|
Originally Posted by NormalFellow
(Post 4814835)
Murci, Man, I am so glad you had some faith and bit the bullet to do it. Great job man, and I greatly appreciate you confirming my findings... What you experienced is exactly what I experienced as well, to the T. I'd definitely add this in with my routing maintenance before each oil change to keep the valves and intake ports gunk free... Just wait till the end of the upcoming week.. The more you drive it, the better it gets.
Also, you are spot on with the "induction" sound being louder... Every car that ive done this too, you can hear a noticable difference in exhaust tone.... You can definitely tell there is a significantly more air volume coming in... My butt dyno says this treatment prolly gives you(or get back) +10HP, what do you think? hahaha Looking forward to doing Alex's recommendation of motul 0-40 and ceratec next to quiet the engine down a bit (as my panni really doesn't burn oil) ! |
Looks like it is normal for the throttle body not to be open at this rpm. I looked at other cars too and same thing. The throttle body stays closed, so you spray the cleaner at lower edge of the valve, and you will see the cleaner disappear under there. Short bursting until all liquid is gone out of the bottle.
I found it much easier to bend the straw in two places. ONE: About 2 inches from spray end of straw, bend up to about 90 degrees. TWO: About one inch from the edge of straw going into can. Bend down about 90 degrees. You will result in having a straw that will point at the crack between throttle body valve and the TB casing. The other bend will make sure the can is pretty much upright. For those who do not do mechanical stuff often, align dimples of lock pins on throttle body, with the fat parts of their channels (see my starter removal thread for pics). Once dimples alighed, you can use flat screwdriver to gently push pins up to remove. Then grab with both hands, and while you rotate side to side, you pull towards front of car. The TB will separate from intake (you will likely have couple hoses under the Y pipe, pop out of their retaining holders, but you can pop them back in once car is cold). Once separated, you will have space to see the TB valve and put straw into space to spray (I covered the crack with rag to keep as much flow as I can and avoid errors). This bypasses MAF, sprays under TB valve too. |
Originally Posted by ciaka
(Post 4815774)
Looks like it is normal for the throttle body not to be open at this rpm. I looked at other cars too and same thing. The throttle body stays closed, so you spray the cleaner at lower edge of the valve, and you will see the cleaner disappear under there. Short bursting until all liquid is gone out of the bottle.
I found it much easier to bend the straw in two places. ONE: About 2 inches from spray end of straw, bend up to about 90 degrees. TWO: About one inch from the edge of straw going into can. Bend down about 90 degrees. You will result in having a straw that will point at the crack between throttle body valve and the TB casing. The other bend will make sure the can is pretty much upright. For those who do not do mechanical stuff often, align dimples of lock pins on throttle body, with the fat parts of their channels (see my starter removal thread for pics). Once dimples alighed, you can use flat screwdriver to gently push pins up to remove. Then grab with both hands, and while you rotate side to side, you pull towards front of car. The TB will separate from intake (you will likely have couple hoses under the Y pipe, pop out of their retaining holders, but you can pop them back in once car is cold). Once separated, you will have space to see the TB valve and put straw into space to spray (I covered the crack with rag to keep as much flow as I can and avoid errors). This bypasses MAF, sprays under TB valve too. Also I know you mentioned in the other thread spraying the turbo intakes (not the right term), did you end up doing it? curious to see if you did and the effects. After a week, I can undoubtedly say my car idles smoother, and is peppier. Will do this once more before my next oil change to ensure they are clean. Next up, engine flush before oil change with motul and Cerratec, all recommended by Alex! |
Did not notice any smoke but I was not looking for it. I am sure if deposits get broken down, there would be smoke so I am sure smoke would be normal.
I was not the one who sprayed into turbo intakes...it was Normalfellow. I did not spray in there, you have to be under car to be doing that. Good job. Take care of the car and it will take care of you.
Originally Posted by murci930
(Post 4815776)
Did you get some smoke on startup after the hour heat soak? I did when I did it on mine and my dad's jaguar, just wanted to make sure it was normal.
Also I know you mentioned in the other thread spraying the turbo intakes (not the right term), did you end up doing it? curious to see if you did and the effects. After a week, I can undoubtedly say my car idles smoother, and is peppier. Will do this once more before my next oil change to ensure they are clean. Next up, engine flush before oil change with motul and Cerratec, all recommended by Alex! |
Ciaka! Thank you for the extra instructions... Also, how was your experience? Had a Honda civic with a cel and this spray actually cured it, haha.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...e7e97fb709.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...722f326574.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...ce42fb0af2.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...2124cdb6e4.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...d6dbb879d9.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...1776febb1d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...e88766e8b0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...fffe50fa3d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...c744634730.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...8ae0042fd4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...0e644fcf8b.jpg So here's a little update.... After doing this treatment, I had to pull off the intake manifold anyways and went to town with manual cleaning. I was going to pull out the walnut blaster, but it was not necessary. I got another bottle of the CRC valve cleaner and used it to soak th valves in the solution overnight. Then had a drill with nylon brush to scrub off the residual bulk of the carbon... A second treatment of the intake valve cleaner would have done the same thing... here are a few before and after pics... |
what a difference that is.
I wonder if I do this a couple times in a row, if will clean as well. |
This looks like a great idea.
I just bought a 2014 Turbo with 39k miles on it and why not try this. I do notice at idle the RPM bounces around a bit (not huge but some) and maybe intake value cleaning would be useful. I feel like the throttle could be a bit better on this car, as I drove other Pan turbos and the all felt a bit different in throttle response. My engine is obviously different than the writeup/thread and have not found engine diagrams yet that shows MAS, etc. My MAS looks to be more metal and not sure how I would open it up to spray into. I don't want to foul any sensors by doing this. Anyone try this on a 2014 turbo yet or suggestions? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...81237fb28.jpeg |
Your mass airflow sensor (called MAF) should be located in exact same spot as other 2010-2014 Panamera turbo cars. It is located as part #8 on diagram I attached - post 12 of this thread HERE.
To disconnect, remove the 2 pins holding the intake to throttle body (do not keep twisting or you will break the little lock tabs, if you feel resistance, twist in opposite direction to align dimples, then pull straight out. Then, gently using both hands, grab y intake and pull off (some hosed under it will pop out of placement so if you want to see what goes where after, look under y pipe first, take a pic, then pull off. Then you will have way to insert straw in front of the butterfly (my next post below will have update o how I did it next). Straight forward. I found the rpm needle shake pretty much went away after single treatment.
Originally Posted by Kerch
(Post 4821684)
This looks like a great idea.
I just bought a 2014 Turbo with 39k miles on it and why not try this. I do notice at idle the RPM bounces around a bit (not huge but some) and maybe intake value cleaning would be useful. I feel like the throttle could be a bit better on this car, as I drove other Pan turbos and the all felt a bit different in throttle response. My engine is obviously different than the writeup/thread and have not found engine diagrams yet that shows MAS, etc. My MAS looks to be more metal and not sure how I would open it up to spray into. I don't want to foul any sensors by doing this. Anyone try this on a 2014 turbo yet or suggestions? |
I made 2nd treatment using this spray, and used different method which I believe does better job cleaning.
Only drawback of this method is that you will throw a code, so you should have diagnostic tool to clear the code before you go ahead and use the method. My new method: - warm up car to normal operating temperature - Remove lock pins by lining up lock tabs, pulling pins straight up, out - pull y pipe off the throttle body (hoses underneath will dislodge so be aware how things wire up when you put things back together after all done and cool). - using fingers or long plastic tool, push on top part of throttle body butterfly valve (top half pushed into the intake towards driver compartment) - disconnect straw from the spray bottle - while pushing on valve gently to make a small opening at top, between valve and throttle body wall, insert the end of straw past the butterfly valve so when you sprayt, the spray goes past the valve. - attach the spray bottle to straw (helps to make a 90 degree bend in straw, about 2 inches away from outer end of it), and make sure the bottle is upside down - increase rpms in car to about 2k (I used a thick pipe against seat, used seat adjust to make it press on throttle to about 2k rpm - place cloth of some sort around the space between y pipe and throttle body (plug up any space opened due to separation), helps to keep pressure as much as possible - use short bursts to spray in contents of spray bottle into car (will take you about 5 minutes or so to spray it all in) - after contents sprayed out, remove rpm mechanism, let idle for few seconds, then press throttle to about 3k rpm few times, then let idle for a minute - turn car off - reassemble y pipe to put all things back into place (except hoses under y pipe - do that after engine is cooled down) - use diagnostic software to clear all errors (this will turn off your CEL that gets thrown due to throttle body valve open at start) - one hour later, take car for highway drive about 20 minutes I noticed a strong smell when doing this. This was the smell of the gunk being worked on by sprayed in chemicals. I dont know if mpg improved, waiting for about 1500 miles to compare with pre treatment numbers. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by ciaka
(Post 4821748)
Your mass airflow sensor (called MAF) should be located in exact same spot as other 2010-2014 Panamera turbo cars. It is located as part #8 on diagram I attached - post 12 of this thread HERE.
To disconnect, remove the 2 pins holding the intake to throttle body (do not keep twisting or you will break the little lock tabs, if you feel resistance, twist in opposite direction to align dimples, then pull straight out. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...49bd2a803.jpeg |
Look at image I added in post #12 of this thread.
the pins are #10, the y pipe us #6 on the image. pins have tabs at one end. To remove you must align those tabs with openings that will allow them through when you pull up. If you dont align you will break tabs off and pins will vibrate out of place over time. under y pipe there are vacuum hoses attached to line guides that secure them. When you pull off the y pipe, those hoses will dislodge. Make sure how it all looks below y pipe so you can put it all back same way, after car done |
This might help put it all into place for you.
|
This is the CRC instructions I just found last night:
I found a Porsche product/part # but seems discontinued: 000 043 206 89, to be mixed with fuel, the images I could find of it show it's a 100 mL can.... |
Originally Posted by jzchen
(Post 4827006)
This is the CRC instructions I just found last night:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcVDZAauO88 I found a Porsche product/part # but seems discontinued: 000 043 206 89, to be mixed with fuel, the images I could find of it show it's a 100 mL can.... Mixing with fuel doesn't help a direct injection engine as the fuel is added below the valve, this is why they coke up (no fuel to clean the valve) |
Originally Posted by stealthn
(Post 4827010)
Mixing with fuel doesn't help a direct injection engine as the fuel is added below the valve, this is why they coke up (no fuel to clean the valve)
The owners manual seems to imply it solves the problem, but the BASF pages I could find on it does not show intake valve cleaning on a direct injection motor, they stealthily put a picture of a port injected motor! I’m noticing a slightly rough idle so may need to do this with the CRC product as I bought two as instructed.... |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:10 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands