take a look at my issue

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-progress.html

 

Great info thanks! We were just wondering if anyone had done that to test the bag and whether or not it would hurt it. Planning to use pressure regulator. Any idea what kind of pressure we can use without damaging the bag?

Also, we lifted the front corners of the car to be relatively the same level but with tires still on the ground (actually on 2x4s so we could get lift legs under the car). Started car and all of the errors on the display went away and were able to turn control on and off and PASM showed raising car (though it actually wasn't ). This is kind of a big deal, tells me that ECU probably OK. Also tells me that most of the errors displayed and mischief going on with random messages while the strut is collapsed is driven by the level sensors. being all the way down Another confirmation that level sensors are OK and I think narrows down to pump not being able to provide enough air to accumulator OR strut has major leak. I think we can narrow that down tomorrow by putting air in the bag or as an alternative pull a vacuum on the bag and see if it holds.

 

Jack up one side, tire slightly off ground, inflate strut with a standard small compressor for a couple seconds. Bag will inflate, put finger on top of air inlet or attach hose quickly and look and listen for the leak

 

Looking at your post, does the internal strut just stab into the air bag and the two clips hold it in place? I assume there is an O ring in there somewhere that seals the air bag assembly to the strut to keep air in. Was yours not seated properly or was the air bag itself bad? i think I saw Kumar's post he just did not seat the strut in the clips all the way thinking that the weight of he car would seat it and clips would snap over. Sounds like a pretty simple fix if so and might be easier than trying to get Porsche to make good on the warranty. They just seem to want to keep throwing new parts at the system until everything but the part they rebuilt has been replaced.

 

What you described is exactly what happened, once the clips were properly seated, the weight of the car does the rest. The rebuilding of strut is about $100 in parts, maybe less. New O rings, fittings, boots. Reassembly is where the faults come into play. Almost positive that is the problem you are having

 

Quick update. Put air in the strut, lifted car a bit and put thumb over the valve. Car didn't sink and could not hear anything leaking out. So then we put a gauge on the line to the front left and turned system on. Confirmed we got air to the line so valve block functioning. Hypothesis now that strut is OK but compressor not generating enough pressure to lift car and so when compressor runs front corner does not lift computer shuts the compressor off and gives chassis failure light. Should have replacement pump today to verify this. Will post update when we know more.

 

also do the relay while your at it, should solve your problem

 

Best of luck with RMT I had nothing but terrible customer service and issues with my struts from them after the sale. Had to send back twice and car was off the road for almost a month

 

Ok put rebuilt RMT compressor in, ran fine longer in fact than the old, but still no joy. Appears we have more pressure in accumu;amor as we had to reattach the in?out line to the accumulator and had quite a bit of air in it. Not 270PSI but maybe 70ish. Perhaps OI need now to just keep recycling the key to get the pump to come on for a bit and pressure accumulator. No leaks at the valve block, accumulator, pump, or on top of strut or on side that can be seen through the wheel (have fender skirt off). Going to see if we can rig up a schrader valve using one of the old compressor fittings directly to in/out port on the compressor and see if we can get the strut to air up. I have to believe it is a pressure problem. Too bad there is not a schrader valve on the accumulator one could service with air and periodically drain tank.

 

Are you using a diagnostic tool to reset settings after replacing these parts? Almost to the point that ECU is not getting a read from suspension relay

 

Regulate compressed air not to shoot 250psi for too long. Low pressure for a second and block with finger to see if shock keeps air or get rubber grommet to plug.
I did with my shocks before install. Gentle.

If you installed new compressor, assuming that's all that was wrong, it will take several cycles to air up suspension.
Make sure you clear out errors using your dials tool.
Do it once while car is on, and once while off in acc mode.
Compressor only airs u air tank (aka accumulator).
Ecu tells valves to open or close to put or remove air from shocks.
Compressor runs less than 1 mon at a time to prevent thermal overload.
Let us know what you find out.

 

Oaky this AM we decided we needed to spend more time on the 4 week old rebuilt airbag since it is collapsed. We have put air directly into the bag using just a basic air blow gun with the pointed rubber tip. Pressure in our system is only 140 pounds and only so much pressure will actually build (maybe 100 lbs??) because of course the rubber nipple of the air gun does not make a perfect fit. However in so doing have been able to get car to rise an inch or so then I put a finger over the port and the car stays. On releasing my finger quite a bit of air comes back and of course the car lowers. Have also squirted soapy water on the airbag and up under the plastic bellows that covers the strut/airbag interface while putting air to it. No leaks noted. We also checked to see that the two black plastic tabs on the bottom of the airbag were properly seated on the flange on the strut. Discovered that one is seated fine, on the other the tab is broken off. So does that tab simply locate the air bag on the strut to insure that the O ring is seated properly or does it actually hold it together. In either event we could not hear or see any signs of an air leak. I would think that maybe we are not able to build enough air pressure with the air gun to make it leak but that doesn't make sense because we can manually raise the car with the air gun.

One interesting occurrence. Lifted the car just high enough to make all corners level but tires still on the ground. Fired it up, compressor ran. Once the compressor stopped we lowered the car to put all of the weight of the car on the suspension. Front left corner was actually up some. i am thinking great, just a few more cycles and perhaps we are in business. About that time the front left lowered all by itself and we could not hear an audible sound from the airbag. ECU perhaps?? Why would it command the vehicle to lower?

Will hook the Modis up and clear the codes.

To Review,

With the pressure line off the air bag port on the collapsed sturt we determined that the computer is sending air to that corner because air came through the line when we turned it on. We pulled a light vacuum on the pressure line as well and it held which would indicate that the line itself is not leaking.

When we hook the Modis up yesterday after cycling several times, it only shows about 70PSI in the system and says pressure low. Have checked for leaks at all fittings on pump, valve block and accumulator. Cannot find any. So also acting like the Accumulator is not building pressure for some reason. I am going to check the pressure again today when I clear the codes.

Finally, when the car is level using the lift the On/Off Control for the system works. However when the front left is completely down that control does not function.

 

Quick follow up. Through this entire ordeal the front left has been only corner down. We let the air out of right front and allowed to lower. Reattached air line and on the first cycle the front right came up a bit. Will let the compressor sit and will recycle. Because we still can't hear or see a leak in the front left we are contemplating removing the pressure lines to the front air bags back at the valve block and swapping to see if either of the sides will come up. We figure that if left front strut is leaking then it should stay down and right front should reinflate. If new valve block is bad then either the left front will inflate or neither will if the level sensors see the "wrong side" inflating and somehow stop it.

 

There's an adapter set part #:. 000 721 982 50 to add air. It's not clear how they are attached but if it helps you any that's the special tool, Number 9825.

 

best price on that tool seems to be Sonnen https://www.sonnenporscheoemparts.co...et-00072198250
$48
Looks to be a schrader valve adapter
but not idea how to use it, manual I have doesn't mention it at all