Project: "Last RX-7" by Herblenny
#151
Well, Just found out the issue is out on Modified Magazine!!
And who's on the cover??
Hope some of you will pick up this copy...
Thank you all for reading this build thread and I will continue to update..
Here is a photo I've taken that I haven't shared until now from the shoot..
And who's on the cover??
Hope some of you will pick up this copy...
Thank you all for reading this build thread and I will continue to update..
Here is a photo I've taken that I haven't shared until now from the shoot..
#152
I'm still waiting on parts to finish the build.. Unfortunately.. But should make 700-800 WHP. The twin Walbro E85 (can be upgraded to 3) plus 9 x ID1000s (and later going to 6 x ID 2000s and 3 x ID 1000s) I should have enough fuel to do 700+. The Turbonetic GT-K 1050 is good for 1000+. Car should weigh in around 2600-2700lbs.
#155
My current MB (blk dipped), I have owned it for over 10 years and previous owner had the engine rebuilt 3 years prior.. Still runs strong after many many hard drives.
3 rotor, my concern will be heat... And its more of an experimental car so I can't say much. I will monitor and fix things as we go and that's the approach I took from start. So, I can not tell you the reliability factor as many things on it will be first.
#156
I can't say much about your friend but with my experience I have yet to loose and engine due to apex seals (10+... close to 15 years of owning FDs). But like anything else, if you are experimenting, you have to expect something bad will happen. Unlike Piston engines, there are very few support in major cities in USA. I say less than 10% support for piston engines. Most of the time its self learn thing.
My current MB (blk dipped), I have owned it for over 10 years and previous owner had the engine rebuilt 3 years prior.. Still runs strong after many many hard drives.
3 rotor, my concern will be heat... And its more of an experimental car so I can't say much. I will monitor and fix things as we go and that's the approach I took from start. So, I can not tell you the reliability factor as many things on it will be first.
My current MB (blk dipped), I have owned it for over 10 years and previous owner had the engine rebuilt 3 years prior.. Still runs strong after many many hard drives.
3 rotor, my concern will be heat... And its more of an experimental car so I can't say much. I will monitor and fix things as we go and that's the approach I took from start. So, I can not tell you the reliability factor as many things on it will be first.
#157
Update!
Since the magazine is out and I finally got it in my mail box, I'll post some photos from the shoot.
Here are my iPhone photos that I posted on instagram..
Getting ready to shoot inside and engine bay.
Normally you don't see the rear end
One of my favorite shot I took..
And the cover photo Modified is using on their Facebook page..
Since the magazine is out and I finally got it in my mail box, I'll post some photos from the shoot.
Here are my iPhone photos that I posted on instagram..
Getting ready to shoot inside and engine bay.
Normally you don't see the rear end
One of my favorite shot I took..
And the cover photo Modified is using on their Facebook page..
#161
I'm still waiting on parts to finish the build.. Unfortunately.. But should make 700-800 WHP. The twin Walbro E85 (can be upgraded to 3) plus 9 x ID1000s (and later going to 6 x ID 2000s and 3 x ID 1000s) I should have enough fuel to do 700+. The Turbonetic GT-K 1050 is good for 1000+. Car should weigh in around 2600-2700lbs.
nice now i want to build one of these!
hows the power come on currently what rpm? and low end torque good with the 3 rotor motor? or does it still act two stroke like doesn't wake up till the turbo spools?
#164
Update..
Well, having the plasti dip in black for couple of months, I decided to lay another color to see how the stuff lays after first 3 coats of black and waiting 2 months.
Did it a week before Import Alliance (IA) in Nashville, TN and one of the organizer of IA gave me a good spot to display the car. Here are some photos from the event.
and from recent cars and coffee.
Well, having the plasti dip in black for couple of months, I decided to lay another color to see how the stuff lays after first 3 coats of black and waiting 2 months.
Did it a week before Import Alliance (IA) in Nashville, TN and one of the organizer of IA gave me a good spot to display the car. Here are some photos from the event.
and from recent cars and coffee.
#165
Update... Long over due..
To Start, my cover feature came out on Modified Mag.. Nov 2013 issue. Which is now online: 1993 Mazda RX-7 - Built In Bama - Modified Magazine
Some photos from the shoot.
Also just before the Holidays, My plastidipped MB/satin blk FD was featured in Stance Nation. Photos from Stance Nation:
Sinister Rotary // Phil’s Mazda RX7. | StanceNation
^^is Plasti Dipped (www.DipYourCar.com)
Below is a comparision satin painted the FD from 5-6 years ago (My 1st Black FD where this thread was started).
My opinion about Plasti Dip:
I been getting a lot of questions from people.. So I will state some pros and cons compared with my experience with satin paint, 3M vinyl, and plasti dip.
Satin Paint is by far most expensive and super hard to keep it nice. it chips easy and once chipped, that's it. You can't buff, wax, etc.
Vinyl, the theory is nice. but quite expensive if you hire someone to do. I did couple of test run on my MB FD and also my daily TL when 3M first introduced their 'car' vinyl. it was fairly easy to do and held up well. Until, I decided to pull it off. TL, vinyl came off easy and without any issues. However, my repainted/aftermarket painted FD3S? vinyl took my paint off. Apparently this is a VERY common issues with non-OE paint. Of course 3M did not disclosed this nor would they do anything about it since I installed it myself.
Plasti Dip (purchased from www.DipYourCar.com) is by far best, easiest, and cheapest solution. I heard about this 2-3 years ago. Been watching videos and about a year ago, decided to give it a try (for DGRR). I mainly wanted to use this stuff to protect my MB paint (costly paint job) while I drove around town and DGRR. Bought 4 cans from Lowes, experimented on my lower part of FEED flares (where rock chips were common). One side of the car was vinyl and otherside was plasti dipped. Most people for 6 months had no idea one side was dipped and other side was vinyl.
I also used my daily as test subject and plasti dipped the front grill and few other areas to see how well it will hold up since it was parked outside and saw more environmental elements. 6 months, I had no issues on either cars. Cleaned up easily and peeled off without an issue.
I than talked to guys at DipYourCar.com and decided to get their full car kit (under $400 with the sprayer). The satin black FD you see here is 3-4 layers of their black. I did the entire work in 1 day and drove in the rain about an hour after spraying. I also did 2 track days with this and performed great!! I had very little chips, clean up was easy (just water and microfiber towel, in 15 mins), and than I layed 3-4 more dip after running it for 2-3 months (still using the left over from the kit).
With the new color, I have about 6-8 coats of this stuff. I've put over 1000 miles, another day at the track, and the plasti dip is still in great condition. All, under $400.
I'm going to do one more layer in different color before peeling this stuff off. I'll post a results of 1 year of dip later this spring.
To Start, my cover feature came out on Modified Mag.. Nov 2013 issue. Which is now online: 1993 Mazda RX-7 - Built In Bama - Modified Magazine
Some photos from the shoot.
Also just before the Holidays, My plastidipped MB/satin blk FD was featured in Stance Nation. Photos from Stance Nation:
Sinister Rotary // Phil’s Mazda RX7. | StanceNation
^^is Plasti Dipped (www.DipYourCar.com)
Below is a comparision satin painted the FD from 5-6 years ago (My 1st Black FD where this thread was started).
My opinion about Plasti Dip:
I been getting a lot of questions from people.. So I will state some pros and cons compared with my experience with satin paint, 3M vinyl, and plasti dip.
Satin Paint is by far most expensive and super hard to keep it nice. it chips easy and once chipped, that's it. You can't buff, wax, etc.
Vinyl, the theory is nice. but quite expensive if you hire someone to do. I did couple of test run on my MB FD and also my daily TL when 3M first introduced their 'car' vinyl. it was fairly easy to do and held up well. Until, I decided to pull it off. TL, vinyl came off easy and without any issues. However, my repainted/aftermarket painted FD3S? vinyl took my paint off. Apparently this is a VERY common issues with non-OE paint. Of course 3M did not disclosed this nor would they do anything about it since I installed it myself.
Plasti Dip (purchased from www.DipYourCar.com) is by far best, easiest, and cheapest solution. I heard about this 2-3 years ago. Been watching videos and about a year ago, decided to give it a try (for DGRR). I mainly wanted to use this stuff to protect my MB paint (costly paint job) while I drove around town and DGRR. Bought 4 cans from Lowes, experimented on my lower part of FEED flares (where rock chips were common). One side of the car was vinyl and otherside was plasti dipped. Most people for 6 months had no idea one side was dipped and other side was vinyl.
I also used my daily as test subject and plasti dipped the front grill and few other areas to see how well it will hold up since it was parked outside and saw more environmental elements. 6 months, I had no issues on either cars. Cleaned up easily and peeled off without an issue.
I than talked to guys at DipYourCar.com and decided to get their full car kit (under $400 with the sprayer). The satin black FD you see here is 3-4 layers of their black. I did the entire work in 1 day and drove in the rain about an hour after spraying. I also did 2 track days with this and performed great!! I had very little chips, clean up was easy (just water and microfiber towel, in 15 mins), and than I layed 3-4 more dip after running it for 2-3 months (still using the left over from the kit).
With the new color, I have about 6-8 coats of this stuff. I've put over 1000 miles, another day at the track, and the plasti dip is still in great condition. All, under $400.
I'm going to do one more layer in different color before peeling this stuff off. I'll post a results of 1 year of dip later this spring.