I am honored to be quoted this extensively.

 

Add another air suspension issue;

Mine stopped working with the rear stuck in the 'off-road' position height with the front stuck in the "sport plus" position height - getting 'extreme angle' errors on the dash.
Been like that for two months now and it doesn't deflate completely. I can still drive it to get my groceries and dread going to the dealer to be handed over a 10,000$ bill to fix this and I keep putting it off.

This whole thing broke the day after I went through a car wash in winter. I originally thought water froze the height sensors or something (I park outside). But when the warmer temperatures came and snow was melting, my air suspension didn't magically start working

At first I though the control unit died as per @ciaka's guide because nothing happens when pressing the buttons, it's not slammed and the compressor doesn't kick in.
But I got myself an icarsoft and I'm able to read the suspension data. It goes into it's venting/inflating/all closed phase when starting the car and it does see the height sensor data (-15mm front and +60mm rear) which to me could imply the actual control unit is fine if it can read all this data and tries to execute the venting/inflating initialization when you start the car.
Would the compressor be bad? But then it should still be able to at least vent the rear to lower it I think so it's not that.
Valve block? All my 4 corners are stuck as per @ciaka's guide but it doesn't mention if the compressor is supposed to turn on if the valve is failed.

 

i had to replace both front air shocks because one was leaking. The most expensive item is the air shock. Everything else $$ is manageable.

Find a reputable independent Porsche shop and fix it.

 

Just eyeballing this, sounds like your valve block stopped working fine. Valve block controls each corner venting and usually is the issue if car stuck in high modes. Valves don't open right or too slow. And ecu disables the block, knowing something is wrong.
I would start there. You can do this yourself. Easy and I showed how. If that does not resolve, next questio. 8s does the system have compression and it is leaking.
once u replace block, if car does not inflate back, you will have the answer for your compressor. If you noticed your shocks sagging but still being inflated. Means you have leak in system, means compressor was working harder to keep inflated, means could have worn out. Piwis2 would tell more info in diags. Hope this helps.

 

Just eyeballing this, sounds like your valve block stopped working fine. Valve block controls each corner venting and usually is the issue if car stuck in high modes. Valves don't open right or too slow. And ecu disables the block, knowing something is wrong.
I would start there. You can do this yourself. Easy and I showed how. If that does not resolve, next questio. 8s does the system have compression and it is leaking.
once u replace block, if car does not inflate back, you will have the answer for your compressor. If you noticed your shocks sagging but still being inflated. Means you have leak in system, means compressor was working harder to keep inflated, means could have worn out. Piwis2 would tell more info in diags. Hope this helps.

 

Just a quick update that I have taken it to the dealer. Their diagnosis was that the compressor failed, and I now need to wait 6 more weeks for a new one from Germany.

I'm surprised that it's the compressor as to me it makes no sense why I would need a compressor to _deflate_ the rear. Just guessing but maybe the system does some electrical check and if even one part doesn't work it disables the whole thing. Hopefully they don't install the new compressor only to then tell me the valve block needs to be changed as well (with another 8 weeks delivery wait) Fingers crossed the PIWIS diagnosis was accurate.

I'll update again when I get the car back.

 

Got my car back!

So, the way I read this is that either it was just a bad fuse, and they replaced the compressor uselessly, or, the compressor really died, and tripped it's fuse.

Note to self; next time buy a fuse tester and test all fuses before taking the car to the garage

 

Don't feel too bad. Fuses burn out usually from some fault/failure...

 

Bad compressor usually takes out relay with it. Good idea to replace e both.
as to fuse, I haven't heard of compressor breaking fuse.
If fuse is out,, compressor does not work,, therefore tests cannot be run from piwis2.
So answer is, replacement needed or not. Depends of how much you trust that mechanic.

Plenty stories of mechanics not checking fuses. Replacing component, then fuse, then determining component needed replacement. Maybe you can ask to have old compressor given to you. Then you see if it turns on when voltage applied.

 

As always, this is information is very helpful! Now here's my situation:

This morning car was slammed in the front. As soon as i started the car, compressor kicked on (usually it comes on as you lock/unlock the car but it hasn't done it yet today) and vehicle raised. The "vehicle too low" message appeared and then promptly disappeared. I was screwing around with the comfort and sport plus ride height and noticed sometimes it would very slowly lower or raise, and other times like normal, however it will not let me raise the car to the "high" mode, i get a message saying "not permissible." I plugged in my icarsoft scanner and the only code I get is compressor too hot. We have had a heat wave over the last week on the East Coast, so that is probably not helping.

Is it likely a leak and compressor combo? The only reason I would think it is solely the compressor is because the car immediately pops up and the sporadic ability to lift and lower. Is it worth pulling the battery tonight to affirmatively clear the code and see what happens?

 

Car slammed: leak in air suspension system. Find it. Leaks ruin valve blocks, and compressors.

Compressor kicks in, because pressure in aur tank under bumper, is too low...leak in system.

Error says compressor too hot: your compressor shuts down due to thermal trip protection. Very little air in tank.

not permissable: means too little air in suspension, wo t raise car.
You playing with sports button while you do this pd does not help. All you do is help air leak out more. Leading to more errors.

Clear codes. Leave suspension in one mode foe now, normal.
Check for leaks.
Pd to see if you have calve block errors.
The error on compressor is bad thing. Means it ram very hot.
with this, suspect relay as well.
Fix leaks, drive, pull codes.
Codes in piwis2 will tell you where issue is.
Hope this helps some..

 

Find something/someone to read the codes. They are very accurate. Then repair accordingly. No guessing and throwing parts at it.

 

Awesome, will do some more digging. Question for @ciaka if the valve block is faulty electrically, is a good way to diag unplugging the battery overnight and seeing if that makes a difference?

 

Would an icarsoft scanner pickup the codes? or only PWIS? iCarsoft allows me to go into each module, look at the data (pressures, voltage, etc). The only code within the level module is the compressor being too hot.

 

I have a Foxwell and PIWIS clone. I would think iCarsoft should read (all) the codes.

How is it now? Since you manipulated the suspension it probably did overheat. How long did it sit before it slammed down?