Hey Guys, Wanted to share with you all, especially those with the V8's and Turbos. If you got at least 40k miles on your car and havent done this, I highly recommend it as a combined item when doing your oil change. Especially if you have a bit of rough idle or suffering from poor gas economy, this will make a significant difference. Not only are you cleaning your intake valves, but you are simultaneously cleaning your throttle body plate as well which is typically covered in some carbon build up. The product is extremely safe and easy to use.


Background Info: 2010 Porsche Panamera TT, w/ 107k miles, and valves were never treated EVER... With the failed Air oil seperator, after replacement, it was logical to tackle the carbon build up from the blow by of the oil that passes through the failed air oil seperator, which gets recirculated right back into the intake manifold. These valves and ports were BEYOND caked up and it blew my mind... Im going to have to follow up with another treatment to get it completely clean clean, but wanted to share with you the results.

Directions:

-remove two plastic pins that hold the y-pipe onto thethrottle boddy.
-slide the ypipe off of the throttle body just a tad, by tilting the top of the pipe off just slightly. You want the Map sensor to still detect flow while you are spraying downstream into the throttle body in short spurts @ 2500 RPM until the entire bottle is out....
-Let the chemicals then heat soak into the valves which makes the hard carbon build up into a paste like material
-after an hour, start up the car again... You may have a slight extended crank at first, but it will turn usually on second try
- key part to this is to take the car onto the highway and drive at a constant 70mph+ so that the high velocity of the air flowing through the ports will blow out the carbon build up for a good 15 minutes..
- when you get back home, let the car idle for another 5 minutes.. during this time, you will notice a significant improvement in idle and engine smoothness.
-Do a throttle reset/relearn, and you will have a very responsive throttle.
1. Switch the ignition on for 1 minute without starting the engine.
Do not actuate the accelerator pedal (for instance, make sure
that there is not a carpet pressing on the pedal).
2. Switch off ignition for at least 10 seconds.
The following conditions must also be observed, otherwise learning
is not possible:
-Vehicle is stationary
-Battery positive voltage between 10 V and 16 V
-Engine temperature between 5 °C and 100 °C
-Intake air temperature between 10 °C and 100 °C


-Also to note, the full effects of the treatment is fully found after 7-8 ays of driving... The chemical PEA binds to the carbon and continuous to work for the next couple of days, further removing more gunk.

 

Thanks Alex, what is the procedure for a throttle reset?

 

Good Call Doug... Here is the directions and also, I re-edited the original post to include the directions for the throttle reset/relearn.

 

Hey Alex- is your video before or after your cleaning?

Also for the edification of others it would help to detail that the intake manifold should not be disassembled as in the video, but the car should be running while you remove the Y pipe and start spraying. It would also be helpful for anyone going to do this to have the Durametric handy as the car will likely throw codes during this process.

 

How do you not foul the MAFs by introduction of this clearer?

 

I just ordered this, thanks I figured with 53k miles I should give it a try

 

This video is after the process without even touching it. Yeah, good point... Ill do a more elaborate explanation and re-edit....

MAF sensors- there are two MAF sensors on that panamera. The first is on the y-pipe and the second one inside the intake manifold.. The only maf sensor to be careful of is the first maf sensor in the y-pipe. The MAF sensor in the intake manifold is designed slightly different and is able to get fouled up and not give any incorrect readings..

Let me reconfirm that this does not cause any check engine lights whatsoever....

 

is the inner one a MAP sensor? big difference between the MAF and MAP

 

Waiting on my can to arrive tomorrow night, will be doing it this weekend. I am @124k so there should be a massive difference. OP pm'd me and gave me some great advice/pointers.

 

You know what Doug? Im glad you mentioned that...

MAF: Mass Air Flow Sensor- the sensor on the Y-pipe(Sensitive Tip)
MAP: Manifold(intake) Absolute Pressure Sensor - on the backside of the intake manifold(Chemical resistant)

 

I'll try the Throttle Reset, thanks! I'd love to "see" how good the valve cleaning is. Here's what I had done: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ut-shells.html

 

I assume the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor is #8 on this pic. In the parts catalog it is referred to as 'Sensor, boost pressure', with Part Number 996 606 180 00.
If someone can confirm this is in fact MAF, it will clarify greatly.
Different from Cayenne turbo where there are 2 MAF sensors, in air tubes to the turbos.
Thank you.




I added additional info for alternative method of spray, if you have way to clear CEL errors. Info in post # 24 HERE.

 

Thank you for putting this together. Once you have the 'after' pics, it will be awesome to see them here for comparison. I do plan few treatments, maybe 3 or so, over time, to get the gunk out.

 

Just sprayed and got back from the quick highway drive... WHAT A DIFFERENCE,
Before I get into the car, couple of things to note for those, like myself, who are on the unexperienced end of mechanic spectrum.
1. The y-pipe will take a bit of work to get off, it took me about 10 minutes to wiggle it off.
2. This seems obvious but this is a little messy so be prepared for a little splatter coming from the can.
3. Also have towels or heat resistant gloves as the location of the y-pipe along with revving at 2500 rpm makes thing pretty hot, pretty quickly.

I will probably do this again after my next oil change to ensure it is clean.
The one comment I had was I noticed the TB was not opening, is that normal at 2500 rpm? I ran the car to proper operating temps prior to taking off the Y-Pipe as well, maybe that had something to do with it.

After I let it sit for an hour, got in the car, did a TB reset, then headed for the highway. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The car, even in normal was quicker and the motor was so smooth. I hit 90 effortlessly (before it was effortless but now it's even better) but slowed down to 70/75 per Alex's instructions. It's about 30 degrees out so the air was cold. On the way back I pushed it a bit, and it felt quicker and much more confident. I also noticed induction noises were a little louder, sounding much more crisp and healthy. I know it is colder out so obviously they would be louder but this is not the first cold day year so I have heard the how the car sounds but then again it could just be in my head. After coming home and letting the car's idle, it is undoubtedly smoother, and very happy with the results! thanks to Alex for recommending!!!

 

Murci, Man, I am so glad you had some faith and bit the bullet to do it. Great job man, and I greatly appreciate you confirming my findings... What you experienced is exactly what I experienced as well, to the T. I'd definitely add this in with my routing maintenance before each oil change to keep the valves and intake ports gunk free... Just wait till the end of the upcoming week.. The more you drive it, the better it gets.

Also, you are spot on with the "induction" sound being louder... Every car that ive done this too, you can hear a noticable difference in exhaust tone.... You can definitely tell there is a significantly more air volume coming in...

My butt dyno says this treatment prolly gives you(or get back) +10HP, what do you think? hahaha