Hello, it is nice work! A side question, what kind of symptoms did you have with the bad starter? Thanks!

 

From what I remember trouble starting, especially when it fails to start on first try, would not hear car try to start, only solenoid clicking. Tested battery that was fine do deduction to starter. And it was.

 

thanks a lot for telling your diagnosis process. In my case I couldn't press the brake pedal down and there was no reaction when turning the key. After 3-4 minutes, the brake pedal got loose so it managed to start. Do you think the culprit would be the brake change which the dealer did a couple weeks ago?

 

Hard to imagine pedal act as you describe. Nothing there, but a spring, and digital sensor for press of pedal. So if you cannot press, it appears some physical obstacle. No cables in area.
Maybe if dealer did brake flush, they made the floor mat so it was somehow obstructing. Only thing I can think of.

 

Brake is mechanical not electrical no?

 

Sorry, I got mixed up. You started talking pedal and I started thinking throttle (my lead foot syndrome).
yes, so your brake was stuck? That is even more weird. If they did brakes, and bled them, it is possible the brake pedal felt really weird initially, depending on what they did after bleeding.
I cannot imagine a scenario where the brake pedal would be stuck and not depress. Regardless of what state it is in, there is play in the pedal, unless something physical prevents it from depress.
It will be really hard to know why this acted like you describe, unless you investigated right then and there. Just keep eye on it for a while for any weird behavior. If does not come back after week or two, I say just something weird that is gone now.

 

@ciaka Thank you for the detailed thread (and your other how-to). I had a no-crank condition on my new-to-me 2012 Turbo (83k miles), and it really helped when replacing the starter. Unfortunately, after a weekend of wrenching, the starter was fine - Turns out it was a bad ground strap from the alternator to the chassis. It looked intact, but flexing it caused it to disintegrate in my hand! Replaced that last night with some 6ga cable I found in the garage, soldered on copper lugs, and heat shrunk. Waiting for the 2/0 to arrive from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-...able-with-ends (M8 and M10 lugs, 13" length). Figured an adhesive sealed marine grade cable will last way longer than the open braid Porsche cable...

Good news is I took the time to walnut blast the intake ports and valves. Man, that's tedious and messy. I need to 3D print a vacuum adapter and put an extension on the blaster. Bonded thermostat pipes looked fine - no evidence of seeping and were tight. Will replace those at some point down the road...

FCP Euro generic intake manifold gaskets were much thicker (.337" vs .277" for OEM), so I re-used the originals...



Bad ground strap from alternator to chassis, disintegrated when I flexed it.

Walnut blasting intake ports