I've only gotten the same 2 codes each time the CEL gets triggered; both P0068 codes. I didn't notice any exhaust smoke.

 

That’s strange. P0068, only, each time? (You mention two for each CEL but note only P0068). My P0068 was accompanied by P1075, very helpful in YouTubing possible causes once I saw that it was implausibly low.

Searching AOS issues I saw where crankcase pressure became high and removing the oil filler cap during idle would cause an interesting popping type sound. There are also notes on nasty exhaust fumes, although I’m not sure in all cases the exhaust fumes would develop.

May I ask which code reader you are using? I bought a FoxWell NT644Pro last June or July to work on resetting the oil change interval on a non-driven Mercedes. It’s universal, but so far so good...

 

I've gotten a check engine light with these two particular codes in the DME at least twice more now. The first of these two I was able to tighten down one of the four intake clamps with a small flat head, which did not provide enough leverage. The second time I waited until morning/engine cool, and was able to tighten it some more with a more appropriately sized/larger flat head. Cleared the codes and hopefully will not return. If you get both codes simultaneously definitely take a tool, hex socket or flat head, to those four clamps on the intake....

 

Spoke too soon. The clamps seem snug but still getting the check engine light. (Maybe it's time to replace the air filter)? Totally bummed!!!!

 

might be a stupid question, but did you clean your MAF sensor yet? If not, i would recomend that. You can get it at your local auto parts store. The sensor is on the plastic pipe by the throttle body, held in by one T-30 torx screw...

 

Thank you! No, I’m afraid I was focused on loose couplings because that’s what seemed to be the cause when the issue first started. Is it worth the effort to try to clean them, or better just to replace it?

 

Stop by autozone, and go to the CRC red bottle section... Pick up the Mass air flow sensor spray cleaner...$9... With yur mileage, i think its just a lil fouled up. Have you seen your air intake filter yet?

 

Thank you again.

Went by last night and got some MAF cleaner (silver spray can). Got stuck trying to figure out how to remove hose clamp on front of it. Gonna try T-27 or T-25 because T-30 didn't fit I'm afraid.

Have not seen the air filter, have to remove bumper I've read! Then it will be interesting to see if there are one or three I guess...

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Clamp squeeze and pull off. Two T-20 bolts off. (Of course I go and immediately lose one). Difficult to pry off, two o-rings hold it in.

There's oil in there! Now what!!!

Thanks for all the help.

 

If theres oil in there, then you have a high chance that the oil was foiling up the sensor, hence the cleaning... Seeing oil in there means you have a failed Air oil seperator unit(assuming connections on vacuum tubing is good).

 

Thank you.

I used the cleaner to clean up the MAP. I used 91% Isopropanol on a blue paper towel to clean up the intake manifold port and end of tube that the goes to the Oil Separator. Cleared the codes, warmed up engine in driveway a long time before driving off. Drove maybe 8 miles including idling in front of my son's school pick up line for maybe 30 minutes. No more check engine light, whereas before it would come on on every drive after clearing the codes.

Am I out of the woods for now?

(Thanks again for the pointers)!

 

if you haven't changed the Air Oil separator it will come back

 

Thats great! Glad to hear it worked out for ya! You are "out of the woods" however, you need to stop by the "nearest place of civilization" and take care of the remaining problem at hand, which is the Air oil seperator. I highly recommend you do this ASAP as it is probably one of the most important components to your engine. If you continue to drive it like it is, you'll probably get a code within 7-10 days, as oil is reintroduced back into the intake manifold again. Prolonging this condition causes other REALLY pricey issues such as leaking spark plug seals(which lead to failed coil packs), failed valve cover gaskets, and pretty much any engine block seal. This is due to the constant increased crankcase pressure resulting in the seals having to give way... eventually and that costs a lot, lol. The Air oil Seperator is one of the easiest DIY items that you can do.... also, dont forget to do a throttle reset..

 

Thank you both!

Yes, second drive check engine light came right back! I haven't checked the codes yet but I would not be surprised to see the same codes. I tried to find one at FCP Euro but they don't seem to have it, (neither AutoZone, which had the MAP but over double the price of FCP). Maybe I'll call DTLA Motors the parts guy seems to like me because I shared the over rotated mirror solution....

 

you'll most likely get a misfire code or leaking vacuum code... Check out AutohausAZ.. I used them a lot since their site is always accurate with their stock and shipping times. and the prices are usually the lower than most places... https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/130066...SABEgJWePD_BwE

Also, a temporary fix is to pop off the cap off of the Air oil seperator from the tabs to get access to the diaghram... Check for tears or holes, even the slightest small one... If the hole is small enough, us eletrical tape(after cleaning off oil) as a temporary bandage so that the codes dont pop up while you wait for the part to come.