies that make all those things for the swap?
is there any other platform out there that ideal?
so with the RB25 , basicly they swap them in , sinstead of the RB26 becuase , they do not plan on using it for AWD , and since thats the case , its not worth it to spend the extra loot to stuff the RB 26 in there ?
is there any other platform out there that ideal?
so with the RB25 , basicly they swap them in , sinstead of the RB26 becuase , they do not plan on using it for AWD , and since thats the case , its not worth it to spend the extra loot to stuff the RB 26 in there ?
http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/p...260+280Z+parts
I saw an RB26 240Z last weekend. It was a very nice car, and it's been plastered all over the internet, but it's not really my cup o tea ( maybe I'm just jealous! ). I think something is lost in translation. My ideal Z car I want to track in the future would be a 240Z with a hot L28 triple mikuni carb'd.
I've seen RBs in 300ZXs. I think that's a pretty clever swap because the original VG engine is incredibly hard to work on space-wise.
The RB25 is cheaper than the RB26 to swap. Much easier to find and the tranny you would need already comes with the engine. Good luck finding an RB26 newer than late R32, early R33. People opt for the RB26 for the "wow" factor, but it's been done before.
My personal opinion? The S30Z, the 240Z in particular, just can't withstand the power output that would justify an RB26, or even an RB25. Unless you out and out tubed the car, it would be a powertrain looking for a chassis. These cars are getting old and tired.
#21
+1 for 240z.
There are actually plenty of alternatives for doing the swap. Im doing the swap in my 71 240z right now using mckinney motorsport mounts and fabbing the other stuff, like fuel setup, intercooler, and radiator stuff. The shop actually has pretty much everything shop made for the whole swap, but im not ballin enough to afford all that. Lol. I'll try to get some pix up soon.
There are actually plenty of alternatives for doing the swap. Im doing the swap in my 71 240z right now using mckinney motorsport mounts and fabbing the other stuff, like fuel setup, intercooler, and radiator stuff. The shop actually has pretty much everything shop made for the whole swap, but im not ballin enough to afford all that. Lol. I'll try to get some pix up soon.
#24
Put it in a BMW E36 M3, great handling platform.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiPsQ...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiPsQ...eature=related
Last edited by PennywiseG35S; 06-18-2011 at 03:03 PM.
#25
I wouldn't swap it in anything unless you have the budget to do it twice over. The motor has been discontinued for some time now, and there was never dealer support for it in the USA. If cost is going to be a factor in the decision making process, go with a different motor.
As far as fitment, I recommend a chassis that either came with an I6, or has a long nose (datsun/nissan, bmw, mazda, jag).
The FD RX7 chassis is a good example of a long nose chassis that does not fit I6 motors well. The 2JZ swap required a custom hood and the rear of the motor only has about an inch of space between the valve cover and the firewall. The Honda S2000 is an even poorer choice, as the transmission tunnel needs to be beat out.
If you are serious about doing a swap like this, go with a chassis that has a lot of support, has been swapped before, and a reliable motor. Otherwise just open your wallet.
As far as fitment, I recommend a chassis that either came with an I6, or has a long nose (datsun/nissan, bmw, mazda, jag).
The FD RX7 chassis is a good example of a long nose chassis that does not fit I6 motors well. The 2JZ swap required a custom hood and the rear of the motor only has about an inch of space between the valve cover and the firewall. The Honda S2000 is an even poorer choice, as the transmission tunnel needs to be beat out.
If you are serious about doing a swap like this, go with a chassis that has a lot of support, has been swapped before, and a reliable motor. Otherwise just open your wallet.
#26
The RB26 and 2JZ engine are only useful in the chassis' they were originally designed for. The heavy iron block simply deters handling capabilities of swapped chassis. (e.g. Nissan 240). Unless you are only building the car for big power and straight line racing, this swap is not for you.
Although I am bias to Japanese cars, I would advise you, if you are dead set on doing a swap, to go with an GM LS motor. The all aluminum design will save you close to 200 pounds over the iron block, you be able to make all the power you are looking for and your handling characteristics will stay in check. Also, I believe that the LS motors are able to sit lower in the engine bay, enabling a lower center of gravity in the front of your car.
Although I am bias to Japanese cars, I would advise you, if you are dead set on doing a swap, to go with an GM LS motor. The all aluminum design will save you close to 200 pounds over the iron block, you be able to make all the power you are looking for and your handling characteristics will stay in check. Also, I believe that the LS motors are able to sit lower in the engine bay, enabling a lower center of gravity in the front of your car.
#29
The RB26 and 2JZ engine are only useful in the chassis' they were originally designed for. The heavy iron block simply deters handling capabilities of swapped chassis. (e.g. Nissan 240). Unless you are only building the car for big power and straight line racing, this swap is not for you.
Although I am bias to Japanese cars, I would advise you, if you are dead set on doing a swap, to go with an GM LS motor. The all aluminum design will save you close to 200 pounds over the iron block, you be able to make all the power you are looking for and your handling characteristics will stay in check. Also, I believe that the LS motors are able to sit lower in the engine bay, enabling a lower center of gravity in the front of your car.
Although I am bias to Japanese cars, I would advise you, if you are dead set on doing a swap, to go with an GM LS motor. The all aluminum design will save you close to 200 pounds over the iron block, you be able to make all the power you are looking for and your handling characteristics will stay in check. Also, I believe that the LS motors are able to sit lower in the engine bay, enabling a lower center of gravity in the front of your car.
Nothing. The problem is the engine in question was never offered in the US, has no dealer support, and typical dealer support usually lasts 10 years for a part...it has been 10 years since that motor was sold in Japan. Make sense?
#30
The best RB swap I've ever seen was in a Miata