I do have the FSM and it has detailed info on the removal. Just quit after my relative cracked the coolant vent line while 'trying' to help.
I will play with it today and am confident that i will get it out. My main concern was validation that the starter is most likely culprit, my other pd was documented above.and in the thread car wont start.
Feel confident that is it, but want to go check out the two ground straps under car once it is put together. Will try to measure conductivity between ends of strap to see how much resistance it measures.
Some chimed in with their info. I may just buy new ones too in case.

We will see, thank you for all your info too.

 

I gotta catch up with all the answers.... Relay and fuse for starter looks to be on the interior driver side side dash Fuse/relay blocks. I need to make a correction on my previous answer to you regarding which side to angle.... I actually meant the opposite.... the silver side facing the transmission gears will go up, while the black solenoid side will drop down towards the pistons and you lift up.

 

FSM I sent out to you been helpful for this at all Ciaka?

 

Thanks for the FSM . Appreciate it. I was using as cross reference to an FSM I already have from PIWIS2.
There were some discrepancies, that is why I always like to have multiple sources. Thank you again.

 

I just re-read this thread...

Just to clarify, AutoZone was able to help you get your car started with a 1000 CCA battery jumpered to your car? Then when you went home, it no longer started? Uh, did you replace the battery? Sounds like it's dead. Don't fry your new starter with a bad battery...

 

when autozone boosted my car, it was couple weeks ago. Car was not starting. Eventually it started.
Went to test battery and it came out to be just fine.
Couple weeks later, I came home and car would not start.
I since put in brand new battery to try start and could not start either.
Returned that batt since it is not the problem. Starter is.

Thanks for checking in on it though.

 

I have not had much time on the car, but managed to take out starter and put new one in. Car still gutted. Still have to replace the line relative 'helped' me out with.
Then put engine back together, but IMO thats the smooth sailing part. I saw the vent line between banks, at place where it joins another line behind intake at a t-junction was touched by someone and plugged with gasket maker material. Looks like had a leak. I will be using jb weld plastic to fix more permanently. Would explain a 'small leak detected' error once in a while.
I will update when I get more time on car, maybe this weekend. Thanks.
Looking good, taking good pics for DIY on starter and intake removal. Easy.

 

Hows the carbon build up on the intake look?

 

Looked at it and there was hardly any. I was really surprised. Just a smidgeon around the edge but minimal. Most of throttle body nice shiny metal.

 

Got a chance to play with the car today for about an hour.
Found out why once in a while I was getting a 'very small vacuum leak detected' showed up on errors that I cleared sometimes.
The vent line between two valve cover banks, has a smaller line behind, which connects to a T junction behind the intake. Well, as I was taking things apart, noticed the previous owner (or in this case his mechanic), must have cracked the pipe and instead of replacing, used a gasket maker to put around the crack, making a temp fix. With me taking intake out, noticed the pipe flimsy, and on closer inspection today, saw the temp fix.
While trying to separate the t junction, I ended up cracking it (very brittle due to heat/age).
So now, I have the vent line (larger one between banks, which is Ok), and the smaller, hard pipe going from middle of the large vent line into the T junction.

As I have it now, I have to replace the T junction, plus the smaller hard pipe going into the large vent line.
My thinking it, maybe I can buy a T connector from autozone, etc, fit it in place of the light colored t connector behind intake (see pic, the white, cracked connector), and buy a flexible line that will fit onto the T connector I installed, and then onto the connection on the large vent line. I would have to gently remove the hard plastic line from the vent line connection without damaging the connection (should be doable with dremel, etc).
Once that is off, I was thinking buy flex hi heat hose matching diamater, so I can fit onto the T connector and onto vent line connection (maybe use clamps, maybe not).
Ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Below you can see the pics of the area, the large vent line between banks, the small line leading from middle of vent line, and the T connector (whitish), that I cracked.

Thank you in advance.

 

Found a good solution for the t connector replacement. Cost me about 15 bucks total and will be perfect. This broken t connector with gasket maker around it explains why I sometime saw a 'very small leak detected' error in the car. Now, with a good fix, I bet the error wont come back.. I will post details about this issue and fix in a bix and in separate thread.

As to the car, it is about 80% done. Replaced starter, replaced the coolant vent line, repaired the vent t connector and associated lines, now about to put the fuel tree back in, the intake and connect hoses. Almost there. Then will lift car to check the ground straps under car. Last time looked did not see anything but will re check again, then will connect battery.
Almost there. Good thing I still love driving my CTT.

 

If you took any photos of the intake valve inlets with the manifold removed would love a look.

I am thinking of removing the throttle body and using a long flexible snake USB camera to take a look at mine without removing manifold. (This is a winter project).

Thanks,

 

Great Job Ciaka! I would have done the same exact thing! Also, While you had your intake manifold off, how were the carbon build up in the valves?

 

https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/...11591435026475

 

Thanks for the link, I used it about a year ago to do water pipe seal refresh on my cayenne turbo. Noticed leaking and pressurized system. The two rear t connectors were cracking.
Talk about a PITA job. Nothing on the PTT was as involved as that on the CTT (yet).
I bought a 3 dollar part from NAPA plus hosing and clamps to put together a good solution. Skipping the 160+79 bucks for replacement piping.